Tractor Sizing First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice!

   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice! #1  

markfsanderson

New member
Joined
Jun 13, 2020
Messages
8
Location
New Baltimore, VA
Tractor
1948 (est) Ferguson TO-20 and John Deere D100
Greetings,
New to the area, purchased a horse farm here in NOVA. A fully functioning Ferguson TO-20 tractor was included in the deal - but it has no loader. I've looked at JD, Kubota, RK, and Kioti and it seems like these tractors have a great price/performance. Given that, I've read threads where the CK series is not considered enough tractor for handling hay bales. If not, why not? Here is my criteria below . . . any help in narrowing down tractor choice would be greatly appreciated.

Tractor Purchasing Criteria

Environment:
10 acre horse farm in Faquier County North Virginia (about 40 miles west of DC)
3 pastures of approximately 2 acres each
5 stable/2 tack room barn
30 foot machine shed/run-in
1/4 acre pond
Land mostly flat except for slight decline towards pond/woods
moderate size house with smallish yard; land mostly dedicated to horses, woods and pond
8' gates are minimum size

Needs
Using a front loader bale spike carry a single 900+ lb measuring 4'x5' hay bale and lift it 5 feet safely to clear hay bale feeders and unload F-350 Truck
Front end loader carry at least 1000lb of gravel, soil and etc.
Can mount a front third function and use it on grapple
In future mount a backhoe (not sold on it yet, but maybe in the future?)
(added)
Brush hogging
Dragging the horse ring
Pulling carts with up to 1000lbs of firewood and etc


Wants
USB/12V/110v charger/inverter output
cup holder
adjustable steering wheel
Nice Seat w/Arm Rest

Questions
What is minimum comfortable size for above needs?
What are rear remotes used for?
Do the grapple kits include the 3rd function installed?
Will R14 tires work for this environment?


Mark
 
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   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice! #2  
The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Neophyte tractor operators are often intimidated by instability of tractors with small front wheels and large rear wheels, therefore frequently purchase tractors too light, too small for long term satisfaction. ((Tractors seem to shrink after about twenty hours of operating experience.))

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel ballast fourth.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR
 
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   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice! #3  
New to the area. Purchased a ten acre horse farm in Northern Virginia.

Environment:
10 acre horse farm in Faquier County North Virginia (about 40 miles west of DC)
3 pastures of approximately 2 acres each
5 stable/2 tack room barn
30 foot machine shed/run-in
1/4 acre pond
Land mostly flat.

Needs
Using a front loader bale spike carry a single 900+ lb measuring 4'x5' hay bale and lift it 5 feet safely to clear hay bale feeders and unload F-350 Truck
Front end loader carry at least 1000lb of gravel, soil and etc.
Can mount a front third function and use it on grapple
In future mount a backhoe (not sold on it yet, but maybe in the future?)

The tasks you have listed are more suited to an all-terrain Skid Steer (or Compact Track Loader variant) rather than a tractor.

Skid Steers and CTLs have more powerful Loaders than tractors, rear engines to counterbalance front end loads, and no narrow, rotating/steering front axle, which lead to tractor rollovers when tractors lift heavy loads. Skid Steer provides more loader lift in a much more compact machine but you give up the tractor's Three Point Hitch.

VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tractor+versus+skid+steer







To move and lift Round Bales five feet numerous experienced operators use a 4,000 pound bare weight tractor.

To move and lift 900 - 1,200 pound Round Bales nine feet SAFELY most would recommend a 5,000 pound bare weight tractor.

VIDEOS: Kubota MX Series VS. Kubota M Series - YouTube

Kubota BX-B-L-MX-M | What series is right for you? - YouTube


Some use Pallet Forks to move round bales and perform grapple carrying tasks. Ten acres with a home and three pastures should not demand a grapple for residual 3-4 acres. I prefer tractor simplicity whenever possible. Pallet Forks are simple.

VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=pallet+forks+vs+grapple
 
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   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice! #4  
Kubota MX........:)
 
   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice! #5  
^^^ yes, an MX series is what I recommend as well.
 
   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice! #6  
Questions
1) What are rear remotes used for?
2) Do the grapple kits include the 3rd function installed?
3) Will R14 tires work for this environment?

1) Rear remotes are used to hydraulically power attachments which will only be cycled intermittantly.
One PAIR required for each function.

Box Blade scarifiers/rippers up/down

hydraulically powered Three Point Hitch - Top Link and right Lifting Rod. ( Box Blade adjustments.) (Rear/Angle Blade adjustments.)

VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tractor+rear+remote+ports


2) No


3) Yes - however R14s are four ply tires. R4/industrial tires are tougher six ply tires which outfit around 80% of compact tractors. Flats on tractors are misery.

Skid Steers come with ten ply tires in most cases.
 
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   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice! #7  
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   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice!
  • Thread Starter
#8  
The tasks you have listed are more suited to an all-terrain Skid Steer (or Compact Track Loader variant) rather than a tractor.

Skid Steers and CTLs have more powerful Loaders than tractors, rear engines to counterbalance front end loads, and no narrow, rotating/steering front axle, which lead to tractor rollovers when tractors lift heavy loads. Skid Steer provides more loader lift in a much more compact machine but you give up the tractor's Three Point Hitch.
...

Thanks for the advice . . . My TO-20 can still work (for now) and should be able to do the work that requires a PTO ( brush hogging ). I'll need to edit my question to include that requirement. Your advice of buying heavier is well taken, I've had similar advice (size it and double it) from others as well.

Mark
 
   / First Time Tractor Buyer . . . need some advice! #9  
Wants
USB/12V/110v charger/inverter output
cup holder
adjustable steering wheel
Nice Seat w/Arm Rest

Questions
What is minimum comfortable size for above needs?
What are rear remotes used for?
Do the grapple kits include the 3rd function installed?
Will R14 tires work for this environment?

The wants may quickly drive you to a cabbed premium line of tractors (e.g. Kubota Gand L or Kubota M4 lines on the smaller end).

As for minimum size I'd think the Kubota Grand L's (or L4701),MX, M4, or even M5 or something in the John Deere 3, 4, or 5 families (or equivalent from other brands) would likely do the job with the larger sizes being more comfortable/suitable. If you're driving around with bales on the machine I wouldn't recommend a skid steer or CTL as they generally tend to be slower and a rougher ride than tractors. A compact telehandler would probably be the better non-tractor option - particularly if you'll be stacking the bales for storage (though a compact wheel loader could also do the job).

Rear remotes permit use of external hydraulic cylinders/swtches or hydraulic motors (depending on type of rear remote). Most (but not all) implements with hydraulic motors will have flow recommendations/minimums that are beyond most small compact tractors - the most notable exception being hydraulic augers which will frequently have different models to support different minimum/maximum hydraulic flow rates.

Note sure what's meant by grapple kits(?), but having a 3rd function installed with the loader will permit use of loader attachments that have additional hydraulic functionality (e.g. grapples, augers) without running hoses to the rear remotes or installing a separate diverter valve.

If you're not sold on a backhoe it's probably worth looking at renting a compact/mini excavator (when needed) rather than buying a backhoe for the tractor.

Just my :2cents:
 

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