first time changing hydraulic fluid

[Grumpycat]

DPF does not keep soot out of the air, it simply makes the soot particles smaller. Collects big ones, then when the DPF "regenerates" the soot is burned again into smaller C2's.

 

[Williy]

$199.99 for something to catch oil???
I used to have the bottom of an oil drum
that I used to catch oil and it was FREE!
Also the pump that fits on a 5 gal bucket
nothing but bad news it RUSTS! I have a
large plastic tube and gravity works for me!
I'm retired and some of us don't make the
bucks like some of you guys that buy the
big dollar items. Also we are not politicians
who get the same pay working or retired and
get the nice big increases in pay! When I hit
the lotto maybe then I can get all this fancy
stuff???? nnaaaaaawww don't think so!

willy

 

[Williy]

Tranny fluid will get dark when its bad. When
my truck tranny fluid starts to get dark I change it.
I always change filters when I change fluids! YUP!
gonna use this stuff on my wooden fence the sun
beating on them there like a sponge that's been laying out in the desert! A little dry!

willy

 

[rScotty]

DPF does not keep soot out of the air, it simply makes the soot particles smaller. Collects big ones, then when the DPF "regenerates" the soot is burned again into smaller C2's.

I think that's right about the smaller particles, but not as sure about it being C2. But honestly I haven't looked that deeply into the Tier IV regulations because we plan to keep our older equipment. After all, the older tractors are pretty much infinitely rebuildable.

If DPF simply made the soot particles smaller, wouldn't that make it more reactive rather than less? That is usually the case. If carbon soot is an exception it may be unique. Few other things work that way.

So if Tier IV really is based on soot particle size, then what's the advantage of DPF? Is reducing particle size to something undefined simply a way around the regulations instead of being an advantage to the atmosphere and health?

Maybe someone will chime in here that knows more about the science behind Tier IV. It does seem to have popular acceptance.
rScotty

 

[MinnesotaEric]

The first thing you do is roll your tractor up on four short 4x4 or 4x6 cribbing to get a little height for your catch buckets.

Then you get out your 30mm socket (or whatever size your drain plug is) and you tweek off the drain plug for the hydro-transmission right above your buckets. Then for every gallon of fluid that comes out, you count like the auctioneer song,"35, 45, 65, $80 or more...."

 

[Cameron Smith]

If your tractor has remote hydraulics, get a male end and put a length of hose on it and install it on the pressure side. Let the tractor idle and have the hydraulic pump push the oil through the hose outlet into a bucket. When you can get no more from the running hydraulic pump, you can pull the drain plugs out and catch what little there is left. Clean and simple.

 

[fried1765]

If your tractor has remote hydraulics, get a male end and put a length of hose on it and install it on the pressure side. Let the tractor idle and have the hydraulic pump push the oil through the hose outlet into a bucket. When you can get no more from the running hydraulic pump, you can pull the drain plugs out and catch what little there is left. Clean and simple.

Yup!
Dats da way I does it!

 

[ericm979]

I'd rather follow the factory procedue and not risk damaging pumps including the HST by running them dry.

 

[rScotty]

I'd rather follow the factory procedue and not risk damaging pumps including the HST by running them dry.

Yep, me too. Same way I feel. There are a couple of things to think about...

In the shop manual for our Kubota it looks like the HST will run dry before the rest of the hydraulics. That makes draining by pumping a non-starter for me.

Still, we have an old geared tractor it might work on. For that one I have to ask myself if I am willing to risk a hydraulic pump. And I might if mine was getting old and low pressure anyway and due to be replaced. Then I might give that method a try. It sure does sound like a cleaner way to go when you have to deal with spilling ten to twenty gallons of fluid. Much less chance of a spill.

But even so, I'd probably draw the line at 90% of the fluid, and the pumping method leaves some fluid in the bottom of the sump anyway which is going to come out when I change the filters. So I even if I pump until it seems dry and risk the hydraulic pumps, I still have to drain the remainder out the sump plug into a pan to throw away with the filters.

If done carefully to less than all the fluid it's less chance of a big spill in return for a chance of mechanical damage to the pumps. YMMV depending on the tractor.

 

[ericm979]

With a good drain pan I don't spill. I originally was going to use 5 gallon buckets but they would not fit under the tractor so I had to get the pan. I didn't think about raising the tractor on boards. I'm glad I got the drain pan because swapping heavy 5 gallon buckets while 10 gallons of oil is pouring out would guarantee a mess.

This is the one I got:

FloTool 42008MI Hopkins 42008 Crude Control Oil Drain Pan - 58 Quart