JSharp
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 508
- Location
- Central Illinois. No, not Chicago.
- Tractor
- IH 404, Cub GT 2554
My 2554 has about 10 hours so I decided to do the first service today and add the Kohler oil cooler I purchased for it. I figured while it's raining here I'd get all that done, plus I wanted to check everything before it goes to the dealer tomorrow to have the "steering service advisory" done.
Pulled the deck to check and grease everything and the zerk on the main belt tensioner won't take grease. It looks like someone hit it with something the wrong way when they installed it. It'll have to be replaced.
Managed to get grease into all the others but the zerk on the left front deck wheel pulled out when I pulled the gun. I guess it'll need replaced too. These zerks will give the dealer something to do tomorrow after he adds the new zerk for the steering. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Changing the engine oil and filter and the trans filter was easy. New Wix filters, 2 quarts of Rotella 10W-30 in the engine, and a little top up Drive System Fluid in the trans. No problem. The oil drain setup is very nice and with the clear hose you get you can do it without spilling oil all over the machine. Nice.
The oil cooler install OTOH was PITA. To install the oil cooler you have to remove the engine shroud, cut a hole in it for cooling air from the fan to pass though the cooler, and install a couple of plastic fasteners that the cooler then mounts to on the shroud and shroud mounting plate. All that wouldn't be too bad except you can't remove the shroud without pulling all 4 motor mount bolts and raising the engine about 3/4 of an inch. There is one shroud securing screw on the bottom right that will not clear the right frame rail. You can get it loose, but not all the way out.
I'd love to meet the genius that thought that was OK. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
I might have fixed it for future shroud removal by slotting the hole to the edge so all I should have to do is loosen the screw and slide the shroud back. If it'll go back with the engine in place. It seems there is also some interference as the shroud slides back between the shroud and the hardware behind and below it. Hopefully I'll be able to flex it around and get it off when I need to since Cub wants you to remove the shroud and clean everything back there every 100 hours.
Overall I guess doing all this stuff wasn't too bad but I have to wonder if anyone at Cub has actually tried to do the things set out in their maintenance procedures. Or, maybe they want to see their dealers make $$ doing what should be simple service work... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Pulled the deck to check and grease everything and the zerk on the main belt tensioner won't take grease. It looks like someone hit it with something the wrong way when they installed it. It'll have to be replaced.
Managed to get grease into all the others but the zerk on the left front deck wheel pulled out when I pulled the gun. I guess it'll need replaced too. These zerks will give the dealer something to do tomorrow after he adds the new zerk for the steering. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Changing the engine oil and filter and the trans filter was easy. New Wix filters, 2 quarts of Rotella 10W-30 in the engine, and a little top up Drive System Fluid in the trans. No problem. The oil drain setup is very nice and with the clear hose you get you can do it without spilling oil all over the machine. Nice.
The oil cooler install OTOH was PITA. To install the oil cooler you have to remove the engine shroud, cut a hole in it for cooling air from the fan to pass though the cooler, and install a couple of plastic fasteners that the cooler then mounts to on the shroud and shroud mounting plate. All that wouldn't be too bad except you can't remove the shroud without pulling all 4 motor mount bolts and raising the engine about 3/4 of an inch. There is one shroud securing screw on the bottom right that will not clear the right frame rail. You can get it loose, but not all the way out.
I'd love to meet the genius that thought that was OK. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
I might have fixed it for future shroud removal by slotting the hole to the edge so all I should have to do is loosen the screw and slide the shroud back. If it'll go back with the engine in place. It seems there is also some interference as the shroud slides back between the shroud and the hardware behind and below it. Hopefully I'll be able to flex it around and get it off when I need to since Cub wants you to remove the shroud and clean everything back there every 100 hours.
Overall I guess doing all this stuff wasn't too bad but I have to wonder if anyone at Cub has actually tried to do the things set out in their maintenance procedures. Or, maybe they want to see their dealers make $$ doing what should be simple service work... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif