First run of the TS1910

[Skinnymc]

I took my TS1910 up to my 49 acres in TN this weekend for its first real use and loved getting into the thick blackberrys and brush with the 4' brush cutter. I was very impressed with its performance and am very pleased I bought it. I also used the 5' scrape blade to work the road a little and knocked down a nice level spot in front of my shed.

I also started ran it with on a blend of 80% waste vegetable oil and 20% unleaded gasoline, a blend I used in my F350 for a while before going adding a heat exchanger to one of the tanks. The tractor ran great on the blend and the exhaust smelled wonderful.

I have been using WVO in my VW Passat TDI for the past three years and two years in my truck, so I was quite certain I wouldn't have any problems in the tractor since it is a much simpler and more rugged design than either of my diesel vehicles.

My next purchase will be a subsoiler and middlebuster to tear up the ground for my garden area. I have the matching Iseki tiller that I will then use once I initially break ground. I can't wait to get back up there at the end of the month and use it some more.

Alex McKinney

 

[Skinnymc]

I took my TS1910 up to my 49 acres in TN this weekend for its first real use and loved getting into the thick blackberrys and brush with the 4' brush cutter. I was very impressed with its performance and am very pleased I bought it. I also used the 5' scrape blade to work the road a little and knocked down a nice level spot in front of my shed.

I also started ran it with on a blend of 80% waste vegetable oil and 20% unleaded gasoline, a blend I used in my F350 for a while before going adding a heat exchanger to one of the tanks. The tractor ran great on the blend and the exhaust smelled wonderful.

I have been using WVO in my VW Passat TDI for the past three years and two years in my truck, so I was quite certain I wouldn't have any problems in the tractor since it is a much simpler and more rugged design than either of my diesel vehicles.

My next purchase will be a subsoiler and middlebuster to tear up the ground for my garden area. I have the matching Iseki tiller that I will then use once I initially break ground. I can't wait to get back up there at the end of the month and use it some more.

Alex McKinney

 

[Skinnymc]

Forgot to mention that I did try out the tractor briefly in the pasture where I keep my horses. The grassy pasture really needed a finish mower but it was a good test for the brush cutter although I spent a good 15 minutes pulling twisted grass off the PTO and driveshaft. Didn't have to worry about all that after cutting brambles and saplings in TN.

I did get some lifting of the front wheels in the pasture since I had no weight on the front end. I made a 100lb weight out of a plastic 5 gallon jug that vegetable oil comes in filled with concrete and imbedded with two pieces of bent rebar. Then I was able to just use the handle on to top of the jug to lift it and hang it on the front bumper with the rebar. I plan to make another weight before I go up again since I did feel the front end want to come up some when driving back up the hill from cutting down by my creek. After all that I want to make some rear wheel weights.

I have been thinking about getting a drawbar to pull some leftover logs and stumps from logging out of their piles to burn but am going to try chaining them to the base of my boom pole where it connects to the 3PH in the meantime. That should serve the same purpose as the drawbar in keeping the weight low and close the wheels.

The only other thing I used the tractor for last weekend was moving my popup camper around. Since I don't have a trailer ball or drawbar I just chained the camper hitch to the 3PH, lifted it up slightly and drove off. It worked great. I plan to strip down the camper and use the frame for a small trailer for hauling things like firewood around the farm. I have already pulled the bed frames out of it and made some bunk beds in my shelter out of those. I may just removed the top and keep the metal sidewalls on it for the trailer. I doesn't need to be fancy.

 

[Skinnymc]

Forgot to mention that I did try out the tractor briefly in the pasture where I keep my horses. The grassy pasture really needed a finish mower but it was a good test for the brush cutter although I spent a good 15 minutes pulling twisted grass off the PTO and driveshaft. Didn't have to worry about all that after cutting brambles and saplings in TN.

I did get some lifting of the front wheels in the pasture since I had no weight on the front end. I made a 100lb weight out of a plastic 5 gallon jug that vegetable oil comes in filled with concrete and imbedded with two pieces of bent rebar. Then I was able to just use the handle on to top of the jug to lift it and hang it on the front bumper with the rebar. I plan to make another weight before I go up again since I did feel the front end want to come up some when driving back up the hill from cutting down by my creek. After all that I want to make some rear wheel weights.

I have been thinking about getting a drawbar to pull some leftover logs and stumps from logging out of their piles to burn but am going to try chaining them to the base of my boom pole where it connects to the 3PH in the meantime. That should serve the same purpose as the drawbar in keeping the weight low and close the wheels.

The only other thing I used the tractor for last weekend was moving my popup camper around. Since I don't have a trailer ball or drawbar I just chained the camper hitch to the 3PH, lifted it up slightly and drove off. It worked great. I plan to strip down the camper and use the frame for a small trailer for hauling things like firewood around the farm. I have already pulled the bed frames out of it and made some bunk beds in my shelter out of those. I may just removed the top and keep the metal sidewalls on it for the trailer. I doesn't need to be fancy.

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

"I also started ran it with on a blend of 80% waste vegetable oil and 20% unleaded gasoline, a blend I used in my F350 for a while before going adding a heat exchanger to one of the tanks. The tractor ran great on the blend and the exhaust smelled wonderful."

Sounds fantastic! What does it do to the motors? Do you service more often? Please tell more - Maybe a new thread?

Cheers,

Chris.

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

"I also started ran it with on a blend of 80% waste vegetable oil and 20% unleaded gasoline, a blend I used in my F350 for a while before going adding a heat exchanger to one of the tanks. The tractor ran great on the blend and the exhaust smelled wonderful."

Sounds fantastic! What does it do to the motors? Do you service more often? Please tell more - Maybe a new thread?

Cheers,

Chris.

 

[Skinnymc]

This all was briefly discussed in the "Oil, Fuels..." forum.

Simply, any diesel engine will run on vegetable oil. That is what they were originally designed for back in 1898. That being said, modern day injection pumps and injectors have been designed to use a less viscous fuel and cold vegetable oil is not good for either of these components.

This is solved easily be either converting the oil into biodiesel (same viscosity of diesel fuel), heating the oil to about 150-160 degrees F, or blending with other substances to thin it out.

Making biodiesel is the most complex but best option. There are no changes needed to the vehicle.

Heating the oil is nearly as efficient as biodiesel, except that you must first start on biodiesel or diesel, warm up the vehicle, the switch over the heated oil. The heating of the oil is provided through a heat exchanger tied to the coolant system, or electric heat. This option basically requires an alternate fuel system but filtering the oil is much simpler than making biodiesel.

The last option involves thinning out the oil with another substance. In more modern computer controlled vehicles I would not recommend this. The components that could be damaged are too expensive and too sensitive the changes. On the larger and older diesel engines this is not so much a problem. These fuel systems are rugged and loose, with parts costing much less. This option is best suited for warmer climates since blending will only get the oil so thin. Northern winter climates would gel the oil, making it impossible to flow.

In three years running waste vegetable oil, I have had no ill effects on my vehicles.

Now that I am on this forum, I hope to contribute more on this topic.

Alex McKinney
www.nativerenewables.com

 

[Skinnymc]

This all was briefly discussed in the "Oil, Fuels..." forum.

Simply, any diesel engine will run on vegetable oil. That is what they were originally designed for back in 1898. That being said, modern day injection pumps and injectors have been designed to use a less viscous fuel and cold vegetable oil is not good for either of these components.

This is solved easily be either converting the oil into biodiesel (same viscosity of diesel fuel), heating the oil to about 150-160 degrees F, or blending with other substances to thin it out.

Making biodiesel is the most complex but best option. There are no changes needed to the vehicle.

Heating the oil is nearly as efficient as biodiesel, except that you must first start on biodiesel or diesel, warm up the vehicle, the switch over the heated oil. The heating of the oil is provided through a heat exchanger tied to the coolant system, or electric heat. This option basically requires an alternate fuel system but filtering the oil is much simpler than making biodiesel.

The last option involves thinning out the oil with another substance. In more modern computer controlled vehicles I would not recommend this. The components that could be damaged are too expensive and too sensitive the changes. On the larger and older diesel engines this is not so much a problem. These fuel systems are rugged and loose, with parts costing much less. This option is best suited for warmer climates since blending will only get the oil so thin. Northern winter climates would gel the oil, making it impossible to flow.

In three years running waste vegetable oil, I have had no ill effects on my vehicles.

Now that I am on this forum, I hope to contribute more on this topic.

Alex McKinney
www.nativerenewables.com

 

[kayssupply]

If you don't try to till when the ground is rock hard you will be amazed at the results. You probably won't need the other implements. In the spring and fall I can till new ground 8"+ here in S Illinois clay. In the hot summer it just bounces up and down. I would bet a plow would be impossible to use this time of year also.

 

[kayssupply]

If you don't try to till when the ground is rock hard you will be amazed at the results. You probably won't need the other implements. In the spring and fall I can till new ground 8"+ here in S Illinois clay. In the hot summer it just bounces up and down. I would bet a plow would be impossible to use this time of year also.