first hydraulic fluid change thick and milky

[KWentling]

Sounds like you have it going your way. As far as synthetics goes, I use them in my diesel trucks for the cold starting properties. The little Kubota sleeps in a heated shop so it has dino oil in the engine but the SUDT in the transmission/hydraulics. My big tractor (1977 Case 1070) probably had never seen a day inside other then in for repairs before I owned it. It still resides outside 90% of the time. It has dino oil but doesn't see much use in the winter and I have a block heater on it so so starting isn't much of an issue. If you aren't going for extended oil drains or need the extreme weather properties, I personally don't see the need to spend the extra $$$ for synthetic engine oils. Modern oils are pretty darn good these days and how many people run something till it wears out such that synthetics superior wear properties would make a difference? Full time farmers who put on hundreds of hours in a year probably, but that doesn't include many here. Kind of the same deal for synthetics in transmissions. I use it because it flows better in the cold. I suppose there may be some advantages in efficiency and rolling resistance but I don't see that as a big factor. If it makes you feel good putting the best oil available in your tractor, by all means spend the extra for the synthetic. Nothing wrong with that. Right or wrong, that's how I see it.

Kim

 

[dex3361]

Thanks, when I checked the jar this morning there was no separation it looked brown with a billion microscopic bubbles in it. I left the old filter on and put in the 2.9gal the book said. But I guess they don't take into account the lines to FEL. I ended up putting approx. 3.5 gal in, because even after warm up with 2.9 it was low in the glass. I ran it for a while mowed some and drove into some dirt mounds and I seems to have it's strength back. I will mow tomorrow, use the FEL and the Backhoe and drain it again. The fluid I have been using Is from Atwoods here in town. It's like a TSC but not as clean. It says it is a trans/hydraulic fluid and it does specify on the back that it meets all AGCO & MF requirements, Permatran III. that is not the fluid I want to run it, this is just clean out. $26 for 5gal is a lot easier to waste on running and dumping.
It seems like so many shy away from the synthetics. Why is that? If I am supposedly going 250hrs between changed I want it to be good. I use synthetics in my cars. Is it a bad idea in small tractors?

The synthetic oils designed for your application would be a good fit for your tractor if (and I think it is) a Hydrostatic trans. The synthetic oil would require less warm up time especially in the winter. I don't know if you live in a warm or cold climate. If you live in a cold climate the synthetic would be my first choice. Keep in mind that you cant go wrong with the manufacturers recommended oil.

 

[fishkc10boom]

I live in southwest Oklahoma where my thermometer hits triple digits often this time of year. It will get cold a few times in the winter, teens or lower, but rare. I don't really plan on going for the extended oil changes. I think that would drive me nuts. I tried Mobil 1 once when it became popular. My wife nearly killed me when she found out I spent $5 a quart on oil, I was a 2 stripe Airman, broke before and after payday. But our little Chevy Cavalier went from 33mpg to 39mpg hwy, I was sold. When I changed to Royal Purple in my Dodge 4x4 Hemi I gained 2mpg and it runs cooler. I know there is a difference in cars and tractors, I just thought it would run smoother longer.