Finish for weathered table

[2LaneCruzer]

Here's a table I built a few years ago to hold my Big Green Egg. I finished with a polyurethane (spar varnish) meant for outdoor use, but the wood has faded considerably and now is a grey color, typical of unpainted and weathered wood. My question, is there a way to (a) restore some of the old color, and (b) finish it with something that will last?

 

[Wakey]

I have an acacia table with my Egg and it looks well used (it is!) considering it’s less than a year old.

Post a picture of the table, that might help someone offer a game plan.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

I have an acacia table with my Egg and it looks well used (it is!) considering it’s less than a year old.

Post a picture of the table, that might help someone offer a game plan.

Posting a picture not in my computer files is quite an ordeal, but I'll see what I can do.

 

[oosik]

Surely there is an oil stain that will restore some of the colors. Light sanding on exposed surfaces before any treatment could help also

 

[drssg]

Am I the only one who doesn't know what a Big Green Egg might be? That looks like a nicely built table.

If you own a smart phone, the TBN app simplifies the process if posting pictures.

 

[ponytug]

For varnish, all that I know to do is strip, sand and refinish.

For tables like yours, I prefer linseed or tung oil. It darkens over time, but it is food safe, and you can add more oil whenever you want. If you want the lighter color, varnish, and just plan on redoing the varnish each spring or two.

I think that looks like it is a great design for a table to go around a green egg. I am surprised though that the wood doesn't heat up.

All the best,

Peter

PS a green egg is a BBQ cooker/smoker.

 

[drssg]

PS a green egg is a BBQ cooker/smoker.

Ah, OK. I never heard that term before. Thank you.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

Here's a picture. The Egg sits on a slab of granite that I bought from a cabinet top place.

 

[civilian]

So is the first picture the original color as built and the second picture after a few years use? How muc time between pictures? Seems like the original varnish didn't hold up. Was it a quality brand. Might try a varnish used by the boating industry. They might have better additives for the weather abuse. I used a boat varnish on a dinning room table I built because I did not want to worry about water stains from sweating glasses. Has held up over 10 years, but this is inside the house. Love the original looks. Jon

 

[skipmarcy]

You can easily sand cedar back down to the original red color, the gray layer isn't usually very deep and it will look like new again. Be careful about breathing much cedar dust in as you sand.

True marine spar varnish is pricey but is what you need. It still won't be permanent but a good quality will last a lot longer.

 

[EddieWalker]

I would treat it just like the wood is done on boats, and use oil. The problem with oil is that you need to do it every year. Sometimes more. There are a lot of oils designed for wood and I'm not sure which to recommend. Some have tints to them, like Sherwin Williams clean oil stains, others are will just protect the wood and make it look nicer like Teak Oil or Danish Oil. But there are quite a few to chose from and sometimes the only way to find what works best for you is trial and error.

 

[Ford850]

I really like the bright color of the fresh wood, but I wouldn't fight nature on this. I like the weathered look too, and the gray patina it forms helps protect it long term. The wood will breathe, and the Eastern Redcedar is very resistant to decay. I would add some feet to the bare wood, as you can see the algae close to the bottom where it's pulling moisture into the end grain.

 

[Wakey]

I’d sand it down with an orbital sander and reapply a quality marine spar. Also, get a cover if you don’t already have one.

Mine gets no sun but I cover it anyway.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

Thanks guys; I appreciate the advice. I think I will sand it down and see how it looks (good job for my Grandsons). I don't think I want to have to re-do it every year, so I think I'll take the advice and get a high quality boat varnish...I'll ask the Sherwin Williams guys for a recommendation. The table is about 10 years old, and it sits outside, so it's gotten plenty of this Oklahoma weather. It was fun to make.

And yeah, I've been thinking about putting another set of wheels on the rear; it's getting to be a real beast for me to move around. That should stop the mold.

Thanks again,
Dennis

 

[Egon]

I’d suggest a marble or granite table top. Maybe even concrete.

If not wipe it down good with alcohol, apply Howard’s Restore a Finish and sand lightly. Apply stain or dye, more alcohol, more Howard’s and say Tung Oil. Polish it and add heat with heat gun. Repeat till your satisfied and then add a layer of paraffin wax. Be prepared to touch it up every year.

 

[2LaneCruzer]

I’d sand it down with an orbital sander and reapply a quality marine spar. Also, get a cover if you don’t already have one.

Mine gets no sun but I cover it anyway.

Good idea! My wife...Sharn Jean is a seamstress!

 

[2LaneCruzer]

I’d suggest a marble or granite table top. Maybe even concrete.

If not wipe it down good with alcohol, apply Howard’s Restore a Finish and sand lightly. Apply stain or dye, more alcohol, more Howard’s and say Tung Oil. Polish it and add heat with heat gun. Repeat till your satisfied and then add a layer of paraffin wax. Be prepared to touch it up every year.

I think I'll skip the granite top; it's too heavy now...but the wax is a good idea; I've used Beeswax on some cutting boards in the past.

 

[kenmbz]

Epifanes is what I used on my pool bar. Needs lots of coats, starting with thinned to 50%, then to 30%, then to 20%.
With drying and light sand between coats.
prep is everything, I missed a tiny spot towards the bartender side and it turned grey. Rest of bar looks perfect after being left overwinter with now cover and many feet of snow.
Don't know how well it takes high heat, so would need something to sit between Egg and wood surface?

 

[2LaneCruzer]

Epifanes is what I used on my pool bar. Needs lots of coats, starting with thinned to 50%, then to 30%, then to 20%.
With drying and light sand between coats.
prep is everything, I missed a tiny spot towards the bartender side and it turned grey. Rest of bar looks perfect after being left overwinter with now cover and many feet of snow.
Don't know how well it takes high heat, so would need something to sit between Egg and wood surface?

That's pretty close to the way I finish a gun stock...it really puts a nice finish on wood, but a lot of work.
I installed a piece of granite for the egg to sit on, works great. ou can see it in the first photo. The sides of the egg don't get that hot.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I am too impatient to do that much sanding. I would probably take it apart, run it through the jointer, seal the whole thing up while it was in pieces, and put it back together.

Alternatively, you could do what people do with decks. Pressure wash, stain, and seal annually. There is no way to permanently finish outdoor wood.