Finally.... TN70DA

   / Finally.... TN70DA #1  

Rowski

Veteran Member
Joined
May 18, 2000
Messages
1,474
Location
North Central Vermont, Jay Peak Area
Tractor
2004 New Holland TN70DA with 32LC loader, 2000 New Holland 2120 with Curtis cab, 7309 loader
Finally after a long wait its here! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif The wait was more than worth it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I've only put a few hours on it but its just amazing. The loader is very strong, stronger than I thought it would be. I just played on a pile off old weed infested topsoil. The tractor feels very stable on slopes more so than the 2120. The cab and controls are nice too. I did do a little mowing in a wet area and was impressed with the floatation of the tires. I haven't put the 759C backhoe on it yet, I need to convert it over to a 3pt mount.

The hydraulic shuttle is awesome. If it holds up to long term use it will be even better. This system is so easy to change direction. In my opinion its easier and less fatiguing than a HST. For loader work I still need a bit more practice as I'm still looking to clutch. Also the loader is so strong you can burry your bucket in to a pile and it will break out with no problems.

I'm very very pleased. I would like to thank everyone for the help in my choice, especially the TN owners.



On to the punch list....

The A/C doesn't seem to cool. At idle it will cool the cab but start working and it gets weaker,if I turn off the a/c switch off the air seems to get a little warmer. I'll have to put my a/c gauges on and see what is happening. I think it just may be low on charge.

Yesterday when I was mowing I was backing up a steep slope it seemed like the shuttle was going into neutral for a split second. It didn't do it all the time and didn't seem to have enough a pattern. It didn't do it going forward. One thing I did notice is that at the dealers the 4wd light was on when driving up the trailer. When I got home and took it off the trailer I turned the 4wd off. When I went to turn it on again it would go into 4wd but the indicator light didn't light?? So there is a possibility that the 4wd was kicking out while backing?? I'll have to try it some more and see it I can isolate it some more.


Attached is a picture. I took more but this is the only one that made it to my home computer /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif.
 

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   / Finally.... TN70DA #2  
Sweet tractor! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #3  
I don't know much about your tractor or the shuttle shift but is it possible the linkage could need adjusted. The ony reason I say thisis because on a zero turn mower after a few hours you have to adjust the control levers and hydro transmissions due to air in teh lines and wear in. I know ther's a big difference between a ztr and your ig but I was just throwing an idea out there. Nice looking tractor.
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #4  
Nice looking machine.

You are waaaaaayyyy more patient than I am. How many months did you wait?

Enjoy.
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #5  
Congratulations on your new machine! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif It looks awesome!

I remember you were talking about a bigger tractor when we were visiting at Boondox's party.

Hope you get the A/C problem corrected. Can you tell if you're having a similar problem with the heat? Maybe the heat gets cooler. Is the control knob put on backwards?? Just kidding. Wouldn't it be nice if it were that simple? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #6  
Congrats on the new purchase. I bought my TN75A 4wd in August. 62 hours on it now. What a great machine!

Enjoy!
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #7  
Congratulations! I know it's been quite a while in the making. Enjoy! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #8  
Nice pic. Now how about a smaller blue one on the right side? You'd have the complete set. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Heard you and your Dad took it for a spin around the mountain. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Take care
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #9  
Derek

Congrats on finally geting it. The AC should freeze you out. The tractor automatically shifts into 4WD when you brake so you should see the 4WD drive light come on then. The transmission is very programmable so have your dealer hook it up and check it's settings. When they split mine to fix the tiny oil leak they reprogrammed it and totally changed its shifting characteristics. I had them reprogram it to my liking as far as delays, etc went. Enjoy. BTW, I can't break out my 84" hd bucket from a heavy pile and keep the rear end on the ground with loaded tires and a 8' box blade. I need about 1000 to 1200 # more weight I think.

Andy
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You are waaaaaayyyy more patient than I am. How many months did you wait?
)</font>

Since early May '04.
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #11  
Like Andy says, the AC should freeze you out. Instead of checking the system pressure, why not just check the air temp at the cab vents? A good TN system should vent air from the evaporator nearly 30 degrees below ambient as measured in front of the condenser. Anything less than 20 degrees drop indicates a problem. The Schrader valves are a fairly common source of leakage; I have changed more than a couple. Also, if it were shipped low on charge without any leak, that wouldn't be the first. I would call the dealer before you hook service gauges up. I know I would prefer to troubleshoot a system that hadn't been touched to one that had, regardless of your abilities and intentions.
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Looked into the a/c tonight. Hooked up the a/c gauges and found the pressures to be a bit abnormal. Recover the refrigerant and found it to be over charged by about 1 lb. I figured great! That's my problem. Not so. It cooled even better at idle and off idle now. But still lacked cooling at higher engine rpms. The gauge pressure are now normal durning cooling and even at the higher rpms when there is no cooling. Anything under 1400 to 1500 rpms and it cools very nicely. Anything over 1400 to 1500 rpms and the cooling is gone and the air is like luke warm. Now with the a/c off for a while (evaporator core warmed) at idle the fan will blow "cool" out side air with a/c off. Bring the rpms back up with the a/c off and the fan on the air becomes luke warm again. Now the temp control switch does respond when moved to the hot position, blows hot air, even at higher rpms. So my thinking is something with the heater flow control valve. I'm not sure if there is one.

As far as the 4wd light. It does not come on. But during braking I can feel the front wheels engage during braking and see the marks on the dirt road. I can sweat that during my a/c diagnosis tonight I saw the 4wd light on during a key on engine off event. I did check the fuses look ok. I do get the brake light relay to click when applying the brakes. I also get the two relays (same bottom row) next to the brake light relay to click, I believe those are for differential lock disengagement during braking. I did verify that on the trailer connector there is no power on the terminal for stop lights. I didn't check the relays for powers and grounds yet. I was getting Pi$$ed at this point.


Any Ideas??

I know... I should call my dealer but they will want the tractor back and keep it for a while. I don't mind spending the time to fix it if I have some general direction to go. I did order a factory service manual but its not here yet.

Thanx.
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#13  
RickB

The dealer was more than happy to have me trouble shoot the a/c system. Told me to send him a bill and he would give me a check or trade filters or what ever. He also thought as I did it would be low on charge. But it was actually over charged.
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA #14  
The heater control is a cable operated coolant valve at the heater core. This cable is the only thing connected to the large left hand hot/cold knob. Sounds as if the valve may not be closing completely and is bypassing hot coolant, especially at higher RPM's. Easiest way to check is pinch off a heater hose somewhere near the bottom of the A pillar. The headliner will need to come down to get anywhere near the valve. Consider taking vent temps as I suggested yesterday to help evaluate AC performance on these cooler days. Glad to hear your dealer is on board with you. Send me a PM or post back here if I can help.
 
   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Some more pictures
 

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   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Another
 

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   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#17  
more
 

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   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Another with the 2120 next to it.
 

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   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Another with the 2120
 

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   / Finally.... TN70DA
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Mre with 2120.
 

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