FEL Spool valves

[mbohuntr]

Anybody take apart their Prince spool valves on their FEL? Got a sticking problem and would like to know what I'm getting into. The owners manual in nearly useless...

 

[J_J]

Which prince valve is it?

 

[mbohuntr]

I have a part number from the manual saying 0580-6125, it is a single handle dual spool. The left spool is making a clicking noise when I move it (tractor off), and sticks in float when in use.

 

[mbohuntr]

I got on the Prince valve site, it appears to be the LVT tpye with some minor differences.

 

[J_J]

If you are using the float mode, it is supposed to stick in float. It is normally called a detent spool. It will stay there until you pull the lever back to neutral.

You may have a regen spool also, that will have a soft stop in it for the dump mode.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LVManual.pdf

LVR_ LVS, LVTvalves

Page 6 , page 22

 

[mbohuntr]

Thanks JJ, but this is STICKING, I've had the tractor since 2008(new), and now I have to FORCE it to come out of float, to the point where I'm worried about bending the linkage...never had this problem before??? Always stored indoors, <130 hrs total???

 

[J_J]

Remove the bottom can on the float spool and clean and lube it.
When you reassemble, make sure the bolts/nuts are tight.

 

[mbohuntr]

Remove the bottom can on the float spool and clean and lube it.
When you reassemble, make sure the bolts/nuts are tight.

Thanks JJ, Forgive my need for detail, but I've done some STUPID stuff cause I didn't know better. Are you talking about the bottom can containing the spring and balls? What will I need to clean it with, and what is ok to lube it with? I've got machine oil, motor oil (10w30) regular grease, lithium grease.
Thanks! Please treat me as a beginner, cause you should have seen my mechanics face when he stopped laughing on the floor!! ( I was putting together a motor) No one told me about those pesky "timing marks" on the gears, and where that pretty yellow and orange oil seal was supposed to go...:rotfl:

 

[J_J]

WD-40, PB Blaster, anything that will cut grease.

If the balls and springs are rusty, you will need to get new ones.

Just be careful of the little balls and springs when you release the end of the spool.

If there has been any water intrusion, fill the cap with grease and make sure the drain hole is at bottom.

Wheel bearing grease or any good grease.

 

[mbohuntr]

Almost there JJ, Got it apart ok, looks like new! I guess I thought this chamber was in hydraulic fluid as well, I didn't realize it's just the spring return mechanism on the outside. I guess I know now! I think the grease was dried out. Having a little trouble getting it back together, if I push the needle in too far, the balls are out too far and won't fit in the collar. If I leave it out to far, it won't go into float when it's bolted together?? Will figure it out tomorrow... Thanks for the help!

 

[mbohuntr]

Thank-you Very much JJ! working perfectly now! It did not go together at all like it came apart... I had to bolt on the spacer and washer first in order to compress the main dead man spring, then tie the control foward to extend the spring point and ball retainer foward. Then I was able to slide the retainer/raceway cup over a T-handle wrench and depress the spring point with the allen wrench, push the balls further into their sockets, and then slide the retainer cup over the steel balls and into their race. Lastly unbolted the spacer, placed the grease cup on the spacer, and re-bolt. It took about three beers, and slept on it until it came to me...

 

[love2farm]

If it only has 130 hours on it, wouldn't that be covered under your warranty?

 

[mbohuntr]

If I remember correctly, it had a three year warranty.(2008) It is a great tractor, I love it! I guess It is gonna be a little harder than my '45 Ford 2n to work on... crescent wrench and a hammer pretty much covered it! :laughing: