FEL removal - Any tips?

kspring61 · Mar 3, 2017

I am heading down to TN to pick up my DK40SE. I need to bring it back to PA to cut some fields for a guy that lets us hunt his land.
I have a 18' trailer and with the brush hog on the tractor it's slightly too long so I want to remove the FEL and have never done it since I had the tractor.
So, I have read the manual but I am sure guys that have done this have some good tips for making this easy.

Thanks
Kirk

Amvcane · Mar 3, 2017

I would make sure the area where you place the loader is as level as possible. At least from the front tires to the bucket. This will minimize any twist of the loader arms and make it much easier to remove and reinstall the pins.

Sysop · Mar 3, 2017

If you look at the link below, you'll see many videos on removing the loader from a tractor. Unfortunately, there is none of your exact tractor. Fortunately, most are very similar in process.

Dadnatron · Mar 3, 2017

Don't unhook the hydraulics until you have backed out of the hookup about 6 inches. I always forget and unhook them while I'm out putting down the FEL 'legs'. Then I have to cuss myself, get back off, and reattach them to elevate it off the hookup.

countrybumpkin · Mar 3, 2017

Unhook it on a HARD FLAT SURFACE !!!

kspring61 · Mar 3, 2017

countrybumpkin said:
Unhook it on a HARD FLAT SURFACE !!!

Amvcane said:
I would make sure the area where you place the loader is as level as possible. At least from the front tires to the bucket. This will minimize any twist of the loader arms and make it much easier to remove and reinstall the pins.

Thanks, going to be putting it in the pole building that has a concrete floor.

Coyote machine · Mar 3, 2017

I'm assuming you're going to offload both the bucket and loader arms as one piece? I'd get it where you want it to sit, lower the support legs and get them set, and as stated undo the hydraulic lines once you have the loader disconnected from the support structure and the pins are removed from same. Don't move too much beyond getting everything undone so no damage occurs to your FEL hydraulic lines. Once you know you're set and can back out from the FEL, then disconnect your hydraulics, AFTER using the locking mechanism just below the FEL's control stick. This will keep you from bumping it accidentally while you disconnect the QDs under the right side floorboard.
I suggest throwing some significant amount of grease where the pins lock the loader into it's supports. I found mine were pretty dry when I first removed the FEL, and having it removed gives much better access to the connection areas.

Amvcane · Mar 4, 2017

Not sure if I did it when removing the loader, but before disconnecting the backhoe cycle the joystick to relieve the pressure from all the hoses. ( with the engine off )
If you don't you will not be able to reconnect the lines without relieving the pressure. Putting a rag over the female connector and hitting the nipple with a hammer usually will relieve enough pressure to reconnect the lines.

Dadnatron · Mar 4, 2017

Amvcane said:
Not sure if I did it when removing the loader, but before disconnecting the backhoe cycle the joystick to relieve the pressure from all the hoses. ( with the engine off )
If you don't you will not be able to reconnect the lines without relieving the pressure. Putting a rag over the female connector and hitting the nipple with a hammer usually will relieve enough pressure to reconnect the lines.

Heh... this is ALSO a must.

I once had a blade with a hose under pressure. I couldn't get it to connect. I thought, 'Well, I will just push in the ball on the tire and let a little pressure out. I pushed on the lug, had a HUGE spray all over the place. Of course, I was cranking down on it, so my face was about 8" away. My complexion was excellent for the next week. My wife asked me if I was using moisturizer."

Took a week to get the oil completely off my sunglasses.

Sysop · Mar 4, 2017

Amvcane said:
Not sure if I did it when removing the loader, but before disconnecting the backhoe cycle the joystick to relieve the pressure from all the hoses. ( with the engine off )
If you don't you will not be able to reconnect the lines without relieving the pressure. Putting a rag over the female connector and hitting the nipple with a hammer usually will relieve enough pressure to reconnect the lines.

Key point BOLDed above.

Dadnatron said:
Heh... this is ALSO a must.

I once had a blade with a hose under pressure. I couldn't get it to connect. I thought, 'Well, I will just push in the ball on the tire and let a little pressure out. I pushed on the lug, had a HUGE spray all over the place. Of course, I was cranking down on it, so my face was about 8" away. My complexion was excellent for the next week. My wife asked me if I was using moisturizer."

Took a week to get the oil completely off my sunglasses.

A rag is a key component of the "wrap and tap" depressurization technique.