FEL plow vs. rear blade for 1 mile of infrequent chipseal road snow removal

[oosik]

We very seldom get more than twelve inches of snow accumulated. One winter - out of the 41 I've been here - we got 42 inches accumulated. THAT winter I was really glad I had a 3-point mounted blower.

I've not plowed the driveway - even once - in the last four years. I have a very heavy Ram 2500 Power Wagon. It will easily cut a path thru six inches of snow. As long as I can keep the path open with the Power Wagon ( Taco Wagon) there is no need to plow.

The normal scenario here is - it will snow, then turn warm and most of that snow will melt before it snows again.

 

[Glue Guy]

I live at the end of a 1 mile private road, which is chip sealed. We get anywhere between 0-3 "problematic" storms per year, usually between 4-12" of snow at a time. This doesn't seem like a lot, but it's a nightmare every time. The road has some steep parts and camber to it, with deep ditches on the side, and folks with lesser vehicles or lesser judgement always get stuck. Sometimes very stuck. After a day, the snow turns into ice and then everyone gets stuck for days and days until it melts.

Last year was particularly bad, and I used my loader bucket to clear out the worst sections of the road where people were getting stuck. This was very time consuming, and not the right tool for the job. I had to scoop it up one bucket at a time and dump it over the edge of the road. I was unable to push it anywhere, because it all clumps together and often freezes onto the inside of the bucket. It would take me all day to do the whole road.

I'd like to set my L2501 up to be able to clear these occasional storms, and I'm torn between:

• 7' rear blade with adjustable angle. Replace metal cutting edge with polyurethane strip. Let the "tilt" link on the 3 point hitch float, either by removing the link entirely or adding hydraulic top/tilt and floating the tilt valve, so that it can follow the contour of the road. Easy to find a rear blade used for $500.
• 7' quick attach snowplow attachment for front end loader, with either hydraulic or manual angle adjustment (I do have the 3rd function hydraulics). Hard to find used around here, would likely buy new.

The rear blade is definitely a cheaper option, and I get to keep my loader bucket or grapple attached for other tasks. I'm worried though that by not having my backhoe or chipper on the rear of the tractor (both at least 1200lbs) I'll be losing a lot of ballast/traction. The rear blade also doesn't have the springs of a snow plow, to give it relief if I hit an obstacle. There aren't many potential obstacles on the road, but these things happen. I'm also a little skeptical of how well the tractor will steer when pushing snow with the loader. The front end of this tractor is not particularly heavy, and I've noticed that when I'm pushing things around with the loader (stumps, piles of dirt, big rocks) it doesn't steer very well. It seems like the loader has too much leverage on the tractor, being so far out in front of the steering axle.


Thoughts? Similar experience? Any input is appreciated.

I've mounted many Meyers Jeep size plows in Kubota buckets and on SSQA plates They work great as long as you let the plow float with a chain top link! 3rd function for power angle and remove two pins to use the bucket to finish of f==f the piles at the end!

 

[zzvyb6]

Running a blower either rear or front mounted seems absurd to me because you can't go 10 - 15 mph like you can with a blade. By the time you get to the end of the road and turn around the lane you just cleared will be loaded with snow again. Plus, along with snow comes debris (ice clumps, tree branches, discarded McDonalds meals, pop & beer cans and worse. Your blower won't like any of that. If you have the traction, speed will be the key element because heavy wet snow needs break-out force.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Yah, but not all of us have a 3 mile driveway, or the money for a plow truck. Besides that, what to do with the snow banks as winter progresses? Blowing my driveway is fun and the best solution for me. YMMV….

 

[Robin Veerman]

My company plow…

 

[alpha&omega]

I have a mile long gravel driveway. For the first 27 years I had a Ford 1700 with a rear blade. On rare occasions I'd wait too long - the snow would get too deep - the rear blade would tend to push the rear of the tractor around.

At least four hours to clear the driveway and mailbox area. Another hour or so to clear the yard.

My neck and shoulders would take two or three days to "heal" after using the blower.

This is my snow machine..........
View attachment 821125

No wonder it takes you so long. Im guessing by using that grapple for moving snow, it’s probably as useful as it would be to move sand or liquid water. Ha!
That’s a heck of a blade though. What length is that one? And do you mind if I ask what that one cost when you bought it?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Speaking of snow...

Removed the little mower and installed the salvaged Rhino blade for winter duty. As you can see, the blade itself isn't exactly as delivered. That's because somebody had bent the original blade, repaired (badly), and bent again a few times. But at $50, the price was right.

Don't ask me how they managed to mangle it so badly. To the point that it had a bit over a 90 degree bend in it. After a futile attempt at straightening it I started looking for a new blade, and quickly found that they're very proud of them.

Ended up having one bent up at the local metal place, then added reinforcements as necessary and welded it to the original mount, then welded a cutting edge to the bottom. Also had to replace a corroded quick connect on one hose.

All said and done I have under $300 invested in this setup, and it works quite a bit better than the (free) basic Kubota blade I've been using for the past 12 years. More weight, less slop, and the ability to offset is great.