FEL Link Repair

   / FEL Link Repair #1  

Avenger

Veteran Member
Joined
May 16, 2018
Messages
1,452
Location
North Idaho
Tractor
LS XR4145C
A while back I did something stupid. I attached a tine bucket with 42 inch tines to the FEL, stuck the tips of the tines into the dirt (slightly) and backed up. :duh:

The increased leverage of the tine bucket, mixed with my stupidity, bent the crap out of the loader links. But I didn't even notice, not for a while anyway. That was early winter of 2019. Here is what they look like before my repair:

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I used the FEL like this for a while. The bent up links rubbed on the frame a bit, but other than that, everything seemed ok. Until I took them off:

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I noticed this large rip in the steel, and kicked myself again for not doing this repair sooner.

I took off the links and hardware, cleaned them up and started the process of straightening them.

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I used a rosebud, hammer, vice, crescent wrench, and channel locks to get them 'mostly' straight. They are not perfect, but much better than they were. Some machinist friends would likely balk at the methods and accuracy of "flat" that I have achieved. One of them even told me I should just make new ones, that I'll never get it perfect. But perfect was not my goal, getting the tractor back to work was. This is good enough given the time and tools I had at my disposal.

The crack got welded and ground flat.

I then welded some 1in angle iron to strengthen the links.

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This should help from them buckling in the future. However, I know that these links are the 'weakest' links in the system. I'd rather replace these links than the curl cylinders. But I have learned my lesson, no more back dragging. I just felt that I could do something more to keep these from getting bent out of shape in the future. *I know I run the risk of damaging my curl cylinders. That is a risk I am willing to take.

I got them painted up and re-installed.

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I used Ford Blue for the color. I know its not the exact same blue. I couldn't find the "safety blue" or whatever its called. It's close enough, and once they are covered in grease and dirt, I wont be able to see the difference.

From removal of the links, to the re-install, took me all weekend. The straightening took about 4 hours. The rest was cleaning the links and waiting for the paint to dry.

This was something that is easily avoided had I not been such an idiot. I knew that back dragging is hard on these FELs and run the risk of bending those cylinders. When I saw the damage, I should have repaired the issue immediately instead of pushing it off, which likely caused more damage, rust, and could have resulted in further failure of the FEL.

I've learned my lesson, fixed my issue, lets hope I remember this lesson so next time it wont be worse.
 
   / FEL Link Repair #2  
Thanks for sharing your experience I just learned one more thing to be aware of.
 
   / FEL Link Repair #3  
Wow that's quite the bend. Gotta be what, 3/8 or 1/2 inch steel? Can't remember ever seeing that before on any brand but it's certainly something to watch out for. I've seen broken rods but not the linkage.

Hope your repair is trouble free.
 
   / FEL Link Repair #4  
It's good to see the little Boss Man out there inspecting the work on "his" tractor! Did he approve?
 
   / FEL Link Repair
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I was going to actually measure the thickness of those links last night, but completely forgot. They are fairly thick.

And yes, the "little Boss Man" does approve the repair. :thumbsup:
 
   / FEL Link Repair #6  
There have been a couple threads about bending those. The majority opinion is that those are cheaper and easy to replace than the cylinders are.
Someone posted that a new set was under $300, but new cylinders were three times that amount and LS has the links in stock.
 
   / FEL Link Repair #7  
Makes me want to just go ahead and do that to the links on my loader.... But still under warranty for another eleven months. 'Only 1 year warranty for attachments for LS'.
That does seem to be a common theme looking around LS loaders. But like you say, it takes a combo of different actions to do that.
I back blade or 'back drag' all the time with the bucket, makes such a nice finish on top or to pull a item back a little to get at it better. AND that image is always in the back corner of my mind of a bent cylinder rod or fancy shaped links. I use a 66inch rock bucket at times, that implement puts that image MUCH closer to the front of mind.
 
 
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