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[plumbyII]

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[marhar]

sounds to me like a water pump is not doing its job..

Have you tried a radiator flush with radiator cleaner?? I know you said you I flushed the coolant.

 

[K5lwq]

A brand new water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan, belt, air filter or flushing the block will NOT help the OP with his problem.

 

[beesaw]

Another update, Had it running again today, with the temp gun, same results, gauge was running real high with no change in temp gun, then the gauge started to level out and be on the cooler side, I will trouble shoot the cluster and temp gauge. thanks everyone, particularly RickB, at least worst worries of over heating tractor are behind me.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Have you performed a coolant system pressure test? If not I would at the very least check it just to re-assure myself that it is not a head gasket.

But, my thought is that since it is an intermittent problem it is most likely a faulty sensor and or gauge. Follow the circuit; fuse to key switch to gauge to sending unit to ground.

With the engine off remove the wire from the sensor and ground it; the gauge should go to full hot; if it doesn't the gauge is bad or the wire has an intermittent open in it. Next check the sensor to ground and measure the resistance with it cold and than again while hot. It should go down as it heats and if it shows an open it is faulty. Check the feed to the gauge to ensure it is getting line voltage as well. Is the fuse clean and tight?

Given the age of the machine don't discount a chafed wire somewhere.

My mantra for trouble shooting is it always something simple if you can't find it right away since the really bad stuff is usually pretty easy to recognize. The corollary to that is to not immediately start thinking it is the worst thing that could occur and start hunting for that,

 

[beesaw]

Get a good clean ohms reading between the cylinder head and the sender unit body. Should be zero or very, very close. If not, the tape is a problem.
With the fuel sender and temp sender unplugged at the cluster end, ohm between the cluster metal rear panel and a good chassis ground or the battery - cable. Again, should be zero.
Here is a link to a good discussion about voltage stabilizer function as it would apply to your tractor.
BTW how does your fuel gauge read?

ford 3000 voltage stablizer questions

www.tractorforum.com

Fuel gauge runs fine, no issue with it,

Get a good clean ohms reading between the cylinder head and the sender unit body. Should be zero or very, very close. If not, the tape is a problem.
With the fuel sender and temp sender unplugged at the cluster end, ohm between the cluster metal rear panel and a good chassis ground or the battery - cable. Again, should be zero.
Here is a link to a good discussion about voltage stabilizer function as it would apply to your tractor.
BTW how does your fuel gauge read?

ford 3000 voltage stablizer questions

www.tractorforum.com

thanks, did those, low or zero ohms on both of those tests, did remove the tape off the sender anyway, fuel gauge runs fine, only have a digital multi meter, not sure how to test the stabilizer with it

 

[dodge man]

Geez, did anybody read his post about the IR guns reading. Unless I’m reading it wrong the tractor is not overheating, it’s barely even warmed up. Its a gauge, sending unit wiring problem.

 

[beesaw]

Think I figured it out, voltage stablilizer is only getting 1.4 volts, musta burnt out, gonna order a new one, thanks everyone

 

[RickB]

Think I figured it out, voltage stablilizer is only getting 1.4 volts, musta burnt out, gonna order a new one, thanks everyone

Hopefully that will cure it.

 

[garycpennock]

You might try removing the thermostat completely. It will take longer to warm up, however it will allow full flow of coolant thru the engine. If it does not over heat or is somewhat better (cooler), this would indicate a possible flow restriction. Maybe need to rod out the radiator or something else ??? Good luck on diagnosing the problem.