I am re-doing a Farmtrac 545 and struggled a bit looking up the filters: Sharing:
OIL: Wix 51515 FRAM PH8A
Water Sep: Wix 33472 FRAM P8043
Secondary Fuel: Wix 33358 FRAM 4102A
Hydraulic: Wix 51712 FRAM P3952
Air Filter: Wix 42533 & 46534 FRAM CA 4304 & CA 4262SY FleetGard AF1855 & AF1766
For what it's worth: The tractor needs almost 5 gallons of HYD oil in the front section of the Transmission, and a whole 5 Gallons in the rear axle, at least that's what it took to get my levels correct after draining.
Looking forward to hearing from others....Would love to know what year mine is: T-2065442 is the serial number if anyone knows the coding.
Note to self: DO NOT remove the injector pump. If you do.... at least make sure you can re-time that rascal.
I am on week 3 of dead tractor because I had a seal in the injector pump replaced. I marked the idler gear and THOUGHT i had it all right. Never was I so wrong.
The Timing Marks on the flywheel are located on the starboard side forward of the flywheel (below the starter). They are covered by a rubber pry out plug.
The timing instructions for the Bosch/Mico VE pump are not clear at all. So here I will attempt to explain just in case.
Remove lower radiator hose so you can access the timing gear cover. Remove timing gear cover. It takes a 22mm socket or end wrench to remove the nut that holds the gear. It takes a puller to remove the gear (the puller hits the radiator and it is a pain in the *** but you can do it). Now that you have the gear from the injection pump off have your buddy spin the tractor over to make the timing marks all outta whack. {Just kidding but this is essentially what happened to me}
Remove the rubber plug from the timing cover low on the starboard side. Roll the tractor over until you find 16 degrees on the flywheel. The farmtrac repair manual tells you that there is a pin to stick into the flywheel that will only go in when it is at TDC on #1...This is not true for the 545. Dont waste your time looking for it. Once yo have the flywheel in the right place remove the valve cover and make sure that you are on the compression stroke and not the exhaust. (You have a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time). Now for the crazy part that is DEFINITELY not clear in the farmtrac manual.
Lets talk about a swan neck pipe willya? NO....Its an INJECTOR LINE. Take an old injector line and bend it in such a way that you can screw it onto your injector pump and it will stick straight up and then curve down like a sink spigot. [DUH...shape it like a swan's neck)
Attach the injector line to the number one injector line supply on the injector pump.
with your 22mm socket....roll the injector pump (it aint easy) while pumping the hand primer. When you get to the right place it will start gushing fuel out of the Swan neck....ARGGHHH the injector line that you have created from thin air. Well at least that is what the instructions will have you believe but it doesnt work that way. You have to turn the ignition key to the run position while you are doing this...IF YOU DONT... you wont get fuel out of the number 1 injector because the fuel control is shut off. Once you got fuel from number 1....back up on the injector pump until you do not have any fuel coming out...... I am guessing that what they want to occur is that your tractor wants to get fuel passed into the injector at exactly 16 degrees before TDC. I imagine that somewhere between 16 degrees and 8 degrees of rotation is where the bang takes place.....BUT THIS IS A PURE GUESS.
Once you think you have it right, put the gear back on the injection pump. The **** with the marks.... they will probably line up perfectly.
Once you have done this see if you cannot bleed the air out and get it running. SO far I cannot.
Its because I was starting at 16 degrees....This tractor needs 25 degrees of advance to run. Dont count on getting it out of the farmtrac repair manual.....
