FarmPro 2425 No start and died while running!

   / FarmPro 2425 No start and died while running!
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Found it very interesting and that is the area I saw oil seeping on the pavement. Right about mid tractor. Should be interesting to go look at it this evening.

Found the parts breakdown on johnsjinma.c** If nothing else, I should have more info tomorrow.
 
   / FarmPro 2425 No start and died while running!
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Is there a way to relieve the pressure off the crank to see if that's the problem without disassembling. Like jack up the center or pry the edge back and see if the crank will turn?
 
   / FarmPro 2425 No start and died while running! #13  
You can take a pair of jacks and carefully jack the engine with one and the transmission with the other until the bellhousing and flywheel covers are aligned with no visibly tapered gap anywhere, but that's still no guarantee that things won't still be binding inside if the flywheel has shifted any.

I had a problem with my 304 Jinma where the flywheel cover bolts weren't properly torqued down at the factory, causing shifting and a torn gasket, resulting in that telltale oil leak at the back of the engine oil sump. Had to split the tractor to fix it, which was intimidating to a novice, but iI managed it okay and all is well since then.
 
   / FarmPro 2425 No start and died while running!
  • Thread Starter
#14  
We tried to jack up the back half next to the flywheel housing and as it went in the air nothing moved. I can insert a screwdriver tip in a gap right above the starter, about the same height on the other side. I figure there shouldn't be a gap there and looks like gasket material above this point and I am unable to insert a screwdriver in that area. Appears to be where it is leaking oil also.

So, it would seem we are close! So, possible the flywheel is loose too and is binding on the housing or something.
 
   / FarmPro 2425 No start and died while running! #15  
I'm pretty sure that's the problem,if you are mechanical and have a shop it's not that big of a deal to split the tractor.You just need to block it good and wedge the front pivot to keep it straight.More labor time than parts.You will prob. need a Oil seal, Flywheel gasket, bell housing gasket I would also replace the flywheel bolts with grade 8 bolts and locktite.You may also want to get one of our clutch alignment tools

Tommy
Affordbale Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
 
   / FarmPro 2425 No start and died while running! #16  
You will absolutely want to get one of Tommy's clutch pilot tools! It will make lining up the clutch possible, even easy. I did mine before Tommy was selling those and had to make my own. Good thing I have a lathe.

While you have it split, this is the time to carefully do the clutch setup all over again and also to replace the throwout bearing if it looks at all suspicious. Cheap insurance. Also, when you're in there, replace the roll pin in the clutch actuator fork with a nested pair of roll pins or one of the better spiral spring pins - they've been known to shear, leaving you with no clutch and having to split the tractor to replace a fifteen cent part. Do it now!

I had to do all this to my tractor a couple three years ago and I documented it here: CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS - Major Tractor Woes in Paradise You may find it helpful to check that out if you've nevr split a tractor before. It was my first time an I got a lot of good advice from both Tommy and Ronald from RanchHand Supply.
 
   / FarmPro 2425 No start and died while running! #17  
To answer some of your other diagnostic questions: with a socket on the crank pulley it should take about 10 ft/lbs to turn the motor -- i.e. ten pounds of force on a 1-foot wrench. Not a whole lot.

Another thing to investigate: these tractors have quick-connects on the hydraulic lines. If one of them comes loose it will stop the flow of hydraulic oil, which will stop the pump, and either the motor will stall or the pump will self-destruct. I know from personal experience that the starter is not powerful enough to turn the engine with one of the quick-connects disconnected. While oil leaking from the midsection is obviously a problem, your immediate problem might be as easy to fix as reconnecting a hydraulic line.
 

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