Farmpro 2425 (jinma 254) Rubber washers. Is there a better solution

[theghoul]

More fun with my 300hr Farmpro 2425 (jinma 254). I was bathed in hydraulic fluid spewing from the junction.

I seem to be replacing these often (different ones though, not the same). Is there a longer lasting solution? I fear these will fail again.

 

[bjr]

I went to my friendly western wear/tractor parts store and got into their nut/bolt & small fitting assortment trays and found some thicker nylon washers to go over the banjo bolts and it sealed the leak. bjr

 

[Rich Waugh]

For steel banjo bolts in steel fittings, I use soft copper washers designed for the purpose. Chinese rubber is notoriously bad and prone to early failure so replacing it with a better product wherever possible just makes good sense. Nylon washers, copper washers, American-made hoses, etc.

 

[RonMar]

I use copper for banjo fittings also. IF you are handy, you can cut your own from thin copper sheet with a sharp pair of scissors... An appropriate sized greenlee punch is real handy to cut a clean inside hole.

I have never had any issue with the banjo fittings you are refering to. I am not sure what they are made of on my tractor. Another question to ask, is what pressure is your hydraulic system running at? I assume this thing popped while operating the 3PH, say lifting a large impliment such as a brushhog? The 3PH control valve at the back has a relief valve in it. The one on my 254 was set in excess of 3000 PSI as delivered. This placed a lot of strain on the Orings in the loader valve, and they let go on me a couple times untill I figured out what was happening and fixed the relief setting in the 3PH control valve. The 3PH relief uses shims over a spring to set the relief opening pressure.

 

[theghoul]

I use copper for banjo fittings also. IF you are handy, you can cut your own from thin copper sheet with a sharp pair of scissors... An appropriate sized greenlee punch is real handy to cut a clean inside hole.

I have never had any issue with the banjo fittings you are refering to. I am not sure what they are made of on my tractor. Another question to ask, is what pressure is your hydraulic system running at? I assume this thing popped while operating the 3PH, say lifting a large impliment such as a brushhog? The 3PH control valve at the back has a relief valve in it. The one on my 254 was set in excess of 3000 PSI as delivered. This placed a lot of strain on the Orings in the loader valve, and they let go on me a couple times untill I figured out what was happening and fixed the relief setting in the 3PH control valve. The 3PH relief uses shims over a spring to set the relief opening pressure.

Hmm I need to have a look at this. I was lifting a 5 ft back blade to drag some snow. Maybe it's too big. Besides a pressure gauge, is there a good way to check it?

I'll look into some nylon washers as well.

 

[RonMar]

Do you have a single female hydraulic quick connect fitting on the right side of the 3PH box? IF so, that makes it easy. Those were put on many of the Jinma's to power a single acting cylinder on a dump trailer. IF so you only need a male quick connect fitting with a gauge screwed into it. You screw the speed reg valve in front of the seat all the way closed, plug the gauge into the QC then try and lift the 3PH lever. WIth the speed reg valve screwed all the way closed, the 3PH won't lift, and the fluid will have to exit thru the 3PH relief valve. That relief/system pressure will be displayed on the gauge.

If you do not have that QC port o the back of the tractor, you will need to "T" the gauge off somewhere forward in the system. The next easiest place would probably be where the QC fittings for the loader are located. A maleQC , a femaleQC and a high pressure "T" fitting with the gauge in the middle would plug right into the line. With the speed reg valve setup the same(fully closed) the pressure created by trying to raise the 3PH will be felt all the way back to the pump, so the "T" and gauge at the loader hookups would see the relief pressure also.

Just make sure when messing with the loader quick connects that they are correctly locked in place, and never allowed to open/part when the engine is started or running. This will completely deadhead the system and pump damage can and will most likley result. It is a good idea to place a large zip-tie behind the sliding collar on the female QC fitting to prevent inadvertent connector release.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree. Something else is up. I have 1000 hrs on my 284 with no leaks. I lift my 7' rear blade, 6' bush hog, and 6' box blade with no issues.

Chris

 

[doxford jim]

I have some small leaks appearing on the FEL control valve block of my tractor. I have an external relief valve that dumps the oil back to the hydraulic tank. A pressure gauge shows system pressures at all times - pressures limited to just below 2000 psi (relief valve setting).
I think the rubber material in the dowty washers/crush washers starts to deteriorate with age (a common complaint with Chinese rubber components).
Changing to aluminium or copper washers should do the job and prevent further problems.