OP
BlackRaptor
Gold Member
From those images and the Hight and location of it, it almost looks like a full mark plug. And the same baby diarrhea looking oil comes out.
Farmall H Startup Advice after 20 years of sitting
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ovrszd
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If your intent is to drain it. Remove the rear end drain plug. Then look to see if the fluid level dropped at that plug? This would indicate it's the same case.
Hopefully some of the Farmall guys will chime in with accurate information. We are just shooting at stars.
My Ford has separate cases for the rear and the trans. Rear also includes the hydraulics. The rear's level is right at the bottom of the axle shafts. This provides lube to the outer axle bearings.
Hopefully some of the Farmall guys will chime in with accurate information. We are just shooting at stars.
My Ford has separate cases for the rear and the trans. Rear also includes the hydraulics. The rear's level is right at the bottom of the axle shafts. This provides lube to the outer axle bearings.
Looking4new
Super Member
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The hole at the very bottom is the drain hole and the one part way up the side is the fill.
That is the tranny case you are looking at.
Judging by all the black crud leaking down from above, you may have a seal leaking.
That is the tranny case you are looking at.
Judging by all the black crud leaking down from above, you may have a seal leaking.
geblackwell
Bronze Member
You Tube has several videos on the Farmall H
DJ54
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- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
The plug you are pointing at, I the level plug. Fill plug in on top, near the gear shift. I've attached an old Lube Chart, from an old Gulf Oil catalog of multiple tractor lube charts I have. Shows all the lube points, and capacities.
If it has set outside, more than likely you have what looks like a milkshake inside the trans./diffy. Drain out that lower rear plug. Fill with a couple gallons of cheap Auto trans fluid ( Walmart brand is fine) A couple gallons of diesel fuel, and a quart of rubbing alcohol. Drive it around for 15-20 minutes, then drain completely. The ATF is high detergent, and will clean things up. Diesel fuel will wash it down. The alcohol will absorb any water/moisture, and bring it out with it. Another TBN member Soundguy, spoke of adding the alcohol years ago to the first two items I always used anyway to flush them out. Works great..!! Then refill, until it comes out the check plug. Capacities are listed at the bottom of the lube chart I attached.
*** It does look like the pinion shaft gear seal(s) are leaking, behind the brakes. I'm not sure at what point in time you plan to replace them, but, do be aware, you need to pull the transmission top cover, then unbolt the bull gear from the axle, to get the pinion shaft bearing cage out, to replace the seal. There is a relief cast into the bearing cage, that the bull gear goes through, to mate up with the pinion shaft. I've attached a picture below from Wenger's parts, to show this. If you pull the pinion shaft case, and not remove the bull gear, you'll break the cage. BTDT... One of the items they failed to mention in the I&T manual, in the disassembly instructions, for replacing the seal. Although it is mentioned in another section, a few pages further back in the manual.
Just wanted you to be forewarned, if you decide to do that job soon.***
Hope this helps....
(Edit) Forgot to mention, when you open the lube chart, you can save that image to a file on your 'puter. You can also print it off, and it will print out a full sized print, and save it, if you have a loose leaf notebook, if you have other manuals for it..
https://www.wengers.com/parts/media...8eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/0/p0001085.jpg
If it has set outside, more than likely you have what looks like a milkshake inside the trans./diffy. Drain out that lower rear plug. Fill with a couple gallons of cheap Auto trans fluid ( Walmart brand is fine) A couple gallons of diesel fuel, and a quart of rubbing alcohol. Drive it around for 15-20 minutes, then drain completely. The ATF is high detergent, and will clean things up. Diesel fuel will wash it down. The alcohol will absorb any water/moisture, and bring it out with it. Another TBN member Soundguy, spoke of adding the alcohol years ago to the first two items I always used anyway to flush them out. Works great..!! Then refill, until it comes out the check plug. Capacities are listed at the bottom of the lube chart I attached.
*** It does look like the pinion shaft gear seal(s) are leaking, behind the brakes. I'm not sure at what point in time you plan to replace them, but, do be aware, you need to pull the transmission top cover, then unbolt the bull gear from the axle, to get the pinion shaft bearing cage out, to replace the seal. There is a relief cast into the bearing cage, that the bull gear goes through, to mate up with the pinion shaft. I've attached a picture below from Wenger's parts, to show this. If you pull the pinion shaft case, and not remove the bull gear, you'll break the cage. BTDT... One of the items they failed to mention in the I&T manual, in the disassembly instructions, for replacing the seal. Although it is mentioned in another section, a few pages further back in the manual.
Just wanted you to be forewarned, if you decide to do that job soon.***Hope this helps....
(Edit) Forgot to mention, when you open the lube chart, you can save that image to a file on your 'puter. You can also print it off, and it will print out a full sized print, and save it, if you have a loose leaf notebook, if you have other manuals for it..
https://www.wengers.com/parts/media...8eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/0/p0001085.jpg
OP
BlackRaptor
Gold Member
Wow thanks ! That was just what I needed. You are right rear fluid looks like a milk shake. It sat for 20 years inside a dirt floor shed in northern Iowa. You are right too there are a bunch a seals leaking. It's in my to do to break it down next year and try to fix seals before paint. I have to pull the carb again today and bend the float, needle is leaking a little bit after about an hour the carb drips. Fourth time is the charm I guess haha.
Thanks is again for all the info.
Hopefully next week I'll be pulling logs with the H I need to get an old Grove cleared for planting new trees this spring. I attached a picture of the H getting driven around a little yesterday and also my next project. 47 M with a blown head gasket bad manifold gasket screwed up carb and a few other things it use to have a loader and a wide front and a potted out rim I've been slowly working on this one also. I'll start a new thread for my progress on this one too.
Thanks is again for all the info.
Hopefully next week I'll be pulling logs with the H I need to get an old Grove cleared for planting new trees this spring. I attached a picture of the H getting driven around a little yesterday and also my next project. 47 M with a blown head gasket bad manifold gasket screwed up carb and a few other things it use to have a loader and a wide front and a potted out rim I've been slowly working on this one also. I'll start a new thread for my progress on this one too.
Creamer
Elite Member
BlackRaptor - Looks like you are really getting imto the Farmalls - they are good project tractors - easy to work on and good parts availability.
BTW - your profile states JD 3320 but the picture does not look like one.
BTW - your profile states JD 3320 but the picture does not look like one.
OP
BlackRaptor
Gold Member
Profile picture is my 1956 John Deere 70 wide front with a westendorf loader. I have a 3320 cab also that's my main tractor the old iron is my hobby. I told my wife I want to buy one old tractor a year until I retire. I'm 34 haha.
OP
BlackRaptor
Gold Member
Got my jig update with 1.8438 and 1.8906. .89 should stop the leak.
Creamer
Elite Member
That would be quite a collection!
