Farmall A bodywork

   / Farmall A bodywork #1  

Dizno

Silver Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2012
Messages
114
Location
ON, Canada
Tractor
John Deere 1020, John Deere 1030, John Deere AR, John Deere 455
I recently purchased an old 1941 Farmall A. The distributor is interfering with the hood.

What is the reason? I see some Farmall A tractors have more of a horizontal distributor.

I do not know enough to know what is happening.
 

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   / Farmall A bodywork #2  
My guess is over the years the owner(s) did whatever they could to keep it running. Searching online there are lots of pictures and videos. Are your plans to restore it?
Maybe it's been converted to 12 volts?
 
   / Farmall A bodywork
  • Thread Starter
#3  
There was a 6V battery on it when I bought it and it has a generator on it.
 
   / Farmall A bodywork
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I have a cutter I was hoping to pull with it. It doesn’t run right now.
 
   / Farmall A bodywork
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Some more pictures…
 

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   / Farmall A bodywork #6  
That distributor is known as a Delco conversion. Your tractor more than likely came out with a magneto, and a PO converted it to a distributor with the Delco conversion.

Does it look like it would clear the hood if it was standing straight up..?? I have a conversion on my McCormick-Deering OS-6, and it stands straight up with ample hood room. Could be someone installed it a couple teeth off on the timing gears and would explain the angle it is setting at.
 
   / Farmall A bodywork #7  
First tractor was a 41 Farmall A and it had a mag and the dreaded Marvel Schibler undraft carb as well. I skidded a ton of sawn trees with that old girl. Sold it to a guy who restored it for a parade tractor.

Mine was a dual fuel, gas and distillate and had rad shutters and a box that went over the carb to keep it hot. Only ran it once on distallate (keroscene) and it was a messy deal. One time was enough.
 
   / Farmall A bodywork
  • Thread Starter
#8  
That distributor is known as a Delco conversion. Your tractor more than likely came out with a magneto, and a PO converted it to a distributor with the Delco conversion.

Does it look like it would clear the hood if it was standing straight up..?? I have a conversion on my McCormick-Deering OS-6, and it stands straight up with ample hood room. Could be someone installed it a couple teeth off on the timing gears and would explain the angle it is setting at.
Thankyou. It won’t clear.
 
   / Farmall A bodywork #9  
I'm not a Super A guy, I'm have 140s. That's a Rube Goldberg setup for sure. Several things you can do. Buy the correct stuff from Burch or Steiner to convert it to 12 volt or get it back to a proper 6 volt converted setup. If it had a 6 volt battery then it's probably 6 volt. They made 6 and 12 volt generators. I have 2 with 12 volt gens. There's a forum for Farmall Cubs that would be very helpful to you. It's a cub forum but has a lot of info on Super A and 140s.

That Bush Hog is gonna be hard for that Super A to run, especially if you try cutting anything but grass.
 
   / Farmall A bodywork #10  
Burch Tractor has a complete distributor with drive housing and drive shaft for a decent price: Original Engine Distributor for IH Farmall 140, 130, Super A, 100, Super C, 200, Other Tractor Models Of course a new set of points and condenser will be needed more than likely. They may even be interested in giving some boot for your Delco conversion. I guess you could also check around your area for a tractor salvage yard and see if any are available. And more than likely be interested in what you have to knock the price down.

I pull a 4' Woods cutter with my A. I have mowed 3' tall grass with it, but all it wants. If it's really thick I just take a partial cut of maybe 3', but it will handle 2' tall grass pretty good, in first gear of course.

The cutter you have is pretty unique with the offset hitch, to line up with the offset PTO on your A. Just hook it up to one of the holes, furthest to the left in the drawbar, which ever lines up the best with the PTO shaft. Sure would be handy for trimming up close to a fence without the tractor tire being close to it.

If the ignition system is the problem of it not running, you can get new points & condenser for it. Whatever parts store you deal with you'll need to ask for points & condenser for a Chevy 153 cu. in. 4 cyl. engine. Distributor cap too, if needed.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the OEM 6 volt system, you just need to get proper sized battery cables for it so it turns over as it should. Using automotive 4 gauge are too small, and you'll have what most call a "lazy starter." I get my battery cables here: 2/0 Gauge Battery Cables - Custom Made 00 AWG Battery Cables You can choose color of sheath, and ends which are shrink wrapped. The marine grade although the most expensive per foot is very flexible. With a new/good battery, you'll think you have 12V hooked up to it. Once ordered, they ship Priority Mail and usually have them in 3 days.

The other thing is finding a decent voltage regulator. I've tried numerous brands, but the best I've found are from Standard Motor Products, Part number is SMP VR214. I have them on 5 of my tractors, one on my one Super C has been on there for 5 years. They're $100 but last. I bought one at NAPA 3 years ago for my IH 240 Utility for $75, and it lasted 45 minutes. Being an electrical component, it is non-returnable so needless to say I was a little testy after that deal. I don't mind paying a higher price for parts that will last, and so far, the SMP VR214's have worked well for me. I don't know if you have O'Reilly's Auto Parts there, but they do carry them.
 

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