Farm Pro 2430 not moving

[detel]

Thank you Tommy! I will make the adjustments as soon as I get back to town and let you know how it turns out!

 

[detel]

Ok, I have the FEL out of the way enough to pull the brackets. My tractor will move if given enough peddle which I thought was a step in the right direction. Two questions; Once I disconnect the clutch arm from the linkage rod, I have about an 1"-1 1/2" of play in the arm. Do I adjust from it's resting place or do I bring the clutch arm all the way back, towards the seat and then adjust? 2. How much throttle/RPMS will you have before the clutch kicks in?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Clutch shouldn't slip at any engine speed.

 

[detel]

I have the FEL off. Unhooked the linkage rod off of the arm coming out of the bell housing. Adjusted the PTO clutch to .30. Adjusted the 3 clutch fingers to 1/8" clearance from the throw out bearing to the face. Reattached the clutch arm. Start tractor it in 2WD, low gear and reverse. Let out the clutch and after a bit of hesitation it starts to move, give the peddle and it speeds up. Put it forward and after hesitation starts to move. Give it the peddle and it will pick up speed however, too much peddle and it starts slowing down. More adjustments needed or maybe a new clutch? One other thing, I can press the clutch all the way down to where it will finally hit the stop but, I can't get the clutch arm to make contact with the safety switch and I have it adjusted all the way out, Help!!!

 

[detel]

Greg, engaged the PTO and applied a 2x4 to see if I can get it to quit spinning and I couldn't! Disengaged and it stops itself. I am going to make more adjustments on the clutch tomorrow and see where that leads. I did re-adjust the PTO counter-clock wise 1 full turn and then re-adjust the clutch fingers and was able to get the tractor to move however, I can't give it too much peddle as it will (slip) or lose its drive-ability until I let off of the peddle and it grabs again.

 

[detel]

After adjusting the clutches based on all of the assistance I have received from this forum, I believe that I will have to split the tractor and replace the clutch. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to but I see no other option available. Goes like a bat out of heck in reverse but will move slow and then sped up in the forward gears until I give it more peddle and then it starts to slow down. Once I get it apart, I will see what I need and then order.

 

[erj]

Michael,
I have a Jinma 284 and I don't know if your transmission is similar to mine. But in the event that it might help – here is a drawing. Many years ago I was trying to understand how the various gears in my transmission worked. This is the drawing that I made to help myself. Hope that it might help with your 'confusing' situation.

 

[greg_g]

Goes like a bat out of heck in reverse but will move slow and then sped up in the forward gears until I give it more peddle and then it starts to slow down. Once I get it apart, I will see what I need and then order.

Assuming proper adjustments, slipping as it heats up is a definite indicator that - at a minimum - the friction disc on the drive clutch needs replacing. But replacing the whole clutchpack is good in more ways than one. First, you're starting out on an even playing field. Second - if you plan on keeping the tractor for a while - rebuilding the first clutchpack is a good learning experience. That then gives you a hot spare if/when the replacement wears out.

One thing though; don't assume the replacement clutchpack will be properly adjusted upon arrival. You should put it on the bench, and start your adjustments there. When the space between clutches is to spec, and the finger heights both to spec AND all equal in height, only then should you bolt it to the flywheel. While the tractor is split, replace both pilot bearing and throwout bearing. And if you want to go whole hog, pull the flywheel and housing. The gasket between the housing and engine block is a known leaker, and the bolts holding housing to engine are known to stretch. Replace gasket and all bolts with hardened equivalents. This should save having to split the tractor down the road for these two other known problems.

//greg//

 

[detel]

I have set the PTO at 30 thousands and the clutch fingers at 1/8" from the TOB while the clutch peddle was unhooked. I then attached the peddle to the arm with about an 1" free play. Checking the clutch fingers again, I have clearance between the fingers and the TOB. I'm thinking that with all of this in place, I should not have any slippage but I do. I don't hear it slipping nor do I smell any kind of a burnt smell but I have no other clue as to why it would (slip). Thanks for the info, Greg! Your knowledge on these tractors is priceless!

 

[detel]

I split the tractor in two, ordered and received new clutches, had to leave sit for a month and now I am back to reassemble however, I am looking for a photo to make sure that I have the clutches set in the right position. I believe that the extended lip on the clutch plates faces the rear of the tractor, can anyone verify this for me? Thank you!

 

[Affordable]

You are correct the big part to the rear

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[detel]

New clutches in, gaps set, hydraulics put back in place however, my clutch isn't releasing. Start it up, go to put it in gear and grinding. Turn it off, put it in gear, start it and it moves with the clutch depressed. Ahhhgggg!!!
Rechecked my adjustment on the three fingers and they are at 1/8". Any ideas before I proceed any further?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I would start by opening the inspection port and having an assistant push on the clutch pedal while you look and see if the fork and bearing move. There are a lot of linkages between the pedal and the bearing and sometimes they come loose.

Now that I've said that, I'll admit that when I replaced my clutch I put the spring for the PTO in backwards and had the same symptoms. You can read about it here:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/253904-pto-wont-engage-then-wont.html

The good news is that splitting the tractor goes much faster the second time.

 

[detel]

My PTO works like a charm without any grinding when engaging. However, the drive clutch is the one that is grinding. Once I get it in gear, there better not be anything in your way because it is going to move, doesn't matter if the clutch pedal is engaged or not, it's gonna move. Looks like I will be splitting it today to recheck how I put the clutch pack back together.
Did you ever figure out how to do the "stack height" while it was off of the tractor?
Thanks!