farm pro 2425 not charging

[bjr]

There's newer model Delco alternators out there, But, I just put on a wrecking yard $25, Delco 10si on my JM354. I did have pulley issues. The wider pulley for the 5/8" belt takes a long neck nut for the Delco alternator. I did run a 10 gauge wire from alternator output back to the starter post and also used somekind of Diode wire adapter $5, recommended by the local alternator/starter repair shop. I think I'm using the three wire system. Yeah, my China alternator took a dump after 5 yrs. I'm still on my original China batteries, though. bjr

 

[Bob Rooks]

i kinda know you all have said numerous times on here that the altenatoes are cheap and go out quick i think mine must be bad but tell me this
is there an easy way to check it?
why is there no big wire from the alt to battery?
what alt would i need to get to replace mine?
thanks in advance for your answers
Robert

The OEM alternators are only 14 amps max rated output. Don't expect miracles from them, especially if you are using your lights and/or any other electrical equipment. They don't need a "big" wire to run only 14 amps. The Delco 10 & 12 system integral (Si) alternators have the same footprint and require no mounting modifications. They even use the OEM pulley but you must install the lockwasher between the pulley and fan. I installed a 12 Si on my dozer and it works great.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I did run a 10 gauge wire from alternator output back to the starter post...

To clarify that statement, you mean you ran a 10 ga wire to the battery lug on the starter solenoid.

 

[Jinma284]

Since the OEM alternator is a sealed unit, and the Delco is not, I would expect to get more dust and dirt in the Delco on a tractor and then have more problems more often than with the OEM. Just a thought. Could you just install an adjustable regulator on the OEM and then turn it up when you are running your lights or otherwise need more volts. Most of the time it would be turned down and not creat as much heat on the inside of the alternator.

Pat

 

[Bob Rooks]

Since the OEM alternator is a sealed unit, and the Delco is not, I would expect to get more dust and dirt in the Delco on a tractor and then have more problems more often than with the OEM. Just a thought. Could you just install an adjustable regulator on the OEM and then turn it up when you are running your lights or otherwise need more volts. Most of the time it would be turned down and not creat as much heat on the inside of the alternator.
Pat

You don't want to go there with these alternators, the meager windings couldn't handle the load.

Prestolite also manufactures TEFC alternators for OEM and aftermarket applications, but at $360.00 for a 65 amp model I thought I would explore other options. I selected the 72 amp Delco 12Si with the closed face fan that draws cooling air through the rear of the alternator thus minimizing dust and water contamination, and eliminating the chance of rocks getting into the front.

Note: The OEM alternators are not sealed units, they are
Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled - TEFC. Sealed units are for use in hazardous/explosive environments, and they are VERY expensive.

 

[robert421960]

ok greg i finally got my cold start ford switch you suggested
the last part # in your post is what i used
well it is different than the chinese one and i tried matching # 1-4 and it didnt work
i looked at the pic diagram you sent and a little confused with it
my new switch is numbered 1-5 with no instructions

 

[greg_g]

As I stated before, there have been reported slight variations between/among some of the Ford cold start switches. Contact me via site private message. If you can get your hands on a multimeter, I can help you through figuring out which rear connections associate with which key positions

//greg//

 

[robert421960]

well thanks to greg and a multimeter i have gotten my new switch going
thanks Greg for all your great help