Farm Pro 2420 will not start

[Larry B]

I have a 2006 Farm Pro 2420 that I bought on ebay. I don't have a local dealer that I know of here in southwest Michigan. I have 2 problems and 1 irritation.

1. It won't start now. It started fine about 3 months ago but not now. It cranks over fine, and the glow plugs are working. Glow red after about 25 seconds and draw about 1o amps each to start. The hand pump on the fuel/injector pump did originally cycle fuel back to the tank, but then I thought the fuel might be bad so I drained the tank through the banjo bolt at the pump. Now there is no sign of the fuel cycling back to the tank. There is a screw with a ring through it that I though would be a vent, so I cracked it and drained a little fuel but that did not help. I did not get a new fuel filter because the fuel cycled back to the tank when the hand pump was used initially. Spraying a little starting fluid in the breather makes it want to run for a few seconds but won't continue to run. I did take the air filter out and it is like new so I did not replace it.

2. If it ever runs again, I would like to fix the PTO. First it would not engage, and then I played with the lever for a while, and now it will not disengage. The PTO stops with the clutch, but it always runs when the clutch is released, regardless of what you do with the PTO lever.

3. (irritation) I also have the slow hydraulic problem. Changing out the fluid did help a bit, but it still takes 10 minutes or so for the 3 point hitch hydraulics to start working. Longer in the winter.

 

[greg_g]

1. If your hand primer doesn't return fuel to the tank, it should be replaced. When it's working again, resist the temptation to use starting fluid. Remove the fuel filter and top it up with clean fuel. Replace. Work the new hand primer till you hear fuel returning to the tank. Loosen the hardlines at the injectors (hex collar), crank the engine. Bubbles will come out first. When you see raw fuel flow, tighten that hardline. The tractor may or may not start. If it does, tighten the other hex collars before the engine dies. If it does die, crank some more - tightening each hex collar as the bubbles turn into raw fuel. The engine should be running by now.
2. There are two levers related to the PTO. Right side is for engage/disengage. Left side is speed select lever. But even when completely disengaged with both levers, the stub will still turn. That's due to parasitic action inside the tranny. It's nothing to worry about. To confirm, shut down the engine. Disengage both levers. Try to turn the stub by hand. If it turns, you're disengaged. If it doesn't, then there's something wrong inside the tranny.
3. Wrong fluid and/or clogged suction screen. Most folks use AW32 hydraulic fluid (10W equivalent), AW46 or AW64 in hot climates (20W equivalent). Suction screen is inside the sump (beneath the operator seat). Look for a cover plate on the left side; 3 bolts and a steel line in the center. Underneath that you'll find the suction screen. The screen has likely collapsed, so you should be prepared with a new one in hand. Get a new cover plate gasket too.

//greg//

 

[Willl]

And put that starting fluid away.

Oh ya, and welcome to TBN.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I agree with Willl, never, ever use starting fluid.:thumbsup:

 

[Affordable]

You have to get fuel pumping and returning back to the tank,then bleed off the injectors

On the PTO it could be several things,from PTO clutch adjustment,Shift lump ,

Drain and flush the hydraulics replace with AW032 oil.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[RonMar]

The screw with the ring thru it is a vent for the fuel pump body. There is another bolt up on top of the fuel filter housing that needs to be bled. If you drained the fuel from the banjo down on the pump, you pretty much filled the whole system with air which needs to be bled off. If you cranked the engine in this condition, the injector hardlines are also full of air. Loosen the bolt on top of the filter and try the hand pump again. It is not a real high volume or forcefull pump, so it may not work if the filter is airbound. Once you get just fuel at the filter, bleed the pump body again. Once you only have fuel at these points, you must bleed the injector hardlines. The only way to do this is how Greg described, loosen the fittings at the injectors and crank the engine over. Using the compression release here saves wear on the starter. Once you get fuel at the fittings, tighten them down and it should run... One silly question... Is the fuel valve under the tank on? Mine is on when the handle is vertical.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The whole crew gave you good advise. This should get you running.

Chris

 

[Larry B]

Wow! I'm overwhelmed. Thank You all for the help.

1. I had gone ahead and replaced the fuel filter and bled the system because there is rust on the inside of the fuel tank fill pipe. The hand pump finally started working after a few minutes (quite a few) of pumping. I moved from the pump to the filter inlet, outlet, injector pump inlet, and injector pump outlet to the tank return, cracking fittings and using the hand pump for pressure and bled until I got solid fuel flow. I do hear what sounds like flow back to the tank when pumping the hand pump, but I made the mistake of filling the tank completely with fresh fuel previously, so I can't see the fuel return inside the tank now. After reading the advice, I did bleed at the bolt on top of the fuel filter and got solid fuel. Trying to bleed at the hardlines to the injectors resulted in just a drop or 2 of fuel from #1, and nothing from #2 and #3. Same results while cranking and cracking the hardlines at the top of the injector pump. Then I removed all 3 hardlines from the top of the injector pump, cranked the motor and all I got was a very small amount of bubbles/foaming at the #1 port. With the hardlines removed, the fittings on the top of the injector pump are full of fuel, but the only thing that happens when I crank it with the starter is the little bubbles/foam at #1. Seems to me like the pump is either plugged, completely failed, or something else broke so it isn't being driven. I have refrained from further work until I hear back from you folks because I don't want to tear into it and find out I needed to do something simple. By the way, good question on the fuel shutoff valve, but yes I did verify that.

#2. I can change speeds of the pto with the speed selector, but engage/disengage does nothing. Also, the pto isn't just coasting. It runs the brush hog fine when the engine runs, or at least it did. Since the tractor doesn't run right now, all I did was to try to roll the drive shaft to the brush hog and it won't move unless I (actually my wife) push in the clutch.

#3. The fluid I used to refill the hydraulics doesn't give me a weight. It is service pro , sp 00587 but does not say what weight it is. If I have to drain the reservior to get to the pto drive to repair it, I will make sure I refill with lighter weight fluid.

I know it is a long response, but if anybody is inclined to give me some more feedback I would appreciate it. Thanks

 

[greg_g]

1. Injection pump's not working. Did you check the pump oil level?
2. the engage/disengage may be broken. If it's not the roll pin that hold the lever to the shaft, then it might be the shift lump inside. However, there is a psuedo-neutral position on the PTO speed select lever. One direction the lever gives you 540 rpm, the other direction is either 720 or 1000. In between is the psuedo-neutral.
3. don't know what you might have gotten ahold of, but under the Service-Pro label, the AW32 you should be using is marked SPL26697 http://www.service-pro.com/documents/lubs/lubs_hydraulics/SP-WNAWHYD.pdf

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

You say you are getting no fuel at the injectors but good flow everywhere else?

Did you first fill the filter with fresh fuel before installing? It may still be air in the filter. Top it off and try again.

Chris