Farm Pro 2420 Tractor

greg_g · Apr 27, 2004

I found my hard-shifting lever-sticking problem to be the Asian 30wt oil that came in the transmission. Drained all, flushed twice with kerosene, refilled with non-foaming 75W90. Once all the metal shavings and sludge deposits were flushed out and a decent gear oil put back in, the hard shifting and sticking 4wd lever were a thing of the past.

Noisy transmissions are typical - as long as the noise is just that aggravating whine. Anything else may be cause for concern. Having said that, my creeper lever always stays in HI. Dunno what kinda noise it makes in LO. And typical hydraulic noise would generally come from farther forward than the transmission.

303 in those hydraulics will likely be frustrating in cold weather though; too thick. My Jinma hydraulics got the same drain and kerosene flush treatment, then refilled with AW32 (10wt).

My Yanmar manual specified that level checks are to be made with the dipstick threads sitting on the hole, not screwed back in. The Jinma books don't specify, so I do them the Yanmar way too.

When I upgraded to American radiator hoses, a disgusting brown mess came out of the block. You may eventually find your radiator and water jackets are filthy too. So think about putting cooling system cleaning on your TO DO list also.

//greg//

WildBill99 · Apr 28, 2004

Hey, thanks for the info guys! Sounds like I have some work to do.

I cant figure why every oil level would be low other then just sorriness on someones part. I havent checked the oil in the injector pump yet, but I am sure I need to! On the plus side, it was 1000 bucks cheaper then the same tractor with NORTRAC on the side.

greg_g · Apr 28, 2004

( On the plus side, it was 1000 bucks cheaper then the same tractor with NORTRAC on the side.
)
Don't be surprised if you revisit that statement, after you've had a while to sample the support-after-sale

//greg//

WildBill99 · Apr 28, 2004

( ( On the plus side, it was 1000 bucks cheaper then the same tractor with NORTRAC on the side.
)
Don't be surprised if you revisit that statement, after you've had a while to sample the support-after-sale

//greg// )

Honestly, I didnt go into this expecting any. I was looking for a used tractor and saw the fact that this was new as a bonus. I work on cars a lot (and I'm a Mechanical Engineer) so I hopefully will be able to figure out what's what. Also, I like to do all my own work, its how I learn and its cheaper, usually (until I get out the hammer and destroy something) I was wanting a decent shop manual but I guess they dont make one in english. I went to that website, but the links to the maint info didnt work.

My only concern about using gear oil in the trans is will that harm it in any way? For instance, lots of folks put 90w gear oil in mustang T-5's only to have it destroy the trans that was intended for ATF. So, I dont want to mess up my shiney new tractor, but at the same time, I dont like the way it shifts worth a darn and would like to try switching if that will help.

greg_g · Apr 28, 2004

( I went to that website, but the links to the maint info didnt work.)

If you're talking about JohnsTractor, all the links still work normally for me. Maybe your computer is blocking cookies? And you won't find a shop manual in English - anywhere. Short of a printed owner's manual in broken English, best you can find is compilation sites (user contributions) like John's.

I don't know of any 2420s sold with shuttles yet, so it's almost certainly a gear transmission. And a pretty uncomplicated one at that - not even any synchros to worry about. I guess I just don't understand reluctance to use gear oil - in a geared tranny.

//greg//

SPIKER · Apr 28, 2004

the trans in the T5 vs the jinma is way different type of gears, the t5 are helical cut, and never touch each other only the thin film of oil stops the contact, with the THICKER oil the oil does not FLOW between the gears fast enough (in essiance the gears get air between them as discused about the foaming issue with the gear oil) however the china gears are straight cut, so oil is going to get in there but again too thick is still not good and can cause some added wear if it is driven in creeper gearing all the time (causes a smaller shaft to spin at greater RPM. and makes a LOT of whine) anyhow the old 60 heavy duty trans had straight cut gears too they are the strongest types as they are designed to meet metal to metal... they will actually BREAK IN and wear into each other in a fine MESH so that is why it is important to change the oil and flush after about 10 hrs and you are also susposed to RUN IN the tractor for 10 min in EACH gear in EVERY hi/lo combo... prior to the flush & re-fill. I did this on the DAY of my oil change. and lightly used the tractor for the first 9 hrs and ran her around the farm in high speed fassion for the last hr. Pulled her up to the changeing spot and dumped the oils and flushed trans and hyd tank (don't run with diesel in the hyd tank though, just rinse with it. maybe follow the photos that Greg (I think) posted about pulling the seat & top of hyd tank and cleaning ...)

anyhow I changed to the new spec FORD stuff, NGL8 or something like that which is better than the standard gylcol antifreeze. it is what is required for all fords now and has been for any aluminum and steel sleved block for a few years.) it was about 9 bucks a gal though... (ZETEX is what I used)

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

greg_g · Apr 28, 2004

15 quarts. May as well buy a 5 gallon bucket. Most non-foaming are synthetic or synthetic blends. Only two "regular" gear oils I've come up with so far are AmRep's Thrifty (the old Amway I think) and Shell's Spirax. AmRep states non-foaming, Shell says "anti-foaming". Can't tell you right now if there's any difference.

But you'll not get that much out the first time you drain. Ya gotta refill with kerosene (or diesel if you prefer), flush, and drain. I did it twice. Amazing how you can put 3 gal kerosene IN, and get 5 gallons of crud back OUT.

And I'm not sure what your problem is with JohnsTractor. I went back and checked again. No problem. The JM254 maint manual link is below. Maybe it will work from here.

//greg// JM254 manual

WildBill99 · Apr 29, 2004

Wow, thats a lot of crud! Your link works, I was going somewhere else on his site I guess.

Thanks!

JohnS · Apr 29, 2004

WildBill,

You are probably talking about the links to Maverick Tractor. Mike Stuart has gone off to other endevours, and the website is not being hosted at this time. Most of those articles have been posted on the CTOA board. I was unable to find his "Recommended Fluids" page.

SPIKER · Apr 29, 2004

right now I would diesel as you know kerosene is more expensive! at least around here kero is almost $2 per gallon. fuel is only 1.79 lol

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

OrangeGuy · Jul 20, 2004

Wow! After reading this thread, I realize what a bargain my new 2003, manufactured in 2003, Kubota tractor is. I really have to hand it to those of you with the patience, skill and perseverence to own and operate Chinese tractors. I would have gone nuts by now with some of the problems you have encountered.

SPIKER · Jul 21, 2004

not sure orange guy:

but I'll put mine to the test aginst you'res /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

bet I paid less by far bot the amount of equipment.

Mark m /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

OrangeGuy · Jul 22, 2004

Mark m,

Hey not trying to ruffle any feathers... I am confident that you did pay less for your tractor. Perhaps I should have elaborated a bit more on my statement. I was refering to "total cost of ownership (TCO)"; original purchase price, 5, 10, 15 year maintenance costs, increased productivity features like hydrostatic and resale value. TCO drives value. I chose to invest more upfront to increase the value of my purchase.

Also as I implied, I have no patience for breakdowns.

It looks like we are both looking for "value". Our approaches are different, but if we reach our "perceived value" we should be happy.

OrangeGuy

SPIKER · Jul 22, 2004

orange guy:

tco is somethign I too am concerned about, one reason I bought what I did, JINMAs have been produced for almost 40 years. parts are very availalbe and are cheap compaired to other tractor parts, just for giggles I PRICED rebuild of injector pump, something like $450, my NEW one is only $120.00 plus shipping if it is not local enough to go get, dealers will add cost on but anyone can buy dirrectly from china now and ship UPS or FED EX. no need to buy from the local kub dealer. as far as re-sale, JINMAS are selling as much used as a wise on the subject guy can buy NEW for so not sure where that keep popping up at resale is not an issue to me anyhow as I intend to KEEP mine untill I get a 2nd one and then I'll work both untill I feel no longer NEED both. then I'll sell it for a good deal more than I paid considering how much use I've already gotten out of it more than I paid for it I could scrap it and make out.
asa for hydrostat: true I don't have that, but then I didn't want that, if I had I would have looked at the big 3 more, but even the gear drive prices I had I couldn't afford from them. I did look at the centures and AGROs. very nice still more than I wanted to pay but for a bit more tractor thatn I need or needed. Maintenance wise, I can fix repair torubleshoot and resulve just about any issue for any kind of machine, from computers (build my own) to cars, with Multiport electronic ignigtion... and yes even my lowly diesle tractor which I admit broke a few times, (oil press gauge died, hose blew after a major crash into an immovable object and my clutch needed adjusting) granted these are minor and could have been done by anyone, but constantly seening posts where you are in the china forum stating they are all junk or to buy orange or big three or that they made a mistake is not productive and while you can have you're oppinion posting these things to the china forum when someone had/has a problem does not help them and is only attempting to give you're self an ego boost for making the RIGHT decision on buying the Kub.

what is TCO for you is not the same for everyone here, and if someone is in the china forum they are seeking advice from people who actually HAVE one adn can tell them the truth not what is percieved to be a problem with what they are asking.

please don't get me wrong, I'm not gripping yelling or anthing, it just gets tiering hearing all the same things from different people who admitedly by their own words don't ownn one of the tractors, but they talk as if they DO know and know they are right and that the china tractors are all POS and should be turned into scrap metal and only if that scrap metal was going to be used to build break walls as well all know that the steel isn't woth diddly...

also I'm not angry or mad, just pointing out that this is the CHINA forum not the KUB forum. and yes we could go into those forums and post similar things but why?

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

ty290 farm pro · Aug 27, 2013

hello I have a farm pro 2420 I want to put new fluids in my tractor I was reading what all people said my ?is what did you put in your trans and rear end on your tractor

Rich Waugh · Aug 27, 2013

The Transmission, rear axle and front drive assembly all get 80W-90 gear oil. The lift box/power steering gets AW32 hydraulic fluid. The engine gets 15W40 diesel motor oil, as does the injector pump.