Farm fencing - augers vs post pounders

[mikester]

I've got sandy soil with gravelly patches. I have a 3PH 6" auger and I want to put in some page wire fencing with 8" cedar posts. My experience is the auger works ok but I have to do a lot of clean up using the hand post hole shovels and I'm getting a little bit old for that work. I priced out getting fence installed last spring but everyone is so busy prices have skyrocketed to the moon.

My question is does a post pounder start making sense considering I have only 16GPM and 2400psi hydraulics? Do the job then sell it?

Another option is to get a hydraulic auger with a bigger bit and run it off my FEL or BH.

I am asking for peoples feedback who have experience using these post pounders AND augers in sand/gravel soils. Good, bad or indifferent?

I keep hoping for a recession to re-adjust prices and labour shortages but that might be pie in the sky and I've already been expecting one for 15 years now...

 

[sea2summit]

Sounds like you have enough flow to me, doesn’t actually take a lot form what I’ve read. Boils down to cost, auger is $400-1000 where the pounders start 3,000ish and go up.

 

[JCoastie]

I'm looking at a FEL hydraulic auger myself, for the same reason, not getting any younger or any more mobile.
I only have ~8GPM of flow on my CUT. They aren't crazy expensive, and something to keep on hand, not sell when done if you have the room to store it.

 

[jfsawatzky]

Hydraulic post hole diggers were 2 to 3 k cdn… but are likely more now. Have you considered buying a larger auger for your existing hphd ? Is the make and model still in production? If not, maybe you could retrofit an auger from a different manufacturer.

 

[oldnslo]

Been 40 years since I have used a 3 point hitch post pounder on 3010 JD but from what I remember

Posts are solid as soon as driven no tamping settling etc.

If post hits obstacle it can or will move sideways so posts will not be in a straight line.

Was challenging to get posts straight since was no angle adjustment on this pounder. Possibly be a concern for a decorative fence vs pasture fence.

Would drive 8” post in hard ground, just drove slower than 4”.

Sharpening or putting point on ends of posts helped especially for larger sizes.

We frequently made our own posts so not always strait and true but kept the cattle on our side of the fence.

I have observed newer Danuser pounders for quick hitch and they have option to grip post, angle side to side and tilt from loader. Some might have side shift but not sure on that. Your tractor would have adequate flow to run these but no clue on weight and cost. Note have never operated one.

 

[m5guy]

I bought a fence pounder. I got the hd8 model from kenvove. I bought it for the same reason you are stating. I can put 10 4" posts in an hour. I have mostly clay and rocks. I run it on my smallest tractor. It needs very little hydraulic power. If your around sw Michigan I will rent you mine.

 

[LouNY]

The post pounder will put post down and they are good and solid. The required hydraulic flow is minimal. Many pounders do require a non-restricted fluid return line (open ended hose shoved into the fill port).

We prefer to mount it on the fel as it is easier to reach into the existing fence row, and up into the old fence lines and stone walls, rather then having to back up tight to the fence line. Also works very well on steep road sides and such.
It does make it more of a two person job, one driving the tractor and adjusting the loader height and curl and the other driving the posts. It can be done by one but two makes it faster and easier.

 

[Fixastuff]

I made a post hammer for the excavator and like it. Did a couple horse farm fences and made decent $ with it. I prefer hammering in flat bottom posts because they go in straighter.

 

[redman135]

I am in New Zealand, and what you call post pounder we call post rammer, or post driver. We only use post rammers on ag fencing. Decide where you want your strainers and angles ram them in and setup 2 wires to give you your line and vertical then ram in your posts.
As Fixastuff says use flat bottom posts as they drive straight. Chainsawing a point accuratly is difficult(off centre points will walk posts off line) and not recommended. Machine pointed posts are a different story.
Look at kinghitter.com for an idea what to expect(only brand I could think of)
I recommend using a contractor for the posts, as buying a post rammer is pricey. If you opt to buy MAKE SURE the valves don't have a DEAD SPOT(cheap brands do) that lets the monkey (weight) drop as you are lifting slowly to a precise height. My boss has a cheap rammer and this is a trap to be aware off before starting any ramming.

 

[mikester]

Hydraulic post hole diggers were 2 to 3 k cdn… but are likely more now. Have you considered buying a larger auger for your existing hphd ? Is the make and model still in production? If not, maybe you could retrofit an auger from a different manufacturer.

I've thought about changing the auger bit but there's the appeal of going hydraulic because I can reverse direction and I can mount on the FEL or BH.