F-220

/ F-220 #31  
I had that exact lock deal on my YM2002, I removed it and made one I could slide up and down so I could set how high I wanted to lift. My book doesn't say anything about the purpose of it. How about swiveling it out of the way and with tractor running "slowly" raise handle past it and see what happens. Nothing on mine except the lift goes higher. As long as your system doesn't begin to overpressure I can't see how raising it past there could hurt. As far as your starting goes, I believe everything is good. In my opinion you are going to need a strong battery without a compression release. I'm not sure where it is you are energizing the heating element. Is the middle light the one that goes with it? Just didn't seem you had to wait long enough for it to heat up before busting off.
 
/ F-220 #32  
Yes, it is that middle one. Right now the temperature is high, so this light turns off quickly.

The question is: is there any possibility of damaging the hydraulic system by rising this leaver above that lock? The joystick and the hydraulic pomp leaks a bit. It isn't something serious but you can see some red drops (hydraulic fluid). The guy who had sold me this yanmar told me not to remove this lock because it may damage the hydraulic system.
 
/ F-220 #33  
I can't guarantee anything from where I'm at but I would not be afraid to slowly move the lever back while listening for over pressuring and engine pull. Are there any implements on the back that might hit something if the lift goes higher? The red fluid sounds like automatic transmission fluid which has been deemed as good for colder climates. As far as your cranking goes, I don't know just how cold it gets there but you may have to consider adding a block heater or magnetic heater to assist some.
 
/ F-220 #34  
This lock may be to use with the factory tiller. (i dont have one) But they appear that with the factory bracket they attach kind of odd and maybe will hit the seat or wheels, if that lock is not in position. It is obviously designed to be moved, thats why there is another hole, yanmar would not have designed a tractor , as far as im concerned, that would have a little "easily moved stop" that if moved would damage the hydraulics if moved. I think they would have just limited travel to that position where the stop is if it would damage it with out having it in. Like i said its probably designed to be moved out of the way with a dish harrow or cutter of some sort. I too wont gaurentee it but i really dont think it will hurt.
 
/ F-220 #35  
Here is another video showing cold start. Today is -4 deg. C. At the first time the jumper box is not plugged in. You can see how the battery light (first from left) fades away during cranking. When the jumper box is connected it seems cranking is a bit faster. Still the light fades away :( and still yanmar refuses to start. It took four more times to start the engine (second video)

Right now I'm sure the preheating system works fine so it can't be the reason. I'd say it is dead battery :mad: Yesterday it was fully charged.

YouTube - Yanmar -4 cold start with jumper box

YouTube - yanmar f 220 and jumper box
 
/ F-220 #36  
No doubt, engine is not turning fast enough for a good crank. Backing up a bit, I'm sure you have cleaned all you battery connections ruling out bad connections. Right? Thick oil makes turning much more difficult. Block heater of some sort would help but you no doubt need more cranking amps. In that weather you are going to need the highest output battery you can fit in there. At least that is my opinion. Did you try slowly raising the lift handle past the stop?
 
/ F-220 #37  
Did not watch you last posted video, but if you have to have a jumper box connected your battery is old and weak. As winston said a oil pan heater will thin the oil allowing it to crank faster. I would get a new battery, you will be amazed at how much faster it will spin. My truck battery is old and going and this mourning, almost did not crank in the cold. If its 70F there is no problem, older batteries get weak and cant hold thier charge as long or as much of a charge. The cold will show a bad battery fast.
 
/ F-220 #38  
According to this video:
YouTube - Kubota Battery Basics
the 850 cold cranking amps is minimum. So if i have only 680 EN ( I have found out that EN stand for "European standard" and it is the same as CCA) Should I look for something bigger? There is some free space around the battery so I think I should be able to fit something bigger.

I have cleaned all battery connections. So that is not what causes that problem. I'd buy this Block heater If it was available. It seems you can't get one here in Poland :(
I haven't tried to lift it. Maybe tomorrow I'll try to lift it above that lock.
 
/ F-220 #39  
Physical size doesn't have to mean better although in some cases it does. Main thing is highest rating you can fit into your space. Sellers of battery's should be able to help you with that.
 
/ F-220 #40  
You need to keep your battery warm. A new fully charged battery at room temp. only has 1/2 charge at 0*F. A shop light and blanket on the battery works wonders.
 

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