Extra remotes on a TC24D

[SacandagaBrad]

I checked with my dealer the other day on this regarding being able to run my hydraulic chute on the snowblower and add a hydraulic top link. He suggested running a separate line from the system that supplies the FEL as a source of power to a top link as the neatest, plumber's-nightmare-free approach. He would tap into the "power beyond" port, replacing the metal line with a flex rubber line to a valve located somewhere on the fender, with the return dumping back into the rear axle. He said this is basically how the machine is set up when they add a BH. It sounded reasonable to me given my limited understanding of the hydraulic system.

Has anybody tried this?

Brad

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( He would tap into the "power beyond" port, replacing the metal line with a flex rubber line to a valve located somewhere on the fender, with the return dumping back into the rear axle. He said this is basically how the machine is set up when they add a BH. It sounded reasonable to me given my limited understanding of the hydraulic system.
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His suggestion will work for a backhoe since when a backhoe that uses tractor hydraulics is connected, the 3pt and anything down stream from the tap, is disabled. You would effectively be doing the same.

To properly plumb an additional valve you have to place it in SERIES with all other valves. You cannot just tap into a pressure line and expect everything to work properly.

There are several posts in the NH and other forums that explain how to properly make the connections.

 

[RickB]

If you install exactly as I read it, you will have no hitch. The standard NH backhoe plumbing arrangement disables the hitch for safety reasons AND because most, if not all hoe valves are not power beyond capable which is necessary to power the downstream hitch valve. To properly power the hitch, the added valve in the suggested location would need to be a power beyond capable valve identical in design to your FEL valve. It would have IN, RETURN, and PB ports as well as the work ports feeding the cylinder(s). Maybe this is what he has in mind, but I didn't get that from your description. It would be a lot "cleaner" to add the single aux remote valve and an electric solenoid operated multiplier to split the circuit IMHO. Don't let them feed the hitch from the "out" port of a simple open center valve, the spool seals probably won't hack it.

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> It would be a lot "cleaner" to add the single aux remote valve and an electric solenoid operated multiplier to split the circuit IMHO. </font>

We agree that adding a multiplier would make a clean installation. Surplus Center offers a few different styles at good prices, just ordered two ourselves.