Extending Draft Links

[tessiers]

I Need some extending draft links

They cost $500.00 new, so

I am going to build them. Has anyone else tried this?

I have an old set of bent Cat 2 links to model after they are 1 1/4" bar inside of 1 3/4" x 3/16" square tube

Mine is a 30 hp Cat 1

So Far I am looking at 1 1/2" x 3/16" Square tubing for the outside and 1" Square Bar Stock for the inside. Weld on Ball ends from Tractor Supply. Not Sure on the catch mechanism.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

 

[charlie C]

Tessiers, The picture is what I am going to make in the near feature. Maybe it will give you some ideas. This one is for a ford 4000 tractor.

 

[3RRL]

Are you talking about the lower drag links or arms, or the stabilizers like Charlie shows in his photo? If they are the lower drag links, I'd consider making them as heavy a construction as I could if you have the room.

 

[jinman]

I Need some extending draft links

They cost $500.00 new, so

Would you buy instead of build if they were $300 each? I think I'd look around at other tractor models and see if I could find a set that will fit. You might be pleasantly surprised. For example, each extendable arm assembly for a New Holland TC33D is $319.

 

[bota7800]

The telescoping lift arms for B series Kubotas are $393 for the pair at tractorsmart.

The system looks useful. Is it a lot better than using Pat's hooks? I am debating between the two.

 

[jinman]

The system looks useful. Is it a lot better than using Pat's hooks? I am debating between the two.

They are actually different functions. The Pat's system allows you to connect the lower links by putting them under the hitch pins and raising the 3PH. The extendable links allow you to get close by backing up and then be able to manually attach by adjusting the length of each arm independently. Some people have installed the Pat's system on the end of the adjustable links, but I think if you don't have some way of attaching the toplink automatically, you might as well get off the tractor and hook up all 3 points by hand. I can tell you that having a hydraulic toplink is the "cat's meow" for attaching the toplink. I also really like my adjustable length sidelinks. I've never felt I needed the Pat's system.

One additional thing you have to consider with Pat's system is that it changes the geometry of your 3PH by extending the lower links. You may need a longer toplink to compensate for the additional length. This is more of a problem with those of us who have hydraulic toplinks than it is with most factory OEM toplinks.

 

[LetsRoll]

Some people have installed the Pat's system on the end of the adjustable links, but I think if you don't have some way of attaching the toplink automatically, you might as well get off the tractor and hook up all 3 points by hand. I can tell you that having a hydraulic toplink is the "cat's meow" for attaching the toplink. I also really like my adjustable length sidelinks. I've never felt I needed the Pat's system.

Thats your opinion which your entitled to have. But the adjustable lower links dont always allow you to get them hooked up the first time. With pats system, that is not a problem getting them hooked up the first time.

One additional thing you have to consider with Pat's system is that it changes the geometry of your 3PH by extending the lower links. You may need a longer toplink to compensate for the additional length. This is more of a problem with those of us who have hydraulic toplinks than it is with most factory OEM toplinks.

I have the lower adjustable links, Pats system and a hydraulic top link and I dont have a problem. My hydraulic cylinder is the same length as my OEM toplink. And I didn't have to shorten or get a longer PTO shaft for any of my PTO driven implements.


Just because you dont like Pats system, does not mean the rest us doesn't like it. Pats system has made it allot eaiser for hooking up implements and I recommend Pats system to anyone.

 

[jinman]

Just because you dont like Pats system, does not mean the rest us doesn't like it. Pats system has made it allot eaiser for hooking up implements and I recommend Pats system to anyone.

I cannot recall saying I do not like the Pat's system. I reread my post and I clearly did not say anything that could be considered as dislike. What I did point out to the previous poster was the difference in function between Pat's system and the extendable lower links. I stated that you still had to get off the tractor to hook up the toplink and that the Pat's system does change the geometry of the lower links.

I'm very pleased that your addition of the Pat's system is serving you well and that your toplink still works for all your needs. I'll even go so far as to say that is probably the case in most installations. However, I have read in these forums of people experiencing problems with those changes however slight they may have been.

Let me be even more clear. I think the Pat's system is an excellent product, but its function is different from extendable links. They are similar only in that they both make hooking up the 3PH easier. Since I have never had a problem hooking up with my extendable links, I don't think I personally need the Pat's system. But if I did not have those extendable links, I can see myself buying the Pat's system and being happy with it.

The original poster in this thread indicated that $500 per lower link seemed like a high enough price that he was going to build his own extendable links. I would surely recommend he look at the Pat's system as an alternative.

 

[tessiers]

A Little long but here goes

First of all I have the pats system hanging on the wall of my barn. OK with a few attachments but some of my attachments don't like to go into them, in particular my snow blower.

Both my father and I worked on a Dairy farm on and off for many years and are accustomed to extending draft links such as on a larger tractor.

These are more for my father than for myself. He is 60 and has a hard time hooking up heavy attachments by himself. He took the Pats system off although I was dealing with it because I thought it helped him, but I guess not.

I have measured about 1000 (a little exaggerated) different tractors and found a lot that might work with a little modifying. Still looking at several hundred dollars. So Far I have about $30 in the project, and I intend to keep it under $100.


I found the weld on ball ends at TCS and bought 1 to try, so far so good. I work for large steel fabrication and erection Company, so fabing steel is what I do. I am about 1/2 way through my project and will try to get some pictures tomorrow. I have the end that hooks to the tractor complete with 1 1/2"x3/16" square tubing. A friend of mine in the engineering department has run some numbers and I should be in great shape as far as strength goes.
The lift arm is complete with 5/8" All thread and a swivel to adjust the grade on the draft arms. The sway link is complete with 2 salvaged turn buckles, and a few chain links for the adjustments side to side. The extension piece is complete with 1" square solid bar stock, with the rear ball end on it. The only piece left to fab is the catch mechanism for the extensions. Our drafting department has drawn up some sketches of a hook type catch that will hook over a wedge on the bar stock. My shop should have the two hooks cut tomorrow, so I can complete this project Saturday. The wedge on the bar stock will act to lift the hook when I back up and lock in automatically when I get all the way in. Gravity is supposed to hold the hooks down but I am going to modify the design slightly to accommodate a spring to hold it in case it vibrates or wiggles loose.

 

[jinman]

The NH system uses a pocket on the end of the lift-arm. The extension slides into that pocket and is held in place by a spring-loaded latch. The latch has a pin that fits into a L-shaped galley in the slide. When the slide is all the way in, it latches. When unlatched, it is free to slide as needed. I've included an attachment to show the detailed parts.