Experience with spray foam insulation?

[gsganzer]

I'm having our crawl space done with closed cell foam. They'll spray the underside of our floor with 2". Cost is about $2400 to do 1200 square feet. Crawl spaces have a $.50/ft upcharge due to the added time. I think closed cell is used more in applications where it has sheathing or drywall over it to act as the moisture barrier. Closed cell performs both functions.

 

[forgeblast]

You could always ask for quotes, find out what they would do price it out yourself and see if you can do it for cheap. I am sure there is a builder to two in the area who have dealt with this before.

 

[Cord]

There are several problems with foam; UV stability when exposed and flame spread/smoke generation when burned. Read the mfr instructions to see if it's rated for exposure. ASTM E84 is the test it would need to comply with. If it doesn't comply, then it (your family) should be protected with a layer of drywall

Closed cell foam works great as a vapor barrier. But as mentioned previously, I'd be concerned about mold. I'd rather see you address the source of the moisture and try to remove it instead of trying to address some of the resulting problems. Although not permanent, a second dehumidifier sounds prudent.

Lowering the humidity levels below the dew point will also help ward off problems such as dry rot and powderpost.

 

[Oldpath05]

And I thought spray was spray foam, never knew about open cell/close cell, as one poster mention>>> Foam it Green 22 Spray Foam Insulation Kit | Fire Retardant

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I am voting for moisture barrier on the outside first. That mortar may be wicking moisture in. Once that is taken care of I'd be more interested in foaming the inside. Gets some quotes and see what it comes in at, I was quoted at $0.50 a board foot for open and a dollar a board foot for closed.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I did a kit from foam it green .com. I prepped everything to spray one day and be done. They give you a lot of tips. If you stop spraying for 30 seconds-1 min throw the tip out. Its that easy. I had a lot left over. The biggest thing I had happen was splatter, I had one spot where my tarp did not cover the floor and when I was changing a tip the foam on the tip of the tip fell and hit the tile. I also had my tyvek coveralls push up on my arm and I lost a bit of hair on my arm when a drop of foam hit my arm.
Other then that it was like having two propane tanks, easy to use and not bad a all.

Thanks, this is exactly the kind of first-hand experience I'm looking for.

Good advise to address the moisture issues first. From my DIY experience spraying a 30 x 60 metal shop. Hire a pro if at all possible!! Don't expect to get anywhere near the claimed coverage - maybe 2/3 fill at best. Most miserable job I have ever done - you will need full coverage Tyvek overalls, full face mask(s), high quality air mask, clothes/shoes you don't mind destroying, several spare nozzles, maybe even a spare hose. The over-spray goes everywhere, expect to spend a LOT of time on cleanup. You will be left with empty tanks that may be hard to dispose of. Temperature and humidity MUST be as recommend by the mfg. Surface needs to be clean. If you stop spraying for more than 30 seconds, the nozzle WILL clog. -- Good luck if you decide to DIY it.

This too. Thanks.

 

[Tomtint]

I built my home 7 years ago and used open cell everywhere, Walls and roof. I'm 100% pleased with the results. Our home is about 4K sf total and my heating is with oil. We use about 450 gallons a year and I keep it at 70*. If I had gone with traditional batt insulation I would expect to use 2-3X that amount