Ever change a Kubota dual stage clutch?

[SouthernSky]

My tractor clutch froze up after sitting up for a while. I tried bumping a tree and it freed it up. Still, there is loud noise now whenever I depress the clutch and the PTO handle jumps out of gear when turning a load (like a bushhog) but spins fine when no attachment is attached. The consensus is the dual stage clutch is messed up (but I welcome all opinions!!!)

According to the WSM for my Kubota L2650, I need a special "clutch center tool", Kubota Code No. 07916-90052, which I'm unable to find anywhere.

Is this tool really needed?

Any advice or guidance on doing this job? A newbie like me would welcome your thoughts and experiences!

 

[brain55]

It is much easier with the tool, but it can still be done. You can use the flywheel as the base and then use a wooden dowel with tape wrapped around it to the right diameter to fit the splines on the discs, or if you or a buddy has a lathe, you can make a pilot tool that way, I believe the WSM has the dimensions in it. I have the Kubota tool but have done it the other way on different machines.

Brian

 

[rbargeron]

My tractor clutch froze up after sitting up for a while. I tried bumping a tree and it freed it up. Still, there is loud noise now whenever I depress the clutch and the PTO handle jumps out of gear when turning a load (like a bushhog) but spins fine when no attachment is attached. The consensus is the dual stage clutch is messed up (but I welcome all opinions!!!)

According to the WSM for my Kubota L2650, I need a special "clutch center tool", Kubota Code No. 07916-90052, which I'm unable to find anywhere.

Is this tool really needed?

I have changed the 2-stage clutch on an L345 - very similar to your L2650. A centering tool is definitely needed - but can be improvised as Brian points out. I borrowed the Kubota tool from my dealer - the tool is part of a large kit with adapters for many models so it's probably $$. While I had the kit I made a tool with the diameters and length needed for my L345. It is a reasonable guess that it might fit your tractor. PM your info - I'll lend it to you to try - you'll know right away if it fits or not.

But from the symptoms (pto lever jumping out of gear under load) I'm wondering if it's really a clutch problem. Usually that's caused by broken/worn pto gears. I've been there too - still need to split the tractor, just further back.

 

[SouthernSky]

But from the symptoms (pto lever jumping out of gear under load) I'm wondering if it's really a clutch problem. Usually that's caused by broken/worn pto gears. I've been there too - still need to split the tractor, just further back.

Well, I finally had the money and found an ag guy to work on my L2650. I bought a dual clutch off ebay and had him put it in and ... it didn't work. The PTO lever still jumps out of the 540 RPM position back to neutral with a light knocking sound when the PTO is engaged.

Worse, now the hitch bars won't lift but power steering works so I'm thinking this new issue may not be hydraulics but I'm not sure. Odd thing here is that I can just lift the bars with my hands easily with no resistance, something I could not do before. Logically, I looked at the visible linkage and all seems to be okay though the control lever to raise/lower the 3-point hitch seems really stiff and hard to move.

Ideas? I really need help here. I'm back to square one though I do have a new dual clutch assembly.

 

[SouthernSky]

Anyone? I sure would be grateful for your thoughts.

 

[hawkeye08]

No idea, hope you get it figured out. I looked at a few used tractors that had the dual stage, one in particular that had done a bunch of loader work and no pto work decided to go hydro.

 

[SouthernSky]

Can anyone offer any more guidance on how to determine if the PTO knocking means a replacement of gears and how to check without splitting the case in the rear? Can you see anything useful with a boroscope perhaps?

 

[dex3361]

I hate to say it but it is likely that you have a gear problem. The only other thing you might check is the engagement lever. If the engagement lever pin is partially sheared or the lever is not making full engagement this could cause it to jump out of gear. I suspect tough from your discription that you have a gear or bearing wore out and this is causing the issue.

 

[repete]

Is your transmission full of hydraulic fluid?

Put a pan under your transmission and drain the fluid. Be prepared for quite a lot to come out. Try to catch what immediately comes out in a clear jar and set it aside to settle out. If you have recently changed the fluid place the plug back in after the initial flow. If you have metal in the transmission fluid, you probably have a bearing or gear issue. Take a picture of what you get, if anything spread out on a white background.

I believe you have the two speed PTO. Does it have an issue in only one range? Will it go full throw into both positions? A lot of times "popping out of gear" can be a linkage issue. I suspect it may cause a clicking noise if it is riding only on the tips of the teeth and not full engaging as well. It will also kick it out under a small amount of load if not fully meshed.

My 2c

 

[SouthernSky]

It does have the 2-speed PTO engagement lever. If put in either the 540 or 1000 rpm position with no implement attached, it stays in position and the PTO spins propery. However, as soon as a bushhog/cutter are attached and the PTO engaged, the PTO starts knocking and will not stay locked in either engaged position. If I try to hold the engagement lever in an engaged position my hand, it knocks my hand so hard I can't hold it. In the neutral position, there is no issue.

If the transmission fluid was correct in the site glass or even overfilled, would that have anything to do with the 3-point hitch control lever not lifting the PTO arms and the control lever being very tough to move up or down without a lot of muscle thrown in?