djradz
Veteran Member
For all Ford and NH Tractor Owners with the infamous leaking block!
I put up with it for years on my Ford 1720 and for almost 4 on my TC 40D. I tried several fixes, including new plugs, teflon tape, blue silicone sealant, pipe dope, etc, all to no avail. ...But, I think I've got it by-golly. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif See the pics, but here is what I used, 3/4' NPT brass insert, 3/8" brass insert, and 1/4" brass valve. Could have just used the larger insert, but couldn't find a valve to fit. I imagine there's several other combinations that would work, but this is what I came up with. Key is getting a fitting into the block that fits and seals. I know some folks have said the thread might be British BPI threads, but NPT worked and sealed just fine, so I'm not sure. There defineately was no binding or gauling going in. I used a double wrap of teflon tape on each fitting. The problem with NH's fittings are that you have to have the right-angle drain line connection point facing down, for the drain to work very well. In the case of my old 1720 and in an even worse case with my 40D, the plug would get almost impossible to turn, just at the point where the drain line connection was facing almost straight up. So, you had to turn it in a little less, and then it leaked. I even ground a slot in a socket, 15/16" or 24 mm, or something like that, specifically so it would fit the odd fitting. I'm not sure that even if I were to have gotten it turned all the way around, it would have sealed long term as NH has had so much problem with these. Anyway, some additional pics also follow.
I put up with it for years on my Ford 1720 and for almost 4 on my TC 40D. I tried several fixes, including new plugs, teflon tape, blue silicone sealant, pipe dope, etc, all to no avail. ...But, I think I've got it by-golly. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif See the pics, but here is what I used, 3/4' NPT brass insert, 3/8" brass insert, and 1/4" brass valve. Could have just used the larger insert, but couldn't find a valve to fit. I imagine there's several other combinations that would work, but this is what I came up with. Key is getting a fitting into the block that fits and seals. I know some folks have said the thread might be British BPI threads, but NPT worked and sealed just fine, so I'm not sure. There defineately was no binding or gauling going in. I used a double wrap of teflon tape on each fitting. The problem with NH's fittings are that you have to have the right-angle drain line connection point facing down, for the drain to work very well. In the case of my old 1720 and in an even worse case with my 40D, the plug would get almost impossible to turn, just at the point where the drain line connection was facing almost straight up. So, you had to turn it in a little less, and then it leaked. I even ground a slot in a socket, 15/16" or 24 mm, or something like that, specifically so it would fit the odd fitting. I'm not sure that even if I were to have gotten it turned all the way around, it would have sealed long term as NH has had so much problem with these. Anyway, some additional pics also follow.
