Engine Break In

[buckhammer]

Hello all,
My first post here. I purchased a new 3616 with front end loader and I'm unsure about engine break-in. The manual says for 1st hour to run at 100 RPM above full load governed speed and hours 2-5 run at full load goverened speed with some short periods of lighter load. For first hour, does that mean run 100 rpm above my rear 540 pto speed (which would be about 2475 rpm)? Seems kinda hard on a new engine...

thanks,
John

 

[JerryK]

I don't like to run any engine at high RPM, even one that is well 'broke in', until it gets warmed up. I also usually do not run near PTO speed, even blowing snow, unless I really need it. Lugging a motor, especial a new one, is not good either...warm or cold. If that is what it says, and you check with your dealer to confirm what he thinks.... I'd still like to see some various RPM ranges used during break in, tending to be on the easy side..... 'cuz it is MY tractor... Good luck, Jerry...

 

[blueriver]

Follow the Mfg recomendations ... after the break in period never lug a diesel. Some of the older tractors with upwards of 7500 or so hours where put in the field day in and day out at pto rpm or higher ... they are made to work. Of course regular maintainence and scheduled lubricant changes are a must.

 

[buckhammer]

Thanks. I'll follow recommendations. Haven't been on a tractor since the old ford 9n when I was a kid...

 

[FarmerG]

I would double-check your break-in instructions with the dealer, but yeah....I would follow the manufacturers recommendations as well.

Diesel engines do not break in like gasoline engines. I followed the manual when I broke in my diesel engine after the rebuild. It was the opposite of what I would think to do....

I started out warming up the engine slowly....don't put any load on the engine till you have it to operating temps....no fast engine speed changes either, especially breaking in....be smooth and slow with the throttle.

Once I had mine to operating temps, I put the hardest load I knew how to put on the engine without trying to absolute kill it....brush-hogging. PTO speed....6ft tall grass, and close to 5 mph, varying the engine speed sometimes....it would pull the engine down sometimes almost 250 rpm's in dense patches...I didn't let it push any harder than that, but I kept it fully cranked out like that for close to 40 acres of grass - and plowing and discing till I hit the 50 hour mark.

When I would take a break or be done for the day, I would idle down slowly, still keeping the rpm's up in stages, letting the engine cool down slowly to help prevent any warping and keep things even. My book had me rechecking head bolt torque after so many hours.

Diesel's break in their rings completely different than gas engines, which is why it should be run so hard right out of the box....if you just run light loads on a diesel engine while breaking it in, you'll just varnish up your cylinders, and the rings won't seat properly. At least this was how it was explained to me by a diesel mechanic.

(I don't think my grandpa broke it in properly initially, and then he screwed up the 1st cylinder sleeve and ring install he did...which had bad results) I did a complete overhaul except the head one winter a few years ago....750 hours on that engine rebuild now and it sounds great and doesn't go through a drop of oil.

 

[dlauffenburger]

This is always an interesting topic discussed on motorcycle/motor forums. I am not sure about a diesel but for gas motors the new thought process is that lugging the engine is the worst thing you can do to a new motor. The most important part of the breakin is to ensure that there is enough exertion placed on the motor to expand the piston ring to get them to seal and seat properly.

The below link describes how to breakin a diesel engine in a new Pickup which describes some of the same philosophy as the above article, but unfortunately gives periods in miles not hours.

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

I found the above article interesting and it follows a lot of the processes recommended for newer gas engines. The following link descibes the breakin of new motorcycle engines, but does provide some more insight into modern engine breakin.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

When i got my new motorcycle the dealer explained the Breakin process outlined in the manual then immediately gave me the link above and recommended that i "Ride it like you stole it". When i asked why the manual says differently he stated that it was written to apease the lawyers. He has been selling and riding bikes for over 30 years so i trusted his judement. I did however change the oil and filter after 100 miles to ensure that any shavings were removed.

Dave