electrical trouble jinma 224

[jaroban]

I have read many posts here about electrical issues. Most are ground related. I suspect mine is the same. I suspected a bad key switch at first. I have ruled that out. My trouble is #5 (amp meter)at the key switch. When I move the key to any other position besides off I loose power to wire #5. I ran a ground wire from the neg battery up to the back of the fuse box with no help. I removed the key switch and touched wire #5 to any other wire in the switch (#6 Red, Green glow plugs,#10 starter,and small red wire tac) I loose all voltage to #5 wire between ground except the small wire I have around 6 vdc. The tractor will not start with out jumping the starter solenoid. I have checked all fuses,have unpluged the 12 pin conector all seems well there. I do not have a cluster I have seperate gages. I have no lightes.

Thanks in advance Robby

 

[greg_g]

#10 doesn't go to the starter, it goes to the clutch interlock switch located beneath the left floorboard. That's a very very common source of electrical problems. The purpose of that switch is - when the clutch pedal is fully depressed - to make a temporary connection to the starter solenoid via #11. Sometimes the switch is just out of position, sometimes it's visibly crushed, sometimes one of the wires is pinched to ground.

//greg//

 

[jaroban]

#10 doesn't go to the starter, it goes to the clutch interlock switch located beneath the left floorboard. That's a very very common source of electrical problems. The purpose of that switch is - when the clutch pedal is fully depressed - to make a temporary connection to the starter solenoid via #11. Sometimes the switch is just out of position, sometimes it's visibly crushed, sometimes one of the wires is pinched to ground.

//greg//

Greg I am sorry I left out a part of my original post. I do not
Have a clutch safety switch. I took it out some time ago it gave
Me trouble from the very first.

 

[erj]

Here are a couple of things that may help you with your trouble-shooting. They are from my 284. Also do a search on this site to get a copy of the wiring diagram that RonMar produced.

 

[jaroban]

I am having trouble understanding why
When I touch the wire with 12 v to any
Other wire the voltage drops to nothing.
Would that be caused by a bad ground
Or a short in the hot wire?

 

[Rich Waugh]

You need to test that 12v wire with a load on it - it may be transient voltage due to leakage. Put a small light bulb in series with it and touch it to ground. If no light, itis a transient. If it lights the bulb then it is actually a hot wire.

 

[jaroban]

Thanks I will try that when I get home and report what I find
What happens if it is transient?

 

[Rich Waugh]

Transient voltagemeans itis not getting full current from the source - battery, alternator, etc. That may be because it isn't supposed to be a hot wire, but rather a ground or return wire, and it is pickiing up a small amount of current from something else it is wired to like a gauge or panel light. While the voltage may be 12 volts, it has no ampacity - no real current flow to actually do anything, so when a load is applied it drops to 0. A wire that is supposed to be hot and have full current can also read as a transient voltage if it has some resistance inline somewhere that is choking its ability to carry current. This could be a place where it is badly corroded, crushed to where there is on a single strand left, or some other source of resistance that is impeding current flow. Do you now which wire on your wiring diagram we're talking about? Should it have supply voltage according to the wiring diagram?

 

[erj]

With the switch in the On position, do you have 12 volts at the switch terminal that wire 5 connects to?

 

[jaroban]

The wire #5 that comes from the amp
Gauge. It should have 12 volts that
Is what powers the ignition switch.
With the key off I have power to wire five.
When I turn the key to any other position
I loose the voltage. I removed the key
Switch thinking that was the problem.
Now I have just the wires there. When I
Touch wire five to any other wire the
Voltage drops off. Thanks Robby

 

[erj]

I agree with Rich's suggestion as the next step.

 

[erj]

If it turns out to be transient in Rich’s test, I would suggest doing the same test with the light beginning at the starter (source) end.
Check wire 2 at the Ammeter fuse, if transient there also – check wire 2 at Connector.
Check wire 3 at the Ammeter fuse then at the Connector.
If still haven’t found it you will need to check at the Ammeter itself.

 

[jaroban]

I found teh problem. I did as you said with a 12v break light. The problem was in one of the plastic conectors that comes out of the amp meter. Thank you very much. This forum is the best I have ever used. When I bought this tractor I did not know much about tractors. I knew that a jinma tractor was not the best tractor in the world but it was what I could afford. I also knew that there was going to be maintenance issues. With the help of this forum I have been able to fix every problem on my tractor. I have also helped others with there problems as well. thanks again for all the input. Robby

 

[erj]

I want to thank Rich. I had never heard of transient and I thought that if you had 12V at a wire, it was "checked".
RonJ

 

[Rich Waugh]

Glad to hear you got it fixed, Robby.

Glad I could pass along that bit of info, Ron. Transients can be really confusing when all you have is a voltmeter and no way to test for ampacity. Those old fashioned testers with the light bulb were actually better in some ways since they didn't respond to transient voltages.

 

[jaroban]

I actually checked it with the old fashion
Light first. Every thing lit up. There was
Enough amps to turn on the small bulb.
It was a bit confusion. But when I changed
To a break tight nothing worked.
Thanks again for the lesson on transient
Power. Robby