Electrical question.

   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Is this acceptable?

20230820_175017.jpg
 
   / Electrical question. #44  
Similar to were you removed the jumper on the right (circled in previous post) there should be a screw hole next the left ground bar to use and the end can be inserted were you put the bare wire.
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Similar to were you removed the jumper on the right (circled in previous post) there should be a screw hole next the left ground bar to use and the end can be inserted were you put the bare wire.
The large silver screw on the left held the jumper. It did not look like it would screw down enough to hold the 10 gauge wire I used, so I routed it farther down the bar. That is why.
 
   / Electrical question. #46  
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but every box needs taken apart and all connections checked and tightened there is something going on on the neutral side. I a perfect word every circuit had its own neutral as the code book states. As people begin to do projects around the house things happen that may have been 10 years before you moved in and someone added or moved a device and it’s messing up everything that’s on that particular neutral. Also have the power company Check the splices in the overhead the Chinese finger trap type commonly used on neutral lines overhead can go bad if noalox wasn’t applied to the splices before they were made
 
   / Electrical question. #47  
I was referring to the two areas marked in green.

Can you show us the inside of the main house panel. Maybe someone will see something for you (or your electrician friend) to check on.
 

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   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#48  
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but every box needs taken apart and all connections checked and tightened there is something going on on the neutral side. I a perfect word every circuit had its own neutral as the code book states. As people begin to do projects around the house things happen that may have been 10 years before you moved in and someone added or moved a device and it’s messing up everything that’s on that particular neutral. Also have the power company Check the splices in the overhead the Chinese finger trap type commonly used on neutral lines overhead can go bad if noalox wasn’t applied to the splices before they were made
Ain't that the truth. But I have been here 15 years and this all started within the last year.

Could it be mice? Or like what you are saying?
Seems to happen across different circuits.
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#49  
I was referring to the two areas marked in green.

Can you show us the inside of the main house panel. Maybe someone will see something for you (or your electrician friend) to check on.
So are you saying those circled in green are wrong? I feel so defeated.
 
   / Electrical question. #51  
No sir. That is were the jumper from the right side that you moved to the upper left and extended should go.
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#52  
No sir. That is were the jumper from the right side that you moved to the upper left and extended should go.
It appears no matter where I put it, it will still have to be jumped to the ground bar. I see no holes that would allow me to insert it directly into the ground bar.
 
   / Electrical question. #53  
Will it fit like this on the bar with the bare wires?
 

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   / Electrical question. #54  
It appears no matter where I put it, it will still have to be jumped to the ground bar. I see no holes that would allow me to insert it directly into the ground bar.
This is what I would do: I'm a retired electronic technician, not an electrician though. Everyone should have a good multimeter (I like fluke). I would start with main panel, incoming power (I know leads are insulated but still wear gloves). Should be 240vac, so 240v across mains and 120v each to neutral. Measure then have someone try things (coffee pot, stove, washer, etc). Now check other end of house outlets...same loading experiment (cell phones or walkie-talkies). Write readings on paper as you go.
I assume farthest point is shop. Same thing, readings at panel, helper trying loads a few seconds while you read meter. Finally reading at shop incoming power, 240v across mains & each leg to neutral. This time loads in shop (compressor, lights, etc.).
All this looking at your readings should give a clue.
Months ago my garage things went "wonkey". Lights dim, compressor didn't start, etc. I had one spot underground where corrosion started. I had 240v no load, 210 with load, 98v one leg to neutral, 142v other leg to neutral. Voltage changed with loads.
Electrician located problem, we dug & spliced...all is well.
The clue is starting at the source then moving to end of the line.
Fifty years ago certain TVs would not tolerate much variation from 120v. We left a chart recorder at some customers home and I saw from 100 to over 140v some places...especially people at end of line from pole transformer.
 
   / Electrical question. #55  
I never recommend somebody that has “less than enough knowledge” to put their hands into electrical panel, with gloves, or without….

It doesn’t take much to set off an arc flash
 
   / Electrical question. #56  
I didn't read all replies...I thought he was measuring voltages.
 

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