Electrical problem, Jinma 304

[Rich Waugh]

I was moving a bunch of trees and brush today and after a couple of hours I noticed the gauges had all quit working. I checked and the fuse for the voltage regulator was blown so I replaced, but it instantly blew again. Obviously, something is shorted out somewhere, probably due to one of the myriad branches that got jammed in and around the engine/tractor during my forays.

Any suggestions on the place to start looking for this gremlin? I hate electrical issues. - Dammed voodoo stuff!

Rich

 

[Diamondpilot]

Check the wiring going to the alternator and the starter. The fuse box gets its power from the starters big lug. These wires would be a good place to start since you were in the brush and could easily get a stick in the wrong place.

Chris

 

[Rich Waugh]

Thanks Chris, that's exactly the sort of help I was looking for. Well, actually I'd prefer it if you just dropped by and fixed it for me, but I know that ain't gonna happen. (grin)

I'll dig into it tomorrow when I'm fresh and potentially optimistic. Probably won't last long, but I'll hope for the best. I really prefer plumbing...or at least household/shop AC if I absolutely have to do electrical stuff.

Thanks again,

Rich

 

[Red55]

Rich also check your clutch safety switch - lots of issues with them breaking and shorting. Good luck -Ed

 

[Affordable]

Rich,check the wires at the starter as Cris said,that is a common source,also look at the wires feeding the tail lights that run under the tractor,I think you will find the problem pretty easy

Let me know if we can help you

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[greg_g]

Rich also check your clutch safety switch - lots of issues with them breaking and shorting. Good luck -Ed

Red - that switch passes unregulated voltage through the system fuse. The gauges get regulated voltage on a secondary circuit. If the clutch interlock circuit shorts out, the system fuse blows - thereby disabling the ENTIRE electrical system. Same thing for the wires at the starter. they're unregulated.

The brake switch and wiring for rear lighting however, is both regulated and vulnerable to damage from below the floorboards and inside the fenders. As Tommy suggests, that would be a good place to start.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Thanks for the suggestions so far, guys! (And keep 'em coming, as I need all the help I can get.)

I'll get busy checking them out and let you know if I have any joy.

Rich

 

[Rich Waugh]

Well, I am double-dipped if I know just what did the trick, but I fiddled with lots of stuff and finally got the problem cured. Perhaps it was just the "laying on of hands" that did it, who knows?

I did find that the harness to the right rear fender was all yanked around under the tractor, half the wires hanging out of the spaghetti (but not broken), so I tidied that all up nicely and secured it far better than I originally had - say about two dozen zip ties.

The clutch safety switch had been unplugged, but no damage. Took care of that.

The rear work light was busted open, but no damage internally. Fixed the housing and reassembled.

The ground cable from the battery (actually from the battery disconnect switch I installed), had been yanked around by a stick so I tidied that up and re-did the connection to the frame for good measure.

The dust caps on the rear remotes were off again, so I finally zip-tied them on tightly - been meaning to do that for months now.

Wiggled the voltage regulator for good measure, replaced the fuse and everything works as designed. Damfino why, but I'm satisfied and it all only took me an hour. Hard to complain about that.

Thanks to everyone for the guidance. I am probably no smarter after all this, but my tractor runs again so I'm very happy.

Rich

 

[greg_g]

I did find that the harness to the right rear fender was all yanked around under the tractor, half the wires hanging out of the spaghetti

I think closer inspection may reveal one or more of those wires has had a section of insulation compromised. When carrying live voltage, it doesn't take much contact at all - between exposed copper and ground - to blow a simple automotive fuse. The good news is that - once found - it's easily remedied by replacing the missing/damaged insulation with electrical tape or heat shrink.

//greg//

 

[mffarmall]

If the whole electrical system went down then like these guys said it probably might be at the starter and ignition switch. Might make sure that the nuts are tight. Might look at your ignition key wires and trace them back to the starter? Your tractor will run without these on.