Electric over Hydraulic question??

[yoder]

WR Long Electric over Hydraulic kit.

I know this kit is used for operating a grapple on the FEL. But could it be used instead for a rear remote to open and close a single cylinder on a 3 Pt. skidding grapple? And would this be a cheaper option the the NH 600.00 kit for the rear remote? Commets Thanks

 

[J_J]

WR Long Electric over Hydraulic kit.



I know this kit is used for operating a grapple on the FEL. But could it be used instead for a rear remote to open and close a single cylinder on a 3 Pt. skidding grapple? And would this be a cheaper option the the NH 600.00 kit for the rear remote? Commets Thanks

Well, it just depends

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL PRINCE VALVE SAE PORTS

Need two of these for two cyl, and they atr either off or on.

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL PRINCE VALVE SAE PORTS

Need one of these for one valve.

Surplus Center - 1 STATION DO3 SUBPLATE OPEN CENTER

 

[yoder]

It looks to me that the remote kit from NH is going to be the best option for a me for few reasons.

1. It comes as a kit.

2. There is already a slot for the lever.

3. It takes out the guess work.

 

[J_J]

yoder,

Well, it really comes down to the money or your ability to make up and install things like hyd components.

If you want to save money and have the talent, you can do it for about half.

Are you sure you want solenoid valves to operate the grapple? The electric valve operation is full on or off.

 

[DJNebraska]

A kit that includes everything, except hydraulic hoses...

SelectPLUS 12 GPM

 

[J_J]

You can do it with this valve, some hoses, fittings, switch and wire.

Surplus Center - SAE 8 6 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE 12 VDC P15544-2

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-5117-A.pdf

It's your tractor, just so what you want.

 

[yoder]

yoder,

Well, it really comes down to the money or your ability to make up and install things like hyd components.

If you want to save money and have the talent, you can do it for about half.

Are you sure you want solenoid valves to operate the grapple? The electric valve operation is full on or off.

I have not thought about the full on or full off issue. I am glad you brought that up. That would not work well for my use on a road blade or rear grapple for that matter. I got a quote today for a NH rear remote kit for under $ 600.00 including freight. I know I can install a kit. As far as building somthing Hydraulic from scratch thats another story. I don't even like plumbing in the house with PVC. I will let you know whitch way I go in this fourm. Thanks and Merry Christmas

 

[yoder]

A kit that includes everything, except hydraulic hoses...

SelectPLUS 12 GPM

Thanks for this link. I am learning

 

[grsthegreat]

i like the xmas photos there JJ



i KNEW saint nick vacationed in FL.

 

[Lonerock]

I hope J_J or Yoder can help me. My problem is I have a NH TN65 that is equipped with the one remote and I have been dealing with the Westendorf people for a loader. The loader comes with a joystick, hoses, etc. I use my existing remote to operate a hydraulic top link, now I need another remote. I visited the closest NH dealer and inquired about an additional remote for a TN65 and was told it would be $1025.15 for the kit. I almost fainted. Surely there is a cheaper way to connect a loader than this. The existing remote is a cable operated affair for a two way cylinder. The quoted price for the Westendorf loader, a TA-26 Plus, and the NH TN65 remote will make the thing very close to Ten Thousand dollars and that is only loader delivered to an existing dealer and not installed. I am searching for ideas. I suppose I never thought it would be so expensive to add a remote. Maybe I need to forget the whole thing and look for a used tractor with loader.
My tractor is a 2001 TN65 with 800 hrs. never been hurt. around 50 hp at the drawbar. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ch1ch2]

Buying a used tractor w/loader usually is cheaper.
There are salvage yards with loaders and remotes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Look for your power beyond source, there is no reason to get a 2nd remote just to get fluid to the loader. Do some research for hydraulic sources on your tractor. Ask for the installation instructions for the loader, they may very well show exactly where and what you need to do.

Good luck.

 

[the old grind]

It paid off for me to buy a 'used' loader for my JD 5210. $3k with j-stick and side-rails for a much larger model Deere. Rails for my model: ~$1200 in hand. Another $500 to upgrade (29.50") 6.50 x 16, 8 pr front R-1s to (36") 11.00 x 16, 10 prs and 8 x 16 rims. .. (with '1/4" offset' and no spindle rubs)

I used the Deere's remotes and j-stick, so have the similar Allied bits left over, but they'd have worked. btw, tractor is a '99 and IMO the JD j-stick and remotes were never used. Bucket will hang for a week at ~waist high before any droop is apparent. ("honest", and totally bragging...) Another $250 at most for new lines/fitting to loader arms, and I'm probably short of $5K with nothing much tougher than routine tractor maintenance to hook 'er up.

Anyway, I'm sure I'm not the only one here who would hate to see a member shell out top dollar if we could help in any way and perhaps save half the $$. Won't take you long to figure out that you came to the right place for that. BTW most guys could haul a loader with gear on hand if not a LUT such as ours. Bet you can beat $20-30/mile.

 

[LD1]

Agree, get an OEM install manual. Foolish IMO to waste a set of remotes feeding a loader.

OEM probably had a manifold block somewhere that could be added. It would have most likely pulled supply before feeding 3ph, then used PB off the loader valve to feed the downstream 3ph