Electric Airless Sprayers

[Red Horse]

Any opinions on these? My son has a Graco Tradeworks 150. Used it on my barn last year applying c Cabots solid water base stain. Worked well -from time to time- but always had to make adjustments and cleaning is a PITA. I'm having my house resided now with preprimed cedar clapboards. I'm doing the staining. Applying another coat of oil based primer and then a top coat of solid water based stain-Ben-Moore Arborcoat. theycall it stain-might as well be paint.

As i'm going to be following the carpenter as he completes sections i will be jumping back and forth between oil based and water based products. Im thinking I might be ahead of the game if I buy a self contained sprayer like the Wagner 570/590. Onlything I;m cleaning then is the quart cannister as well as the sprayer itself. Cpmp[ared to the long hose on the Grayco, the 2' long pick up tube etc.

One other thing, I have a boom lift so its not like I need 40' of hosebecause I'm on a ladder.

Appreciate any opinions.

 

[BeezFun]

I've had one similar to the Graco for 10 years and use it for everything. It attaches directly to a 5gal pail. I don't have to adjust anything, cleanup isn't so bad- just let water circulate in a loop for 5-10 minutes and change it a few times. They do waste a lot of paint, I'm guessing half the paint goes in the air rather than on the wall.
The little ones like the Wagner are OK I guess, but you're going to be adding paint all the time. They hold a quart and spray 1-2 gallons per hour, do the math. They also don't have the coverage and flow that a larger system will have. It takes a lot of paint to cover cedar.
You say you have a boom lift, not clear why you need to jump back and forth. You could follow the carpenter the whole way with the primer. Then come back and do finish coat. If you really need two sprayers, I think I'd buy another commercial unit rather than the small one.

In either case, I wouldn't just spray, I'd also roll or brush to get good adhesion. I use a roller while I spray, go right back over the section I sprayed with more paint and roll it on really hard. My experience is just spraying will peel sooner than rolling.

 

[olllotj]

I really like my Titan 290. It holds 5 gallon pails. I've never adjusted it just sprays all day. I used oil based stain on my log home, and rough sided hemlock pole barn. Clean up was easy, run mineral spirits through it .

 

[Midniteoyl]

Had the Wagner cheapie (you know, little yellow one) that I painted the whole inside and outside of my house with. 1 cup of water to 2 gallons of paint for thinning and just stick the hose extension into the pail... simple and cheap. Cleanup was 2 gals of water ran through it...

 

[Red Horse]

I've had one similar to the Graco for 10 years and use it for everything. It attaches directly to a 5gal pail. I don't have to adjust anything, cleanup isn't so bad- just let water circulate in a loop for 5-10 minutes and change it a few times. They do waste a lot of paint, I'm guessing half the paint goes in the air rather than on the wall.
The little ones like the Wagner are OK I guess, but you're going to be adding paint all the time. They hold a quart and spray 1-2 gallons per hour, do the math. They also don't have the coverage and flow that a larger system will have. It takes a lot of paint to cover cedar.
You say you have a boom lift, not clear why you need to jump back and forth. You could follow the carpenter the whole way with the primer. Then come back and do finish coat. If you really need two sprayers, I think I'd buy another commercial unit rather than the small one.

In either case, I wouldn't just spray, I'd also roll or brush to get good adhesion. I use a roller while I spray, go right back over the section I sprayed with more paint and roll it on really hard. My experience is just spraying will peel sooner than rolling.

Beez-thxfor comments. And for starters we are on same page- I view spraying as a process to just get the coating from the can to the surface-it then needs a brush for the complete job.

As for jumping back and forth, what I mean is as a section gets sided, I will follow up with the prime coat-oil based. Then ideally next day I'm hitting that with top coat of water based Arborcoat. Or I might do a small section with oil in AM and tyhen go back to previous days section with top coat in PM. Keep in mind, unlike a contractor I am not concerned about production all day long- if I'm faced with bright sunlight I'm not applying.

Today? we had rain-so I'm doing Azek trim boards inside with Valspar latex

Attached picture gives you an idea of what I'm dealing with. A lot of small runs vs big expanses Again I can't stick with one product if I want to keep up with the residing

 

[Bird]

It's been nearly 30 years since I spent the better part of 2 days painting the exterior of my parents' mobile home with a Wagner Power Painter. It worked very well, but was noisy and perhaps the worst part was the vibration. So that Wagner 570/590 sure looks good, but I've never used one.

 

[forgeblast]

I can second that Titan, I used a similar one and flew through it. Just wondering but is it ok to put water based on top of oil. I was always told it was the other way around. Water based first and then oil on top other wise you will have peeling.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Oil base primer and latex topcoat..

 

[czechsonofagun]

Had the Wagner cheapie (you know, little yellow one) that I painted the whole inside and outside of my house with. 1 cup of water to 2 gallons of paint for thinning and just stick the hose extension into the pail... simple and cheap. Cleanup was 2 gals of water ran through it...

Friend gave me one, it did not work for him but I painted whole barn with it with minimum problems.

 

[Red Horse]

Guys- thx for responses.

As to water based on oil primer, that is the accepted method-at least for red cedar clapboards. The boards come pre primed with an oil based product. I have had some "800 help desks" say put two coats of water based solid stain on top of that and others say another coat of oil primer (that seals the nail holes) followed by one topcoat of solid water based stain.

That is the route I'm going. the guy who is doing the residing is an experienced guy and that is his opinion plus the Ben-Moore help desks plus my local dealer