Electric Actuator for Spout Control (JD 2320)

[lost in wisconsin]

psdx...

I like it. A couple of questions:
- did you have difficulty cutting through your plastic to mount your switch? (it looks so clean, almost factory)
- how long would you estimate it takes to go from completely closed to completely open? I sometimes wish mine was a bit faster but since I only change it once or twice during a blowing, it hasn't been that big of deal.
- did you have any inteference between the deflector and the actuator like I had (post #4)?

Thanks again for posting. I can never get enough of seeing these types of projects.


lost

 

[psdx]

psdx...

I like it. A couple of questions:
- did you have difficulty cutting through your plastic to mount your switch? (it looks so clean, almost factory)
- how long would you estimate it takes to go from completely closed to completely open? I sometimes wish mine was a bit faster but since I only change it once or twice during a blowing, it hasn't been that big of deal.
- did you have any inteference between the deflector and the actuator like I had (post #4)?

Thanks again for posting. I can never get enough of seeing these types of projects.

lost

That plastic door is very tough plastic, which required some effort with a file for the final fit. But I used a Dremel multi-tool - the tool that has the vibrating cutting blade. It allowed nice square corners and was very easy to control. I marked the area I wanted to cut out with some masking tape to get the location and dimensions just right. Once that was done the actual cutting was less than a minute. I purposely cut just a tiny bit small so the final fit could be done with a hand file.

The time for full travel is between 6-7 seconds. This actuator has 110 lbs of force so I would imagine that keeps the speed down. But the minimum to maximum length ranges from 8.5-12.5" so it required no drilling.

No interference between the chute and he actuator except that you can't have a long bolt sticking out as it would contact the actuator near the top of its stroke. But the nylon washers under the actuator combined with just a bolt head for the spout pivot makes for zero contact.

 

[ruko]

Very good. I'm doing the same thing to my 2320 47" blower. Can you elaborate on removing the dash?

Thanks

 

[lost in wisconsin]

Very good. I'm doing the same thing to my 2320 47" blower. Can you elaborate on removing the dash?

Thanks

Sure...

The item circled in red is the attachment for the throttle lever. This is removed by pushing back the rubber boot from the dash, sliding the boot up the throttle in order to give you access to bolt securing the lever. I believe it is a metric bolt. Once removed the throttle lever comes off.

The item circled in blue is the shaft for which the steering wheel attaches and can be a little more difficult but I did it for both our 2320 and 2520. You will need to remove the center cover of the steering wheel first. There are locking tabs which can be pried loose using a screwdriver. From there, you will need to remove the nut securing the steering wheel to the shaft. Now for the fun part...when I did this on our 2320 it had almost 300 hours and was 3 years old and suspect the steering wheel had never been removed. Our 2520 was less than 6 months old when I did it and went far easier. With that said and depending on how stubborn the steering wheel wants to be, I might suggest 2 possible solutions: a) try a puller or you can do as we did b) I stood on the deck of the 2320 lifting up on the steering wheel while my son used a rubber mallet and tapped the steering from the underside. Again, it took some convincing but the splines finally do release from each other. You can then slide off the rubber boot.

From here there are a 4 bolts that hold the dash cover down to the frame. There are 2 under the shaft on the inside of the dash. You cannot see them in the picture but I placed green arrows as to where they would be. The other 2 are located on the outside of the dash, one on each side. If you look at the attached pic from the John Deere Parts Catalog, focus on the dash cover in the upper right hand corner. You will notice 2 bolts labeled #4. This shows where the bolts are located both under the steering shaft and on the outside of the dash cover. Be careful and if I may suggest, use a magnetic driver to remove the bolts on the inside (under the shaft) as they have a tendency to want to fall once loose.

Once all the bolts are removed, you can not pull dash cover away from the frame or at least to a point. I would start on the right hand side and move left as there will be wire assemblies that will also need to be disconnected. These are the typical slide and lock type and with a small flat screwdriver can be removed.

I hope this helps and if not, please let me know and I can provide some more pics or info.

Good luck in your mod.

Doug

 

[ruko]

Thanks. Really appreciate that you took the time to photo the process. Another question: JD has what they call a "Technical Manual" CD for $65 + shipping. Do you know if this is a repair manual that shows how to fix things? Hopefully with much more info than the owners manual.

Thanks again.

 

[ruko]

Want you to know I completed my project and it works great. Finally got the steering wheel off. Had to borrow a puller to do it. Winter is coming on and can't wait to try out my tractor. Anyway thanks again.

 

[Jtschnel]

This thread really caught my attention. I purchased a 1026R earlier and in addition to other attachments had the dealer order a blower and cab for it. I told him I wanted to be able use it without leaving the cab under normal conditions, including spout control. He called back and said he found an electrically operated kit for it. I assumed it was JD but maybe not. I haven't had that one delivered yet but now want to see what they're putting on it.

 

[Henri88]

Did he suggest to you the cable spout control. Works great for me and much cheaper.

 

[lost in wisconsin]

I told him I wanted to be able use it without leaving the cab under normal conditions, including spout control. He called back and said he found an electrically operated kit for it.

I would love to see some pictures once you receive it.


Thanks