Eaton 70160 pump

[Geochurchi]

Greetings, we are trying to get better control of this pump, currently there is a rod which we move back and forth for forward and reverse, creating a very jerky operation, need a positive neutral position and a solid sq coupling or something to attach to the shaft, unfortunately i don't have good pics at this but will at some point.

 

[TractorTech]

It's the flat bar? Hard to tell how it works currently with the picture you have.

 

[Geochurchi]

Thanks for the reply, I realize the pic is not that good, all I had at the moment, it is that flat bar and there is a roller that drops into a “V” that is supposed to be the neutral position, very sloppy, we want to make a better connection at the shaft with some kind of better linkage, maybe best to wait a couple of weeks so that I can get better pics.

 

[TractorTech]

If you put a pivot below the bar, bolted a lever similar to the line drawn to point it out to the flat bar, you would have a lot of fine control vs what you have. At least it would be a place to start.

What is the platform, a rail cart of sorts?

 

[Geochurchi]

 

[TractorTech]

Very neat, but if the control is under the body, how do you regulate the motion?

 

[Geochurchi]

The control rod runs inside the body to the right end in the pic, there is a lever attached that is move forward and backwards to control the direction, the engineer sits on a car behind to control the motion.

 

[Sportsman762]

@Geochurchi To make it less jerky can you use a longer lever, this would give it finer control. Another idea that can be utilized regardless of lever length is to put a dampener on the lever like zero turn mowers have. Its amazing how much smoother a dampener makes things.

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On the Versatile Bidirectionals (this is for a 276 and they used the Danfoss/Eaton 70423 pump) they used a hand lever instead of a foot control for speed. The handle had a button (12) that you depressed and this pushed down a rod (13) that moved a latch (14) out of a gate (1). The gate (1) was curved and had a notch in the neutral section. If you needed to put the tractor in neutral you just moved the hand lever without depressing the button and it would latch into place. This setup did not use dampeners as the cables provided adequate resistance.

If your limited on space then a short lever, with a dampener and a neutral lock button would be the solution I would go with. Hope my explanation makes sense. By the way, neat train! Please post more about it!

 

[Geochurchi]

This is our newer locomotive, much more advanced

 

[Geochurchi]

Looking for some sort of sq. coupling with a set screw to attach to the pump shaft to remove sloop that we presently have, as I said I will post better pics in a couple of weeks.

 

[Geochurchi]

Greetings, here are some pics or the current setup, looking for any suggestions to possibly to control that pump electrically 12 VDC or for better less sloppy linkage control , the aluminum bar controls the forward,reverse, and neutral position of the pump arm
Thanks

 

[oldnslo]

A machine shop should be able to make a lever arm that clamps on that shaft tightly.
Or can you saw cut what you have and then use a square U-bolt to pinch it tight?

 

[Geochurchi]

Thanks, one way or the other it needs to be tight

 

[Sportsman762]

If I were me I would put in a cable control system so that the operator in the tender can have the control right by them.
For a lever I would use a Buyers B206301001 control. These lock in a center detent and you have to push down on the handle to move it out of center. This would be a good safety feature for your operation.

https://www.buyersproducts.com/product/single-axis-remote-valve-control-with-detent-1112

Then i would pair it with the appropriate length control cable.

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The friction in the cable will allow a smooth operation when starting and stopping.

 

[Geochurchi]

Hi would agree with the control, the biggest problem is a solid connection at the pump shaft end, I have talked to Buyers Products at a local supplier, they suggested that I contact the local Hydraulics Service Co. that they supply, which I have, I gave them pics of this connection and now we are waiting, do you have any thoughts, also thinking that this control should have capability to install electrical interlock for a positive Non Start, just a second safety.

 

[Sportsman762]

You could install a switch that the lever contacts when in neutral. The switch would be between the start switch and the starter solenoid. When depressed the switch would complete the starter circuit so that the engine could not be started "in gear" as the circuit between the starter switch and the starter solenoid would be open. When it was in "Neutral", then you could start the engine as the circuit from the starter switch and the engine would be complete allowing the starter switch to function as normal.

 

[Geochurchi]

Thanks for the reply, problem with that is we have to identify neutral position of the shaft on the pump not the shaft, need some sort of positive connection to the shaft to work from, not the sloppy connection we currently have.

 

[Sportsman762]

Can you see the dataplate on the pump?
On page 8 of the PDF below it states that the 10th position of the model number is the designator for the control shaft. A square shaft is an option.

https://hydrosta.nl/uploads/documents/MediumDutyClosedLoopPistonPumps.pdf

Once you verify what control input you have I would look into having a machine shop build something.
I will use cultivator bar clamps as example (they are for 3"+ tubes but general concept is the same. But I would add a long rod with holes on the top to attach the control clevis to.

I would have it made so that you have multiple holes on the upright rod so that you can adjust sensitivity / speed easier.
For fine tuning the neutral position you screw the clevis on the control cable end in or out. Or you screw the control cable in or out.

 

[Geochurchi]

Can you see the dataplate on the pump?
On page 8 of the PDF below it states that the 10th position of the model number is the designator for the control shaft. A square shaft is an option.
View attachment 4510386

https://hydrosta.nl/uploads/documents/MediumDutyClosedLoopPistonPumps.pdf

Once you verify what control input you have I would look into having a machine shop build something.
I will use cultivator bar clamps as example (they are for 3"+ tubes but general concept is the same. But I would add a long rod with holes on the top to attach the control clevis to.
View attachment 4510387View attachment 4510388
I would have it made so that you have multiple holes on the upright rod so that you can adjust sensitivity / speed easier.
For fine tuning the neutral position you screw the clevis on the control cable end in or out. Or you screw the control cable in or out.

Thanks, this is the best concept we have seen so far, and I just found out we have a new member that does machine work.

 

[Sportsman762]

@Geochurchi So this has been pestering me most of the day on were I have seen something like what I was describing. Then I remembered! Valve Handles!
here is what I was trying to explain. This unit who's photo I stole off ebay has a 8 point hole so you had more options. I think a 4 point hole would hold better. I doodled some holes on the lever to show what I was trying to convey. Unless you feel confident in you measuring and calculations I would make the lever longer than you think you will need and just move the control cable down until you find the right hole. Then cut the extra holes off if you want.