E6011 rod for AC

[oldnslo]

Hi all, I just purchased 5 lbs of E6011 3/32 diameter and am having tremendous problems getting it to hold an arc. It wants to short out and stick. I have tried flat, vertical up, vertical down, with Vertical up being the least likely to stick but it still does.

Very difficult to strike arc also, wants to stick instantly.

I have a Lincoln 225 buzz box and have tried amp settings of 45, 60, 75 with very little change in this problem. Rod also seems to have an extreme amount of welding splatter Vs 1/8 diameter on the same material.

Flux is not flaking off nor does it appear to be powdery or cracked.

Rod was purchased from a local welding supply house.

Any suggestions or ideas what I am doing wrong besides being old, shakey and blind.

TIA

Roy

 

[Shield Arc]

A lot of talk about welding on AC lately. Only AC welding I do is aluminum Tig, so I thought I'd give it a try. I used Hobart's 335A 6011. Other than the difference in noise I didn't really see a whole lot of difference than on DC.

What brand of rod did you buy?

 

[ramzee1]

They didn't give you 6010's by mistake? They act like that when used on AC.

 

[SixHoeBob]

I set the welder at 90 amps when I use 3/32. When the rod sticks tight it will quickly become completely bright orange, time for another rod. Drag the rod to start the arc as opposed to tapping it. For 1/8 inch 6011, I run 150 amps.

 

[6sunset6]

I find it neccessary to keep the rod dry. We used to keep a light bulb on in the storage box. Or keep it in the house.
I have been using 1/8 rod like that and the same welder for 40 years.

 

[JoelD]

Try more amp

I find ac does stick more than dc could just be I stink at it but I find dc with 6011 much easier

Joel

 

[rankrank1]

Welding with AC power is almost always more spattery than welding with DC power. Additionally, 6011 rod will be the most spattery of the common rods. 6011 also has different flux characteristics - flux usually thinner and can be harder to chip off since so little of it.

6011 also takes more skill to use as the arc gap distance must be maintained by the operator and the rod manipulations are different - harder for a newbie or an unskilled welder like me to master. 6013 or 7014 on the other hand you can just pretty much drag the rod with it contacting the piece and the flux will form a cone that will define the arc gap distance - much easier for an unskilled welder like me to use.

If you keep having trouble - try turning the welder up to 90 amps or even 105 and try it.

 

[Chilly807]

I think you need more current, 75 amps isn't much for a 3/32 rod. I set mine at 90-100 amps DC, AC should be the same I think. Much below that and it wants to stick.

Sean

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Chilly, 80-90 amps is pretty high. You should be able to maintain arc stability with a 3/32 6011 around 60 amps.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I am just guessing but i would say the folks having to run more than 100-125 amps for a 1/8 need to check their machine. 150 amps would easily burn a 5/32. I never liked 3/32 60xx rods, they get hot too quick and do spatter much more than 1/8. When the rod starts to turn black, it is almost impossible for even a skilled welder to strike an arc with it. The amps should be 60-90 with 90 being on the extremely hot side. You should be able to hold a good arc with them on 60 amps on really thin material