Dump Trailer Battery

[John_Mc]

Several pieces of equipment meets the seldom used description. I've often wondered how a co-op ownership with members renting equipment from themselves would work. Whether a member or not,a business with space and manpower would be paid to handle rentals. Equipment might even be available to non-members. The question is whether co-owners would take better care of equipment than when its borrowed. I've heard of barter clubs but never talked to anyone with experience. The more expensive or shorter lived equipment earns more points per day/hour than lesser equipment. Bartering lends itself to equipment owner operating it as well. As combines have grown larger and more sophisticated fewer farmers in my area own one and hire their crops harvested.

I've often wondered about co-owning equipment along those lines. It seems there would be a lot of opportunity. I know lots of people who own their own log splitters, purely for personal use, splitting a few cords per year. When you look at the hours any one splitter is used, it would make sense for several people to go in together and buy one nice one. The same could be said for more expensive equipment, perhaps things that no individual could financially justify owning.

Of course, co-owning equipment could also be a great way to ruin a friendship. I used to lend various equipment out to friends. I've learned my lesson. Anymore, the most complicated and expensive thing I lend out is a shovel. If things get much more expensive/complex than that, the loan comes with an operator (me). Then there is always that one person who can manage to break an anvil. How do you decide what is abuse or an accident that some individual should pay to repair vs normal wear and tear?

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

On getting decent pricing on long copper cable in heavier gauges. In the fall watch for jumper cables to go on sale at NAPA, and the other Parts houses. Traditionally the jumper cables go on sale once a year during the get ready for fall sale, in September.

I wired the Tiny Truck, with cables from the battery, to Anderson connectors at both ends of the truck, using 4-ga copper jumper cable I got from NAPA when they had them on sale in the fall. Originally did just the front, so I can hook up the snow plow. But after I added the reciever mount winch for the front, I decided that it would be nice to use it on the rear and ran wire to there. And, since I stated at one end of the jumper cables and cut to fit, I ended up with about 15-feet of one set left over. So I added the Anderson Connector to it, and keep the jumper cables in the tool box. Tiny Trucks battery is on the side, and has a cover held in place with four bolts, so it isn’t convenient to jump from, but the connectors on the bumpers are easy to get to.

 

[LD1]

Battery dependent dump trailers aren't intended for daily, all day short haul duty. If a person is going into the dirt business they should start with pto driven pumps and winches. You can run those from daylight to dark or 24 hours per day without a hiccup. What people are doing here isn't improving equipment, it's jerry rigging and we know where that will eventually lead.

Where is it eventually gonna lead?

If this were a 1-ton or a 1.5ton dump body, or a dump box insert in a 3/4ton or 1/2ton truck....that uses the SAME PUMP AND MOTOR as a dump trailer....they are wired right to the truck battery.

The ONLY reason the trailer version of a dump hoist is self contained is so it can be disconnected and used on ANY tow vehicle.

Winches, Snowplows, Dump bodies, etc all use a HIGH amperage motor/pump with some HEAVY gauge wire running them directly off the truck. But you think doing so with a dump trailer is not an improvement but its jerry-rigging instead? I guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion.....

 

[LD1]

I actually solved a lot of issues by adding some quick disconnects on the hyd lines from the lift cylinder. Then rather than tow with the truck which for me is really too small, (Tacoma) I use the tractor and use made up hyd lines to a rear remote. No more battery problems! Annnd, being a slow moving vehicle, in this area at least, no plates, no CDL, no nothing to worry about, just display the SMV sign and go. The M7060 12 speed does 39kph. Plenty fast for a 5-8mile trip into town.
A truck with a PTO would be handy though! I suspect some of us that end up with issues use these trailers hard for a few days here and there, then hardly at all for weeks. There’s really no ideal out of the box solution.

Same thing I have done.

I have some couplers at the pump to cylinder hoses. And made a couple hoses to hook to the tractor. So I can use either the tractor OR the 12v pump.

When I am cutting firewood and hauling logs with the tractor....I use the remotes. Dont even have to get off the seat and the tractor dumps the trailer about 3x faster because much higher GPM.

But there are times when I need the truck, Like delivering firewood 10 miles away, or hauling some stone or sand to a jobsite where I dont have or need the tractor.

So the 2ga wire off the truck batteries to the trailer gives me just as much confidence that the trailer WILL dump as the tractor does

 

[woody]

Okay after being out of town and then trying to play catch up with chores, I finally got both trailers and my truck wired up and ready. I did plug the trailers up just long enough to verify a difference in the sound of the pump but I have not gotten a chance to use either one yet. Should I disconnect the charging wire on the 7 pin connector or leave it and be charging from both places, I realize that is still the same source of the voltage?

 

[LD1]

Okay after being out of town and then trying to play catch up with chores, I finally got both trailers and my truck wired up and ready. I did plug the trailers up just long enough to verify a difference in the sound of the pump but I have not gotten a chance to use either one yet. Should I disconnect the charging wire on the 7 pin connector or leave it and be charging from both places, I realize that is still the same source of the voltage?

I left mine hooked up to keep a little charge in the battery for breakaway protection. But I don't go down the road with the Anderson connector hooked up. I only hook it up to dump the trailer.

 

[WranglerX]

I have rewired my 7 pin so it only put out 12 Volts to trailer battery when truck or Jeep is running.... Not really a fan of trailer battery possible draining vehicle starting battery... But its a personal thing and many may not agree....

 

[LD1]

I have rewired my 7 pin so it only put out 12 Volts to trailer battery when truck or Jeep is running.... Not really a fan of trailer battery possible draining vehicle starting battery... But its a personal thing and many may not agree....

Some vehicles have the AUX wire as switched 12v, others its not and is hot at all times.

Good idea to probe the plug with a meter, and if hot at all times, disconnect the wiring if leaving the rig sit for awhile

 

[Lastkidpicked]

Never having to worry about the state of the battery back there and knowing it will always dump. And not have the embarrassing moment when your at a customers trying to get it up and just can't

Know what's more embarrassing than that? Getting it up and can't get it back down.

You'll see that at the landfills sometimes. The guy uses the last of the battery charge to raise the trailer, and then it can't come back down. There must be benefits to the power up and power down units, because you see them (or hear them) quite often.

 

[bcp]

There must be benefits to the power up and power down units, because you see them (or hear them) quite often.

Smaller (cheaper) oil reservoir needed, as the cylinder always has oil on both sides of the piston. The unpressurized side adds to the system capacity. It could be plumbed for gravity down, if needed, but that would add to the cost.

Bruce