Dry, Lubed, or sealed.

   / Dry, Lubed, or sealed. #11  
   / Dry, Lubed, or sealed. #12  
Your 2 cents are worth a lot. A philosophy degree has likely enhanced your ability to discern what is important and what is not. You might like this book, which is a bit philosophical: "Shopcraft as Soulcraft: An Inquiry Into the Value of Work," by Matthew B. Crawford 2009. It was a New York Times bestseller.
 
   / Dry, Lubed, or sealed. #13  
Your 2 cents are worth a lot. A philosophy degree has likely enhanced your ability to discern what is important and what is not. You might like this book, which is a bit philosophical: "Shopcraft as Soulcraft: An Inquiry Into the Value of Work," by Matthew B. Crawford 2009. It was a New York Times bestseller.

:eek:I'm so tired from my own "Shopcraft/Soulcraft" that I hardly ever read anymore for enjoyment. I rise in the dark...work until it's too hot...nap...eat...then work until dark. A little TBN is my main enjoyment and an ocassional TV (no cable). Being a widower, living alone the "Shopcraft/Soulcraft" gives me time for a lot of good memories however.:) Thanks for the thought Mr Mcconoughey.
 
   / Dry, Lubed, or sealed. #14  
When I assemble an engine, I use thread sealent, on the threads and under the head of the bolt or nut. I use lock tight, on the caps, and the mains, and the camshaft retainer bolts [nuts], oil pump. Every thing else is oil. Yes after maney years, one can tell just how tight to tighten a bolt, even with a impact gun. Untill I bought a new gun, witch is more powerfull. Now I have to be very carfull when using the new inpact gun.

David-Davies
 
   / Dry, Lubed, or sealed. #15  
Another vote here for never sieze. Especially good on lug nuts - no more screeching/galling noise and loose metal particles when changing wheels.

Shopcraft as Soulcraft was a welcome read. Somebody finally making sense. Right up there with Zen & the Art of Motor Cycle Maintenance ... and I thought they didn't write them like that anymore.

-Jim
 
   / Dry, Lubed, or sealed. #16  
Anti-seize, use it pretty much on all threaded machinery fasteners unless there is some exceptional reason not to.

Anti-seize is especially useful on shiny new vehicle wheels, particularly aluminum wheels to cast iron hubs (hub centrics) before corrosion sets in and a hammer is needed to separate the components.
 

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