Drilling through powder-coat

[PA452]

I have a new trailer that has a powder-coat finish. I've had good experiences with that in the past, but I've read horror stories of when it does start to go, it comes off in sheets.

I'd like to add a way to put a lock on the ATV ramps, and the best option will involve drilling a couple holes. Am I asking for trouble drilling through the powder-coat finish? I just worry I'll be starting a failure point in the finish where I drill, even if I paint cover the edges.

 

[dusty3030]

Whether the powder coat stays on or not depends on them not you. What I mean by that is if the surface was prepped right and it was applied right, then you are good. If it wasn't, then you'll have problems whether you drill some holes or not.
I'd say drill them, scratch up the surface a little around the hole, clean it, prime / paint with a rattle can and don't worry about it.

I had a little Rice brand powder coated trailer once. When it started to flake it did come off in sheets. Metal was rusty underneath the powder coating.

 

[Aquamoose]

For extra insurance, I’d countersink the holes just enough to remove the powder coat away from the edges and touch up with enamel paint. This would eliminate the start of peeling from the holes.

 

[Motorboatin]

It is all about the pretreatment not the coating

As mentioned above you should paint the bare metal after drilling

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Drill bits sometimes tend to wander on powder coat to start. Either do a small pilot hole or heavily center punch the spot first.

Ron

 

[denchen]

What about carefully bolting a small plate to your ramps, making sure you don`t damage the paint more than is necessary, and putting a water tight mastic between the paint and the plate. Another hole in the plate for your lock, and it can rattle around as much as it likes without doing any damage. the nuts on the bolts can have a dab with a welder, so the only way of getting them off is with a angle grinder.

 

[fried1765]

For extra insurance, I’d countersink the holes just enough to remove the powder coat away from the edges and touch up with enamel paint. This would eliminate the start of peeling from the holes.

The best paint for touch-up on powder coat is a 2 part marine epoxy paint.
The very best idea, is to never buy a powder coated trailer!

 

[Redlands Okie]

Agree with the powder coat being a issue if you want to modify or repair a trailor and want to keep it some what nice looking.

 

[Renze]

There are wet touchup paint cans for powdercoat repairs. But you can also just spray some transparent underbody waxcoat around the holes.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I have a new trailer that has a powder-coat finish. I've had good experiences with that in the past, but I've read horror stories of when it does start to go, it comes off in sheets.

I've seen regular paint come off in sheets, does that mean it's the paint OR the prep???

Same with powder coat...

SR

 

[oosik]

Strange - what different manufacturers do. My Land Pride grapple is powder coated. Scrapes are touched up with rattle can and seem to be OK. My Rhino rear blade is painted with a premium automotive paint. After five years - no touchup required on the rear blade.

Both have seen service in heavy brush areas.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Proper preparation is important for any paint. My limited experience powder coat seems to be a major pain in the rear to prep it for new paint if it has started to loose its bond. Regular paint is a pain also, but way less of a pain if it starts to loose it bond. Time might change my outlook, but so far I will prefer paint.

 

[fried1765]

Proper preparation is important for any paint. My limited experience powder coat seems to be a major pain in the rear to prep it for new paint if it has started to loose its bond. Regular paint is a pain also, but way less of a pain if it starts to loose it bond. Time might change my outlook, but so far I will prefer paint.

Powder coat looks so nice when it is new!
But ......it is a PIA when it begins to chip, and flake off......and it will!
Two part marine type epoxy paint is the best.
No manufacturer uses it....but I do.
It can get scratched, but it will not chip.

 

[flyerdan]

Proper prep work is key to a good powder coat job. They used to use a chemical wash, but that would often result in the large sheets flaking off that many here have undoubtedly experienced. Sandblasting and getting it right into the booth after flashing gives a good even bond. The powder has gotten better as well, they've developed polyurethanes and epoxy based primers for marine applications, and we can all agree that that is a pretty hostile environment for metals.
To the original question, if you have to drill into the coated part, feather it back so there won't be any edges or sharp corners, then rattle can with the appropriate touch up.