Drill or No Till?

Turkeyman · Jun 7, 2006

We plant about 20 acres of food plots with the hopes of tripling this n the next 2 yrs. Soil ranges from black earth to clay to sandy loam. We plant rye grass, peas, rape, clover, sorghum, kale, millet, and wheat. Currently we broadcast these along with our fertilizer.
Current prep is discing several times and then planting. I would like to reduce the discing time down to one or two passes. We have looked into a 8' cultipacker but that will cost $700, and require another trip over the field.
If we go with a no till how much real world prep will we need?
How much prep will we need with a drill?

Any tipes on buying a used drill? Thanks

Thanks

Turkeyman · Jun 7, 2006

We plant about 20 acres of food plots with the hopes of tripling this n the next 2 yrs. Soil ranges from black earth to clay to sandy loam. We plant rye grass, peas, rape, clover, sorghum, kale, millet, and wheat. Currently we broadcast these along with our fertilizer.
Current prep is discing several times and then planting. I would like to reduce the discing time down to one or two passes. We have looked into a 8' cultipacker but that will cost $700, and require another trip over the field.
If we go with a no till how much real world prep will we need?
How much prep will we need with a drill?

Any tipes on buying a used drill? Thanks

Thanks

Farmwithjunk · Jun 8, 2006

There's a million ways to go with this. All have advantages. All have DISadvantages. Doing a food plot, you're interested in getting a good stand, but not in terms of "yield" such as you would if you were commercial farming. Still and all, you're trying to get a strong healthy crop.

I've seen several "no-till" drills and planters manufactured by KASCO of Shelbyville, Indiana. I'd lean towards something like that. If you're no-tilling, you'll need a good sprayer set-up also. Then someone needs to go through certification for restricted use chemicals, get insurance for same, and know what they're doing. Cost will be at or above "conventional tillage" methods. Time and fuel are saved.

If the ground is MILD soil, consider a field cultivator instead of discing. You'll get better results from 1 pass. If you're broadcast seeding or even drilling, you won't need "the perfect" seedbed. One pass with the cultivator, seed, then drag field or run disc LIGHTLY about an inch deep.

If the object is to hold down cost, ideally, you want to do the job with what you already have, or with the smallest investment possible. Buying ONE implement is preferable to TWO. I'd look at a field cultivator if you stay with tilling. With no-till, you're basically starting over. BIG investment.

Farmwithjunk · Jun 8, 2006

There's a million ways to go with this. All have advantages. All have DISadvantages. Doing a food plot, you're interested in getting a good stand, but not in terms of "yield" such as you would if you were commercial farming. Still and all, you're trying to get a strong healthy crop.

I've seen several "no-till" drills and planters manufactured by KASCO of Shelbyville, Indiana. I'd lean towards something like that. If you're no-tilling, you'll need a good sprayer set-up also. Then someone needs to go through certification for restricted use chemicals, get insurance for same, and know what they're doing. Cost will be at or above "conventional tillage" methods. Time and fuel are saved.

If the ground is MILD soil, consider a field cultivator instead of discing. You'll get better results from 1 pass. If you're broadcast seeding or even drilling, you won't need "the perfect" seedbed. One pass with the cultivator, seed, then drag field or run disc LIGHTLY about an inch deep.

If the object is to hold down cost, ideally, you want to do the job with what you already have, or with the smallest investment possible. Buying ONE implement is preferable to TWO. I'd look at a field cultivator if you stay with tilling. With no-till, you're basically starting over. BIG investment.

plowrup · Jun 8, 2006

At my store we rent No-Till Drills as well as Brillions (for ground that has been worked). I am a Deere Dealer as well as a Great Plains Dealer, and while the Deere no-till Drills are now top notch, I rent Great Plains. Have you called all of the Dealers around you regarding renting?

Minimal prep required for no-till, close to what you are doing for a standard Drill. As far as used, watch spacing, diameter of the Discs (opening and/or closing)( as compared to new), condition of Feed Cups,, Seed Tubes, Fertilizer (and/or) Grass Seed or Native/multiple Seed boxes), bearings, condition of closing wheels, hitch and such. If you are buying out of your local area, pay attention to closing wheel width (lots of different options here). In your area I assume that Disc Drills (not Shoe) are the norm?

plowrup · Jun 8, 2006

At my store we rent No-Till Drills as well as Brillions (for ground that has been worked). I am a Deere Dealer as well as a Great Plains Dealer, and while the Deere no-till Drills are now top notch, I rent Great Plains. Have you called all of the Dealers around you regarding renting?

Minimal prep required for no-till, close to what you are doing for a standard Drill. As far as used, watch spacing, diameter of the Discs (opening and/or closing)( as compared to new), condition of Feed Cups,, Seed Tubes, Fertilizer (and/or) Grass Seed or Native/multiple Seed boxes), bearings, condition of closing wheels, hitch and such. If you are buying out of your local area, pay attention to closing wheel width (lots of different options here). In your area I assume that Disc Drills (not Shoe) are the norm?

Turkeyman · Jun 8, 2006

Thank you both for the tips. We do not know of anyone that rents these. Got a price on a no till Kasco and it was $7500 for a 6' model. A dealer told me today that my 4720 was too small to pull a 10 ft drill. Is this accurate? As you know this is a 50 hp, 4WD unit that with ballest in all 4 tires and a FEL w/ a 4 in1 weight about 7800 ( used a quarry scale). We can disc or chisel plow the earth w/ little effort, so I think we are leaning towards a drill.

Would a overseeder work or just get torn up with our roots?

Turkeyman · Jun 8, 2006

Thank you both for the tips. We do not know of anyone that rents these. Got a price on a no till Kasco and it was $7500 for a 6' model. A dealer told me today that my 4720 was too small to pull a 10 ft drill. Is this accurate? As you know this is a 50 hp, 4WD unit that with ballest in all 4 tires and a FEL w/ a 4 in1 weight about 7800 ( used a quarry scale). We can disc or chisel plow the earth w/ little effort, so I think we are leaning towards a drill.

Would a overseeder work or just get torn up with our roots?

Farmwithjunk · Jun 9, 2006

I guess it all depends on what sort of "drill" you both are talking about. A more conventional, older style drill, you should be able to FLY with that tractor. A newer "no-till drill" such as a John Deere model 750, forget the idea of pulling it (in 10' version) with less than 100 HP and about 10,000lbs.

Look at "SUKUP" seeders. Less features than KASCO, but cheaper.

If I was buying a seeder to seed "tilled" soil, I'd lean towards Brillion. Several models with lots of options. GREAT reputation.

Farmwithjunk · Jun 9, 2006

I guess it all depends on what sort of "drill" you both are talking about. A more conventional, older style drill, you should be able to FLY with that tractor. A newer "no-till drill" such as a John Deere model 750, forget the idea of pulling it (in 10' version) with less than 100 HP and about 10,000lbs.

Look at "SUKUP" seeders. Less features than KASCO, but cheaper.

If I was buying a seeder to seed "tilled" soil, I'd lean towards Brillion. Several models with lots of options. GREAT reputation.