Don't be a safety chain slacker

[bcp]

Yesterday I was stopped in traffic beside a pickup towing a dump trailer. The safety chains were about 4 feet long, and almost dragging the ground, BUT, they were crossed for safety. If it had uncoupled, the tongue would have drug the road anyway, and had about 8 feet side-to-side and front-to-back swing.

Many times we have heard the advice "Cross your chains to make a cradle to keep the tongue off the road in case the coupler disconnects" but I bet few people actually check their chains to see if that is true for their setup.

Have you ever tested your chain adjustment by dropping/lowering your tongue to see if it is caught by the chains?

Attached are some photos of what I believe is excessive slack that defeats the crossed-chain purpose. And a photo of a test.

Bruce

 

[lexluther]

Nice license plate in your photos of what not to do...
good point about testing.

 

[Wagtail]

Thanks for this, Bruce. I suppose that I would be one of the 'slackers', although not to the point of chain dragging.

It's ignorance, pure and simple. Up until your posting no one had ever explained to me the reason for crossing the chains as a 'cupping/cradling' action. I'd simply been told to cross the chains and that was good enough for me not to further investigate why, other than preventing a run-away float/trailer.

 

[ray66v]

Having had a trailer come uncoupled, I can tell you, I will never use hooks like the ones in the photo's.

An uncoupling is potentially a violent event.

The trailer jerks back hard, to the limit of the chains. Any braking by the towing vehicle, causes the trailer to jerk forward, where the tongue hits the towing vehicle, or the chains catch it again. This process repeats. Sometimes, until the hooks fail.

No better definition of surreal, than being passed by your own trailer.

Since that event, I only use heavy duty quick links to attach the safety chains to the towing vehicle, which are closed hand tight. They cannot come unhooked.

It's less convenient than the chain hooks. But, much less inconvenient than having your trailer get loose.

Amazon.com : Invincible Marine 5/16-Inch Stainless Steel Quick Link : Sailing Shackles : Sports & Outdoors

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I find it interesting that the 2 pics with the license plates in them both have the hooks attached backwards. If that thing pops loose from the hitch ball and bounces back into the chains and then forward again, those hooks are coming off. Pic in the upper right corner has the hooks going the right direction. Harder to tell in the pic below that one, but looks like they may be backwards too.

 

[bcp]

The 2 left photos hooks have the springy safety wire.

I've never liked the bent-rod hooks, so have always changed to stronger safety hooks, or quick links with a WLL marking.

Gravity keeping the hooks on isn't reliable enough for me.

Bruce

 

[Looking4new]

I use safety hooks, myself.

 

[boggen]

Having had a trailer come uncoupled, I can tell you, I will never use hooks like the ones in the photo's.

An uncoupling is potentially a violent event.

The trailer jerks back hard, to the limit of the chains. Any braking by the towing vehicle, causes the trailer to jerk forward, where the tongue hits the towing vehicle, or the chains catch it again. This process repeats. Sometimes, until the hooks fail.

No better definition of surreal, than being passed by your own trailer.

Since that event, I only use heavy duty quick links to attach the safety chains to the towing vehicle, which are closed hand tight. They cannot come unhooked.

It's less convenient than the chain hooks. But, much less inconvenient than having your trailer get loose.

Amazon.com : Invincible Marine 5/16-Inch Stainless Steel Quick Link : Sailing Shackles : Sports & Outdoors

X2

one trailer coming off the ball and a dent in bumper and tail gate was enough for me. glady only going less than 10 to 15MPH.

taken up the slack is a requirement for me now. so if it does come loose. it does not have as much "jarring" effect. and half way stays right near were it should be when hooked up. with just enough slack, to jack knife/ to deal with corning sharply.

the chains on one of the trailers i have, the chains are to long, pending on vehicle. and normally end up twirling the chains together. to reduce the slack.

========
also use same style of connection of what you linked to.

standard hooks, *shakes head no* dealt with enough log chain / tow chain, that i would not trust the hook staying on.

have tried some other types of connections for dealing with some logs. and they just bend completely under a very low load. more like a shear bolt.

the only thing i do not like about the connectors you link to. is the bloody threaded connection. wants to jamb up (just a little bit of rust / dirt / grim / dust) and can be heck to get un-screwed, or screwed back up. and by the time you put on some PB blaster or like. wrenches to channel locks begin slipping. but... i have yet been able to physical damage them to point the loop breaks, and causes a chain or like to come undone. (i end up messing something else up *DOH*)

 

[dragoneggs]

Many years ago I bought my first little trailer (maybe 5' x 7' w/ plywood sides and bottom) at a garage sale. I proudly hooked it up and hauled it home. No safety chains. I was taking it easy, driving through a suburban neighborhood (no sidewalks) and noticed my new to me trailer passing me on the right when I took a left hand turn. I FREAKED. Luckily it didn't hurt anyone or anything before braking itself with the tongue. There was a small dent in the left side trailer fender I think from hitting the corner of my rear bumper.

Ever since that inauguration, I make sure the ball is sized and seated right, chains crossed, release lever pinned, and electrical works. Especially if I am towing something for the first time or it isn't mine.

 

[BLSXJ]

Has anyone notice the "pictures with a license plate" are from Curt manufacturing... a trailer hitch manufacture! lol