Front-End Loader Does the Ford 19-209 (711) 1 Arm Loader Fit on my 1968 Ford 2000 3 Cyl Diesel?

[Rford]

Pretty smart idea. Maybe that would work, assuming I know what it bolts to. Here's a bolster photo but I don't know if it helps. It is the "light" bolster and I think its the same as yours. I think, based upon a picture you'd posted a while back, that the bracket "hangs down" and is not bolted horizontally. It looks to like the bracket would bolt through the bolster using a couple longer bolts. There are some bolt holes on the bottom of the bolster but I don't think those are for the bracket. A manual would answer that. I just ordered a parts book and a installation manual on Ebay so I ought to be in business soon.
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[Gale Hawkins]

Pretty smart idea. Maybe that would work, assuming I know what it bolts to. Here's a bolster photo but I don't know if it helps. It is the "light" bolster and I think its the same as yours. I think, based upon a picture you'd posted a while back, that the bracket "hangs down" and is not bolted horizontally. It looks to like the bracket would bolt through the bolster using a couple longer bolts. There are some bolt holes on the bottom of the bolster but I don't think those are for the bracket. A manual would answer that. I just ordered a parts book and a installation manual on Ebay so I ought to be in business soon.
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Yes your bolster does look the same as ours. What was throwing me off and making your photo so different at first was no power steering pump.

We learned today the front axle has to be in the narrow position but then our radial arm was tagging the hip bracket. We are now shifting the ball end of the radial arm out with a half inch thick plate metal shim. It would be nice to see the install/mounting shop manual from 50+ years ago. Let us know if the installation manual covers the need to shim out like this.

 

[Rford]

Should be here by Friday and I'll read it and copy that page and send it to you. I tried to pattern one myself using the copy machine and was close, need to blow it up a bit more but I think I have it close. I measure 5 inches ctr to ctr on the mounting holes, and and a 1.5 inch mounting hole in the bracket. Probably cut it to size, drill the two bolt holes, then mount the loader to mark the mounting hole location, unless I'm real confident I've got it right. Or maybe a plywood mock up first.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Sounds like good progress. While it was all chopped up I am glad we had a home made front bracket as a starting point.

We are 4 days from tractor show set-up time at the fairgrounds with a lot of work to do ran out of cutting gas on a Saturday but got other important stuff done and I did think to pull out the camera to show where we are and the relocated new hoses and ends from the OEM controller.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

A guy that lives near the shop helping get our 3000 ready for the antique tractor show in two days came down with his 125 Case International and helped press the bend out of our loader bucket leading edge. It was not an easy task because he had to clear the front axle more than once while the shop owner was whacking with a shop hammer. The tractor's front end would come down with each blow of the hammer

The second photo was after the tractor press and hammer approach was used. That should be a photo above from the day we brought it home from Nashville IN. If I find it quickly I will post it below.

Today was more cleaning and painting and tomorrow is more of the same.

 

[Soundguy]

Looks like you got the wobble out. I had a 711 bucket that I re skinned that had a bow like that. I used a 20 ton bottle jack and chain. laid chain on the ground, set bottle jack on it, hooked chain to right and left sides of the cutting edge and snugged bottle jack to bottom side. then started pumping the jack. Hyds proved stronger than the edge.. I took it a little past center and when it relaxed, it was great. Same method can be used to straighten radius rods.

Way easier than a second tractor and swinging a big hammer. When you work alone like I do you have to get crafty.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Looks like you got the wobble out. I had a 711 bucket that I re skinned that had a bow like that. I used a 20 ton bottle jack and chain. laid chain on the ground, set bottle jack on it, hooked chain to right and left sides of the cutting edge and snugged bottle jack to bottom side. then started pumping the jack. Hyds proved stronger than the edge.. I took it a little past center and when it relaxed, it was great. Same method can be used to straighten radius rods.

Way easier than a second tractor and swinging a big hammer. When you work alone like I do you have to get crafty.

I think the shop owner was trying to save some time yesterday. He did use a porta jack on the top bow and his hydraulic press to straighten the bent radius arms on the 3600.

That was amazing work that you did to reclaim it. So far today I gotten the lower grille straighten and paint and removed the metal letters in the upper grille and repainted that grille and painted red centers in FORD. There was more but now I have to get all this stuff to the shop. He had a corn planter that he had to travel to and tear down so he can order the needed parts. The want the tractors set up late tomorrow at the fairgrounds and we will make it if he has finished reinforcing the bucket so I can paint it. Thanks for all of your 711 input over the years.

 

[Rford]

This is now the One-Armed Loader Group Forum it seems....After having no luck getting anyone to send me a pattern for my front bracket, I took Gale's suggestion and blew up a photo that Ultradog MN has sent me on a copier until I had a close approximation of the right size for the bracket. Took some measurements off the tractor and tweaked that paper pattern a little and used it to make a wood template. Mounted the wood bracket to the tractor and it was pretty close, but had to tweak that a bit. It's a close fit. The local welding shop took my pictures, wood template, and notes and made what I think will bolt right up. We'll see. I also got a parts manual off EBay and although it is complete, printed in 1965 with a 1970 update, it doesn't really help much. I got the Loader Assembly Manual today and that really helps. It would have answered all my questions and even the photocopied version is clear enough to see what's what. I'll feel confident getting it put on the tractor and my homemade bracket is the correct one.

Here are pictures of the original photo, paper pattern, wood template and final product.

Gale: FYI, the assembly manual says you do need a spacer on the radius arm end to make the hip bracket fit.Shim Part. No. 292294. Odd, the installation kit for the 2000-3000 (Kit No. 19-382) didn't come with the shim. Also, the manual says I'm supposed to cut off the top bar of the bumper, as well as remove the left headlight. I'll probably take off the bumper. Or find a spare to cut when I'm using the loader. Maybe Soundguy knows if the spacer is available or if the bumper really needs chopped off.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Rford that was a gold mine of info for the 3 cylinder Fords. Did it mention the thickness of the shim. On a guess last week we went with 1/2" and for the heck of it when with one on each side. Might would go with 5/8" shim IF there was ever another time. I expect no shim was what broke our hip joint at some point in the past. They added some bracing when it was rewelded that made it a little thick. David figured out on his own Ford had a shim at some point in the past. I will share your find with him tomorrow. With my physical and mental limitations I do not think I could have pulled off the 711 install.

Shots of the shim and two of the front pin final fit in the front bracket that was about 1" two far forward for some reason.

 

[Rford]

Nothing on the shim, not a picture or anything. My assumption is it was a single piece. I might use three spacers from the hardware store or head back to the machine shop to have them fab something up. As detailed as the install manual was I was surprised it had nothing but "buy shim no. xxxx" but I guess when new that wasn't a big deal. Probably a $5 part.