DK40 clicks but won't turn over, battery ok

[caver]

I've seen others on here have a similar problem. It started last year and it seemed like a dead cell in the battery. Replaced battery with a known good battery and the problem returned. It happened again yesterday so is there a known problem with these units before I start checking every high current connection. Hopefully the video will embed from my photo website. Click on the picture and it should take you to my Smugmug site where the video is.

 

[ritcheyvs]

The video ran a little fast to be sure, but it sounds like the starter solenoid does engage but without spinning the starter motor. The dash lights did not dim significantly so I don't suspect a problem with the battery or battery cables. I think I hear the stop solenoid retract and release normally when you turn the key to "on" and "off". I think the loud clack is the starter solenoid; it seems to coincide with turning the switch to crank and back but the audio isn't exactly synchronized with the video on my PC so I'm not certain of that.

Recommend you get a helper and measure the voltage at both of the big connections on the starter solenoid with the switch in "on" and again when it is turned to "crank". This will tell you if the solenoid is the likely problem or if it's the actual starter. You can try the brute-force starter test to be sure the problem is the starter and not the circuitry that controls it. You can also jump (use a big wire) the two big terminals on the solenoid to see if the starter will spin with power applied (it should if it's OK); this should not engage the flywheel without the solenoid being powered but be in neutral anyway.

You might try lightly striking the starter with a hammer while the switch is held in the crank position. Sometimes this will temporarily "fix" a marginal solenoid contact or sticky starter commutator brush. I suspect there is a new ir rebuilt starter in your future but before you start swapping parts, be sure you are swapping the right parts.

 

[caver]

Thanks ritcheyvs, nice link I can print off and take over with me next weekend if I go to my property. That was a quick and dirty video with my phone. This winter I had a better camera set up to capture it and wouldn't you know it cranked every time.

On edit:
I uploaded to youtube if that helps.
https://youtu.be/nqhOW7MwpIg

 

[caver]

Well I get over there late today and dayum if my backhoe has a similar problem. So I focused on the tractor as I wanted to unload a backhoe bucket out of my truck bed before I drove back home. One of those Craigslist finds I unhook the wires from the solenoid and really wasted a bunch of time when I just should have jumpered the start solenoid wire like in the link shared by rictheyvs. Runs fine so I suspect it's the key switch as I see others have had that problem before. I brought it home to tinker with as it was just nasty hot over there. How do you remove the key switch assy from the plastic console? Is there a wiring diagram online somewhere?

 

[k0ua]

Well I get over there late today and dayum if my backhoe has a similar problem. So I focused on the tractor as I wanted to unload a backhoe bucket out of my truck bed before I drove back home. One of those Craigslist finds I unhook the wires from the solenoid and really wasted a bunch of time when I just should have jumpered the start solenoid wire like in the link shared by rictheyvs. Runs fine so I suspect it's the key switch as I see others have had that problem before. I brought it home to tinker with as it was just nasty hot over there. How do you remove the key switch assy from the plastic console? Is there a wiring diagram online somewhere?

There is a thread I started with pictures. The just of it is remove the four screws from the clamshell housing. And squeeze the sides of the clamshell to release the side catches and it falls apart. The key switch is attached to the wiring harness with a molex connector.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...286824-kioti-dk-throttle-lubrication-pix.html

 

[caver]

I meant getting the actual key switch assembly apart. Does the collar just screw off?

 

[k0ua]

I meant getting the actual key switch assembly apart. Does the collar just screw off?

I dunno. I have never had mine apart. I just sprayed in the lock with fluid film and worked it with the key. But many have taken them apart. So maybe one who's done so will chime in here.

 

[JerryK]

Could also be a bad connection/cable on your positive cable going to the starter. These problems usually about 90% or more of the time is the big cables/battery connectors/connectors/etc. If you get your meter out, check between the big solenoid stud and the battery stud when you try to crank her..... Your +12 going to the start switch and dash lights might be coming right off the battery connector, and not off the solenoid stud.

 

[caver]

The switch contact block is attached to the back of the key tumbler with one small Philips head screw. If you take that out the pieces will pop apart. WARNING a few small pieces will fly apart. There are two ball bearings on the side of the black plastic cylinder that fits down inside the white plastic piece. There are also two larger springs but they just fell out. I couldn't find one of the ball bearings so substituted a slightly smaller BB. This is for the spring return function and probably detent position. Inside there is a copper plate with raised ridges for switch contact. Mine was a little gummy but I assume they assemble this with dielectric grease. The black pirce where the wires are soldered to reads....solid color/stripe color =is the raised letters on the switch
BK/WH= ST
BK/RD=G
RD=AM
RD/WH=M
RD/BU=ACC

 

[4570Man]

My mower used to do the same thing. I thought there was a stupid safety switch that went bad, so I shorted across the starter with a screw driver. It started right up conforming my theory. Finding out which safety was bad was a little harder. It was the pto safety, it thought the pto was engaged even though it wasn't.