DK40 50 hr service

[murphy1244]

I don't understand why the Ventrac is 2000 hour. That's a lot of time

 

[GMIslander]

Owners manual and service manual state Transmission and HST filters at 50 hrs. then at 200 hrs. Trans and HST oil at 400 hrs.
Service manual wants the front axle oil changed at 50 hrs. and again at 400 hrs.

 

[IslandTractor]

I don't understand why the Ventrac is 2000 hour. That's a lot of time

Not if you consider it an automobile transmission. Some of those are now "never change" while others are up to 70-80K miles as I recall. Even 50K miles would be ballpark equivalent to 1000 hours.

 

[murphy1244]

Owners manual and service manual state Transmission and HST filters at 50 hrs. then at 200 hrs. Trans and HST oil at 400 hrs.
Service manual wants the front axle oil changed at 50 hrs. and again at 400 hrs.

That is correct but owners manual will have a dot on the hydro oil at 50 hours.

 

[ksbrdmkr]

My Kioti DK45 manual states "However, replace only the filter after initial 50-hour operation" So Kioti recommends not to change transmission oil at 50hrs.

 

[GMIslander]

That is correct but owners manual will have a dot on the hydro oil at 50 hours.

So there is a discrepancy between "Major maintenance items" and "Maintenance Schedule Chart" ?
What next?

 

[GMIslander]

"However, replace only the filter after initial 50-hour operation"

Found it on page 7-14

 

[murphy1244]

Found it on page 7-14

see 7-4 transmission fluid has dot for 50 hours.

 

[k0ua]

The good news is you can change it if you want or not change it.. I changed it, and was glad I did, Mine was sort of dark in the tub, and full of what looked like dried paint pieces to me. It did not appear dark on the stick, but was definitely darker than the Mobilfluid 424 I poured back in it.

James K0UA

 

[murphy1244]

That is Good News indeed.

 

[MotorSeven]

I think a total fluid change is a good idea at 50. When I changed it again around 4-500 it was clear as it could be, so I am not convinced it is needed then. Almost at 1K & I am debating whether or not to change it or just the filters....but I will probably cave and do it anyway.

On a positive note I am converting the wood stove in the shop to burn used motor/hyd oil...so it is no longer going to be wasted.

 

[grm61]

I apologize for the 59th thread on this topic, but I did read a bunch of the previous ones and did not seem to fnid a definative answer. Thanks in advance for bearing with me.

My Dk40 w/ KL401 and KB2875 is at 48 hours, and my inlaws are coming this weekend (meaning I'll be outside or in the shop all weekend), so I'm going to get my 50 hour service out of the way. I have two questions:

1 - Did you guys replace your hydraulic fluid, or just the filter and top off the fluid?
2 - My manual says that the system holds 11 gallons of fluid. When you replaced your hydro fluid, did you find that you needed 11 gallons to get it back to full, or was it less?

I did the fluid and filters, It took 11 gallons, draining the finals as well.
I'm glad I did both fluid and filters.
In the large tub, you could stir the oil with your finger and see the metalic crap, kind of like a metalic paint would look if stirred, no way I would want that stuff in there for 400 hours.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

Got it all done this weekend - changed the engine oil/filter, replaced the front axle fluid with 80/90w gear oil, changed out the hydraulid fluid with Traveller Premium UTF, replaced the fuel filter and bled the system, another trip around with the grease gun, and torqued every bolt I could find. All told, probably took around 5 hours - most of which was waiting for the front axle and hydro system to fill. On top of being slow-flowing, the funnel I used had a built-in filter, so there was a whole lot of standing around, sipping coffee, and waiting on the funnel to drain.

I didn't run into any of the filter removal problems that other report. All four of them came off with my old-standby Rigid strap wrench.

In the end, I found another grease zerk I didn't know about (better late than never, I guess), and a failed lock washer on one of bolts on the front backhoe subframe receiver. Glad I took the time to do it myself. I can't imagine paying someone else to do the job - at least i hope no one does it out of intimidation of the process. It really was easy, and I know my machine a little better now.

 

[VictorW]

I'm not sure about the DK40SE hst front diff but when filling my CK30hst, it's a two step process. Fill it to what is full, drive it around for about 50 yds. and then recheck. It's always low then and have to top off. Rotating the gears at the ends must take the fluid to places it won't normally flow to. Others with a 40 can tell you if it's the same as the 30.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

I think that is SOP when changing any circulating fluid. The initial dipstick (or sight glass, in this case) level always reads high right after the refill. It is not until you've circulated the system, that you find out where the level actually ended up.
Same is true even with an engine oil change in a car. I always run it a few minutes, see where it ended up, and add back tot he level I want to be at.

 

[murphy1244]

Rcheck all the Fluids after a warm up.

 

[CJONE]

I think a total fluid change is a good idea at 50. When I changed it again around 4-500 it was clear as it could be, so I am not convinced it is needed then. Almost at 1K & I am debating whether or not to change it or just the filters....but I will probably cave and do it anyway.

On a positive note I am converting the wood stove in the shop to burn used motor/hyd oil...so it is no longer going to be wasted.

I do agree with the total fluid change at 50 hours. Mine had all kinds of crap [shavings ect] in it. I just did my filters at 350 hours and will do a change at about 800 hours. A fluid test at 400 will tell me if it needs changed but I doubt it. Most of the hyd. oils have a 2000 hour min life, the brakes would be the main source of contaminants and I never use them except as a parking brake. CJ