TXHF
Silver Member
I know there's a guy who makes these in OK but It looks far too simple to spend $150 on one when I can do it for under $50 myself.
I bought a 16 lb T post driver and had a 5/8" receiver pin handy. Some 2" x 1/4" flat steel and a piece of strut channel was laying around. I had to buy the rod-end bearing, a bolt to fit it and two 1/2" bolts with washers and nuts.
I cut three pieces of the 2" stock and center drilled the 5" piece to receive the bolt for the rod-end. I bolted the rod-end to this steel then notched the other two pieces of steel to fit around the hex head. The thickness was needed to clear the bolt head on top of the post driver. I welded the rod-end to the plate as well. The bolt was to add strength to the rod-end to be sure it didn't collapse. I ground off the powder coating from the post driver and welded this to the top. The rod-end is rated for 10,000 lbs. I took a piece of strut channel and drilled two sets of holes through the sides to put the hitch pin through. I then added two gussets to be sure the strut channel doesn't fold or collapse. The second hole in the strut was for a long carriage bolt where I will attach a length of chain with a steel plate at the other end to mark the T Post depth. I'll have an updated photo of that once the paint dries. The strut will mount to the under-side of the bucket with two drilled 1/2" holes, the driver will suspend from the strut channel using the hitch pin. I'm quite certain this will be more than adequate for driving 300 posts. I will try and get a video if us in action when this does take place.
I know, my welding leaves a lot to be desired... I'm still learning!
I bought a 16 lb T post driver and had a 5/8" receiver pin handy. Some 2" x 1/4" flat steel and a piece of strut channel was laying around. I had to buy the rod-end bearing, a bolt to fit it and two 1/2" bolts with washers and nuts.
I cut three pieces of the 2" stock and center drilled the 5" piece to receive the bolt for the rod-end. I bolted the rod-end to this steel then notched the other two pieces of steel to fit around the hex head. The thickness was needed to clear the bolt head on top of the post driver. I welded the rod-end to the plate as well. The bolt was to add strength to the rod-end to be sure it didn't collapse. I ground off the powder coating from the post driver and welded this to the top. The rod-end is rated for 10,000 lbs. I took a piece of strut channel and drilled two sets of holes through the sides to put the hitch pin through. I then added two gussets to be sure the strut channel doesn't fold or collapse. The second hole in the strut was for a long carriage bolt where I will attach a length of chain with a steel plate at the other end to mark the T Post depth. I'll have an updated photo of that once the paint dries. The strut will mount to the under-side of the bucket with two drilled 1/2" holes, the driver will suspend from the strut channel using the hitch pin. I'm quite certain this will be more than adequate for driving 300 posts. I will try and get a video if us in action when this does take place.
I know, my welding leaves a lot to be desired... I'm still learning!
Attachments
-
20170707_153553.jpg1.1 MB · Views: 6,411
-
rod_end.jpg104.9 KB · Views: 1,538
-
Bar_stock.jpg38.2 KB · Views: 1,442
-
20170707_153901.jpg3 MB · Views: 3,950
-
20170707_153739.jpg3 MB · Views: 2,434
-
20170707_153716.jpg3.2 MB · Views: 3,104
-
20170707_153636.jpg1.1 MB · Views: 3,374
-
20170707_164013.jpg963.3 KB · Views: 1,228
-
20170707_164031.jpg935.2 KB · Views: 1,505