Diverter valve problem?

[Dargo]

After scratching my head for a while and feeling like a fool, I finally started a process of elimination and think the problem is my diverter valve on my JD 5525 tractor. My tractor came from the factory with the plumbing out on the FEL for a grapple etc. Yesterday is the first time I tried to use it and it didn't work. After hooking up my 4-in-1 bucket the tractor wouldn't open the bucket. I could hear the valve under my right foot clicking (cab tractor) but nothing happened. After consulting the manual it said to use a small punch to loosen a possible stuck valve on either end of the valve. The rear moved freely but the front part was stuck solid until I tapped the punch with a small hammer.

Once I knocked that part enough to where it could be moved by just pushing in on it with the punch I tried using it again. This time it sort of worked. It took about 4 minutes to fully open the 4-in-1 bucket and about 4 minutes to close the bucket. Obviously not exactly usable this way. My question is whether this valve may loosen up if I try running it more or if the valve is shot? Any thoughts?

 

[J_J]

It is probably gummed up from non use. You could take the solenoid loose and see if is loose enough. Might have a little rust some where. Is it protected from the elements. You might also try working the valve a lot to free the spool. Read page 203 about silting, and chip particles.

Contamination effects in a servo spool.

http://books.google.com/books?id=c2...lve illustrated&pg=PA203#v=onepage&q=&f=false

 

[Dargo]

Well, I have one of those good news/bad news stories. The good news is that the electric diverter valves on the JD 55X5 series tractors are simple devices and are easy to access. The bad news is that it's apparently not uncommon for the solenoids to corrode internally and go bad. I did a lot of snow plowing last year, like 100 hours worth, and drove on a lot of salt covered roads. The valves catch the direct spray off the right front tire if you make any type of right hand turn. It looks like they started to corrode just a bit and the corrosion allowed moisture to very slightly seep past the O ring seal. The bottom line is that the spool and internal valve are just fine but the electrically operated solenoids are bad and they are $225 each! After trying in vein for a couple of hours to fix mine I broke down and ordered a couple of new ones.

One of the JD techs told me that it's not all that uncommon for them to go bad when they aren't used for years, such was my case. I forgot to ask him if it would help to just hit the up and down switch with nothing attached ever so often or if doing so wouldn't help any. Man, this stinks. It's not been a good week for me. I'm ready for next week already.

 

[J_J]

I would still think you could free up the plunger by activating the coil many times. Spray some penetrating oil and keep working the switch.

 

[Dargo]

I would still think you could free up the plunger by activating the coil many times. Spray some penetrating oil and keep working the switch.

Thanks for the suggestion. Believe me, I'd try! Unfortunately it's sort of an odd setup that is basically an electromagnet and is sealed....well, was sealed anyway. I took one of them apart by force. It's basically a round tube with a small electrical box on one side where it receives voltage when you activate the switch. Per the JD repair guide, the part is not serviceable and, if it doesn't work, replacement is required. As I said, I took it apart anyway. It was pretty corroded inside and the two internal wires broke off with only about a pound or two of pressure (I let the little plastic part hang from the main body and the wires broke off just from the weight of the plastic cover). That's when I felt I had to throw the towel in.

Hopefully I didn't mess up by not buying the entire assembly, which only included the internal valve, which was about a hundred bucks more. The internal valve has been bathed in hydraulic oil and was in no way corroded or gummed up. It moved through the assembly freely by hand. I didn't want to spend any more than I had to.

 

[J_J]

So, what did you replace, the coils. The coils should not be that much. Does your complete valve look like this?

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009100918180745&item=9-6136&catname=hydraulic

 

[Dargo]

They had to order the parts. They'll be in tomorrow. They aren't anywhere close to normal ones like the ones you linked. They are round steel cylinders that slip over the outer round plunger rod with the windings inside them and a plastic boxes on one side. Here are a couple of pictures I took with my phone so I'd remember where things went but they don't include the solenoids. They go over the round part sticking out in the first picture. The 2nd picture shows the valve that just slides out. It looked just fine.

*edit*
I just realized when looking at the (bad) pictures that in the 1st picture there is a 1/4" drive and extension with the Torx end on it sticking out of the bottom screw holding the plunger on the valve body. The tool makes it really confusing when looking at the picture.

 

[Dargo]

New parts came in today and I had everything working within 10 minutes. Here are a couple pictures of the offending solenoids.

 

[J_J]

Test the resistance in the new coils , and write it down. Then test the old coils, and compare? If good, put a bolt through the center and apply 12 v and see if it becomes an electromagnet. If it does, you may have two extra coils.