Tiller Disk vs tiller revisited

[Bird]

Alan, I don't have one, so I could be wrong, but I think a 5' disk would be real handy for breaking up and smoothing ground after it had been broken up with a turning plow, but otherwise, I seriously doubt that you could do much good with it.

Bird

 

[cowboydoc]

Bill,
You're right on the price! It is pricey. But the more you buy the more discount they give you. That's why I'm only going to try a small area and see how it goes. Then if it does like it says it will I'll plant more.

 

[Billc]

Hey Rich, you may be on to something here. You said there is a discount - the more you buy the bigger the discount - heck, let's go in together and buy in quanity...if we buy enough maybe they will just give it to us for free....maybe even pay us to take it!!!??? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[cowboydoc]

Bill,
I completely agree on that!

 

[Alan L.]

Well even though most of you have discouraged it I called Tractor Supply yesterday and priced a tandem disk. They had a 6.5 foot one for $499, made by King Kutter. I called my dealer and he had one made by Modern, a 5.5 foot for $990.

I haven't been able to find a second hand disk or tiller either one. I looked at King Kutter's website and they don't list a tiller at all, but several on the compact tractor board are happy with theirs.

I thought about renting a tiller, but it being spring the weekends are probably already full, and I haven't found anybody that rents them anyway.

Alan L., TX

 

[jimmoore]

go to off topic and just for fun topic WEATHER page 4 or 5 and see the garden pics that I posted and you can see what a weighted 5' DISC and a 21 hp tractor can do!

jim

 

[jimmoore]

if you put a couple of house blocks on the disc and shorten the top link until the back gang does't touch the ground, you will put all the weight on the front cutting gang. lap back half over each pass to keep from getting ridges. disc both ways and after the soil is loosened up lenghten the top link til it cuts AND smooths

jim

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>I looked at King Kutter's website and they don't list a tiller at all</font color=blue>

Alan, I'm not sure just how KingKutter company is divided up, whether there's two companies, or just what. But I have a brochure on KingKutter implements with the web site "www.kingkutter.com" and an address in Winfield, AL, phone (205) 487-3202 (no tiller included in the brochure). Then I have another brochure for "KingKutterII" in Gallipolis, OH (no phone number on the brochure) that is just for their "Gear Driven Rotary Tiller". They show two models, a 60" and a 72", and I contacted them and got the brochures after seeing one of the tillers at Tractor Supply Co. in Waxahachie. Sure looks like a good tiller.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

KingKutter II from Ohio produces the Heavy Duty Tiller... to be web posted soon along with a brand new "BX" implement line. Full operator and parts manuals will be posted as well. This is a High quality company for low money... that's going places. {and no I don't have any stock in the company... just a very very happy and impressed end-user}

For product info and dealer/store location:
KingKutter-Manufacturers of Rotary Mowers & Farm Equipment

1-800-228-2308

 

[Alan L.]

Thanks for info. The disk at tractor supply seemed pretty high at $499 for the KK until my dealer quoted $990 for a Modern. If the disk gets into that range I might have to just go with a tiller, but I don't want to pay $2K for one.

I have a Modern box blade which works fine, but I have heard negative comments about their products. I think they are down in Beaumont Tx.

For $200 or $300 I would consider a second-hand disk with weights and hope to scuff up the ground enough to sort of mix in the organic material or topsoil coming in. And I would sure try that method of shortening the top link - sounds like a good idea.

My budget just got tighter because my $700 deck just turned into a $1300 deck. Have any of you priced cedar lately? A 2X6X16 is $19 (compared to $7 for treated lumber).

Maybe I can drag some bedsprings over the ground.........

Alan L., TX

 

[cowboydoc]

Alan,
My neighbor has a 10 foot hydraulic disc for sale for $175. Around here they rarely go for alot more than that.

 

[Alan L.]

Wish I could find a similar deal. Maybe I just don't know where to look. Do the hydraulics hook up to the tractor? I don't think I've got a place to plug into on my 2710, plus unfortunately my little tractor might not be able to budge a 10 footer.

Alan L., TX

 

[cowboydoc]

Yes the hydraulics hook up to the tractor. Those discs like you are talking about from KK though go really cheap at the farm sales that I've been to, like $100.

 

[fishman]

Alan,

My dad had a Ford 1100 for about 20 years and serviced about a 1 acre garden with it. Actually, I did most of the work 'cause I thought it was COOL,/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif and it was! It had 11 drawbar hp (4wd) and it pulled a single bottom plow and a 4 foot disk. We weighted the disk with a large piece of railroad steel that must have weighed 200 lbs, don't know, because I wasn't big enough to take it off. Changing the angle of the top link caused it to cut more or less, and also allowed you to throw dirt to the center to make terraces to control erosion. Call it a "toy" disk if you like, but it busted up the soil fine enough to use a walk-behind planter. But folks are right, the soil moisture is very important, too wet and it clumps between the disk's blades. To dry and you have to make umpteen passes to break up the clods. Just a matter of experience. If I were in your shoes and were buying new, I would go for the tiller, given the small price difference you are seeing. But if I could get a used plow and disk for cheap, I know they would do fine. I second Bird's opinion that you would need to plow it first, and you would not be happy with the results from just disking.

Also, one more thing. If the plow and/or disk you buy is severely pitted from rust, it will not sluff the dirt very well and you will be unhappy. Plows and disks require periodic washing and coating with a rust inhibiter, in my experience. We always used old motor oil. Maybe a tiller wouldn't be as bad about that.