Disc Question

[Typhoon]

Greetings. I have a question about using a disc for a couple of tasks. First, I just had a 4 acre pond built on my property, and next week we are going to have to seed the levy and some other areas down in feskew, alfalfa, clover, etc. Anyways, the soil will need to be broken up to plant seed in it. And I am thinking about buying a 5ft disc for my TC29D to do the job with. Will the disc do what im needing it to do? And will my tractor have enough power to pull it? I have never used a disc so im not sure what to expect. Also, my dad is building a new house, and this fall he wants to plant a lawn around it. Right now, its all clover. So will this disc be enough to till it up to plant grass? Or do I need to hire someone to come in with a big tractor and do this? Thanks!
-Brad

 

[kensfarm]

The young farmer that rents some of my ground preps his seed beds by first hitting it w/ a chisel plow.. then disks.. then uses a cultipacker. The finished bed looks smooth and is ready for seed.

I guess a lot depends on how hard and the type of soil you have.. just using a disk can work.

 

[dummy]

A good rototiller would be a lot easier. Might check the rental places first and try one out.

 

[pd444]

Tell us more about the pond!

 

[fire72]

I'd suggest renting a tiller. Your tractor will handle a disk that size, but the disk won't be heavy enough to get into the soil and give you a decent seedbed. My six foot disk behind my NH 1920 does fine breaking up freshly plowed ground, but i just doesn't have the weight to break up ground by itself. Unless this will be a frequent task, you're money ahead to rent the tiller, and it will do a better job too.

 

[Alan L.]

Depends on how much you need to do. If its a small area a tiller is much better. But on a larger area - an acre plus, a disk is faster (although still not as good). I have used my disk to make seedbeds with good success. It takes multiple passes however. I use a 6.5 foot disk behind my Kubota B2710 (27 gross, 20 PTO HP). I put a couple hundred pounds of ballast on there and it works fine after the second pass over turf. First pass doesn't do alot.

I recommend killing everything with roundup before plowing or tilling. I didn't and my new bermuda has lots of johnson grass and weeds in it.

 

[Birdhunter1]

Brad, The dam of your pond isn't going to be too steep but if you get the ground worked up to fine it will wash and leve great ditches like the ones you filled last winter. I would get a disk and disk it across the hill and get it smooth but not like a flower bed. Afterwards take a harrow over it to smooth it out and you should be good to go. Think about it, are you wanting it to be like the front lawn or mowable. Also for the yard, irs fairly open so you should be fine with a disc and harrow. Rent the tiller if you need it but I wouldn't use it on the dam of your pond. P.S. keep that dern fescue out of it.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree.. multi-disc passes are needed for 'virgin' soil.. and smaller disc's.

Same when i had my nh 1920, and 6' disc... took me 4 passes to get something acceptable.

Soundguy

 

[California]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( multi-disc passes are needed for 'virgin' soil.. and smaller disc's. )</font>

Would it work better to use the box blade's rippers for a first pass?

(I mean in general, it probably wouldn't be a good idea in this case on a slope.)

 

[Soundguy]

I've ripped up areas with the box blade prior to other work.. couldn't hurt if it is hard packed soil.

Some use a turning plow or chisle plow... ( and then disc )

Soundguy

 

[jmc]

"P.S. keep that dern fescue out of it. <font color="blue"> </font>"

Birdhunter, why is that?

John

 

[MicroPilot]

It's bad for livestock and wildlife. See the article Fescue Eradication .

 

[jmc]

Thanks. The salesman at my Farm Coop recommended fescue 31 for grass in marginal soil and no sprinkling or fertilizer required. Said the highway dept uses it along the roads for durability and low effort. Warned me about livestock but that's not a factor here. Planted 25 lbs around the barn and still have a half bag left...

 

[Soundguy]

Does he have tall fescue or short fescue?

So far the only toxicosis problems I've seen reported are from the fungus infected tall fescue's... ( any info ont he short variety? )

Soundguy

 

[dixiedrifter]

Fescue toxicosis is caused by a type of fungus called an endophyte.

It can cause problems with horses, specifically pregnant mares. In cattle, it will reduce your average daily gain.

There are endophyte free varieties of fescue, as well as non-toxic endophyte. Problem is with the non-toxic stuff, its easy to get infected with the toxic from what I understand.

Fescue does have its place. Makes decent hay, and is great for stockpiling for late fall/early winter feed.

 

[Typhoon]

I will be posting pictures in the near future of the whole pond project. It is turning out to be a 4 acre pond (initially was going to be 3.2). Its a big project, and I have a lot of pictures. Like 4 rolls, so I will post all of them. I got some great experience along the way running a Cat D5 Dozer. I logged probably 10 hours or so on it. Alot of fun. The dam is much bigger than I expected it to look. Its 12,000 cu.yds, 27 ft from base to top. 4:1 slope on the back side for ease of mowing. We are getting ready to install the spillway pipe this next monday. It is 10" schedule 40 PVC. 100 ft long. Should be fun. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[avclay]

I have a similar project as Typhoon. I'm expanding an existing pond since the dam blew out this spring with all the heavy rain. Most of the pond was heavily wooded and I'm currently clearing the trees (1910 does an awsome job of pulling and stuffing trees!). The next step is having my neighbor and his bulldozer get as close to "virgin" soil as possible, along with stump removal. Then we will then bring in an excavator to dig out all the sludge on the bottom of the pond and expand the size.
After all that I plan to plant grass. Since I'm thinking most of the area will be pretty dug up I can just box scrape it smooth to final grade, york rake it, and then, if money allows, go with a power rake? Any suggestions / ideas before I get too far into this? Also been thinking about combining grass seed and some sort of "biolage" or the other seed that grows stuff that deer like - good or bad idea?
I know this gets off the disk topic but the discussion seemed to be flowing pretty well. I guess I could ask if the money to rent a power rake would be better spent on a set of disks?

 

[Soundguy]

Yeah.. I saw all that on the various agg sites. And the reason I ask.. is.. if it is short fescue.. he may be 'set' I saw no mnetion of the short fescue with problems on any of the sites. I also sss many pasture grass seed mixtures including fescue as one of the seed mixes..

Soundguy

 

[Birdhunter1]

jmc: I am a big quail hunter and fescue is not good for quail, since I know typhoon I always give him grief at the mention of fescue.

 

[Phred]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It can cause problems with horses, specifically pregnant mares. In cattle, it will reduce your average daily gain. )</font>

Yes but studies have shown that a mix of fescue and clover is not as bad as pure fescue. Very few people have very pure fescue. Most intentionally mix in some clover.

Also keep in mind that a very large number of cattle in this country eat large amounts of fescue. Would they gain better on alfalfa? Sure, but they do just fine on fescue.

If you can grow it bermuda, or timothy with a clover mix would be better. But in some places were the soil is acidic fescue is better than nothing.

Fred