Disc for Kubota M5040

/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #1  

bossgobbler

New member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
20
Location
Southeast Ohio
Tractor
Kubota
Good afternoon! I am looking into buying a disc for my Kubuta M5040. I will need it mainly for food plot prep on our land and a few other farms around our area. We live in southeast Ohio with a mix of flat ground and hills. I don't have much of a farming background beyond some food plots and talking with other farmers. I have a few questions about size and price. I will just give them in a list style. Any help that you would be willing to give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Tractor is about 4,000lbs. I have loaded rear tires which helps add some weight. I also have an la1153 front end loader. With that added weight I would assume it weighs somewhere around 7,000lbs(someone else may know)
It is 4x4 and 50hp with r4 tires

I want to be able to pull it nicely through smaller and larger plots. The smallest being 1/8 acre and the largest being 2-3 acres and maybe the occasional 5 acres, although that will be rare.

As far as budget: I want something that will get the job done but doesn't run the bill up too much. I doubt new is a good option. I am just looking into these right now but want to buy one fairly quickly. I am buying a rotary cutter, disc/tiller, cultipacker, and maybe plow.

Questions:

What size disc would be appropriate? Please give width and actual disc size.(keep in mind maneuverability in food plots)

I am right in assuming I want a 3pt type disc?

Benefits or concerns with a disc vs a 3pt tiller?

Will a plow be beneficial before using the disc? Some ground has never been worked, others have been.

If I need a plow, what size?

I will someday probably own both a disc and a tiller but right now I can't buy everything.

Try to give me a size and average cost of a usable, used disc, plow, cultipacker, 6' rotary cutter.

I know that's a lot of reading and many questions. Sorry! Thanks for your help!

Tyler
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #2  
I have one laying around ( disc pull behind ) used once and its labled indicating its designed for a tractor having 30 hp or more. guessing hp of tractor is the defining element.. BTY if you bought one what did it cost???
I'm thinking on getting rid of mine and would know what to expect would be a reasonable price.
TKS NOSPELL
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #3  
I AM IN THE PRCESS OF REVISING THIS THREAD. SORRY, NO PICUTURES UNTIL I POST REVISION IN A FEW DAYS.


DISC HARROW SELECTION For 18-45 HP Tractors (Release 2b)

Disc Harrows come in numerous types. However, for 18-45 horsepower tractors the three point hitch mounted, Tandem Disc Harrow, secondary tillage implement is ubiquitous.

Tandem Disc Harrows are manufactured in two structural types: Angle Iron Frame and Box Frame. Box Frame Disc Harrows are stronger, heavier, have greater adjustability of the gang angles and are less prone to working loose than Angle-Iron Frame Disc Harrows. If the budget allows, purchase a Box Frame Disc Harrow.

February 28, 2013 I took delivery of a Howse, box-frame, 3-Pt. disc harrow, Model DLHT16822B, from my local Kubota/Howse dealer. The dealer, from who I bought my tractor, recommended the Howse DLHT. At the time I was researching Disc Harrows from Land Pride, Everything Attachments (ETA), TSC/Countyline and Monroe Tufline

Howse describes the DLHT series as MEDIUM DUTY. Howse DLHT is a 16/18 Disc Harrow, meaning 16 discs, each 18" in diameter, spaced 9-1/2" apart. It cuts a swath nominally 5'-6" in width, adjustable by sliding the disc hangers in or out. The Howse DLHT16822B weighs 587 pounds. It has a 1" axle on sealed flange bearings. (There is a T-B-N consensus that to cut vegetation Disc Harrows should have 40+ pounds weighting each disc. My Howse has 37 pounds weight per disc; at times I wish for a bit more weight.)

Howse sells DHT Series HEAVY DUTY Disc Harrows, with 20" discs and 1-1/8" axles, in 16/20 and 20/20 configurations.

My primary Disc Harrow objectives involve CUTTING; opening new game feed plots, maintaining vegetation free fire breaks and vegetation control along woodland trails. Harrow weight on 16 discs, rather than 20 discs, puts more cutting weight on each disc.

Tractor users with SMOOTHING (plow furrows) as their priority should consider the 20/18 (7-1/2" between discs) or 20/20 configuration.

Disc Harrows are available with two types of discs: notched and smooth. Notched discs cut pasture grass and crop stubble better; in open soil notched blades jerk out trash, meaning vines and tree roots, which stick in the notches. Notched discs deform easier than solid/smooth discs working rocky soil. Thicker discs, if notched, are less prone to deform in rocky soil than thinner notched discs.

Smooth discs ride over some vegetation that notched discs will cut through.

Standard configuration for Howse Disc Harrows is notched discs front, notched discs rear.

((Synonyms for individual discs: wheels or pans.))

Discs for compact tractor harrows come in 16"-18"-20"-22" diameter. Generally speaking sub-compact tractors will use 16" diameter notched discs, mid-size compacts 18" diameter notched discs.

Forty (plus) horsepower utility tractors may opt for heavier 20" or 22" discs, sometimes notched discs on the front gang and smooth discs on the rear gang. The three point hitch Top Link is used to adjust relative front/rear gang pressure on soil. Longer Top Link: more soil pressure from rear gang. Shorter Top Link, more soil pressure from front gang.

Issues with disc diameter are concavity, wear, harrow weight and clearance lift. Smaller diameter discs generally have less concavity (less "float") than larger discs, so they theoretically penetrate easier; smaller discs are thinner/sharper than larger diameter discs. Larger diameter discs generally have greater concavity, so move more soil laterally. Larger diameter, thicker discs wear longer before requiring replacement. Larger diameter, thicker discs add to harrow weight, which offsets "float", improving penetration.

Replacement 18 inch discs are available in 3mm, 3.5mm, and 4mm thickness. Replacement 20 inch discs are available in 3.5mm, 4mm, 4.5mm, 4.76mm, 5mm and 6.35mm thickness. As shown, diameters and thickness overlap. Thicker discs are heavier. (Agri-Supply offers 516 individual disc types on its web site.)

Discs of larger diameter require more lift from the three point hitch. Clearance can be an issue when crossing ditches, rough ground and loading or unloading a tractor mounted Disc Harrow from a trailer.

My Howse has a dropped double clevis (Photo #11) to receive draw pins. A dropped clevis is desirable on a Disc Harrow for an 18-38 horsepower tractor; it allows the 3-Pt. to lift the harrow earlier. Note pictures showing my Howse in the air. Minimum disc height above ground is 14-1/2", greater than 14" ground clearance of my B3300SU tractor.

I prefer a wide double clevis, which accepts separate draw pins, to protruding, frame-mounted "open" draw pins. The double clevis provides a stronger tractor/harrow connection, which distributes draft strain. TSC Countyline by Tarter, 84 Disc Harrow, suitable for a tractor larger than mine, has "open" draw pins protruding from the harrow frame; in a "normal", undropped position. The Land Pride DH1560/60 has dropped "open" draw pins. Wider Land Pride Disc Harrows have preferred double clevis standard.

The Howse, with its 3" wide, dropped, double clevis is the easiest implement I own to mount on the three point hitch.

Most Disc Harrows provide gang angle adjustment via clamp plates and adjustment holes in the frame. Clamp plate adjustment is simple, strong and inexpensive to manufacture but time consuming to adjust in the field. While the need to change gang angles will vary by user, adjustment is NOT an everyday event for me.

My Howse has five adjustment holes in the frame per gang, some brands have four.

Clamp plate adjustment works via three through bolts/nuts per gang, clamping twinned upper and lower adjustment plates, which have a pair of rib guides on the top plate mirrored by a pair of rib guides on the bottom plate. To adjust one gang angle, the two outer bolts/nuts are loosened with a wrench, the center bolt, which passes through adjustment holes in the frame, is removed, then the gang is pulled and jiggled to line up holes in sliding adjustment plates with alternate holes in harrow frame, using gang length for leverage. The center bolt is replaced and all three bolts/nuts tightened with the wrench. Repeat for the second gang. {Loosening/replacing bolts/nuts is a 15 - 20 minute process.} I have applied wax lube to the harrow frame over which the adjustment plates slide. New, it adjusts easily. I understand with paint abrasion, rust, dust, deformity, etc., gang adjustment becomes harder. However, I will settle on a 'default' gang angle setting soon and only change gang angles occasionally thereafter.

Some TBN threads suggest substituting a 5" pin as a pivot, in lieu of the center bolt. With only a center pin, it seems possible the center support could "jump" the guides under load; stay with the center bolt and nut.

Three Disc Harrows could be accurately described as HEAVY DUTY, by design and by weight. All adjust gang angles more readily than the Howse friction plate system but you pay for that convenience.

Everything Attachment's ETA-XD-BF-DH-16-18 disc harrow weighs 686 pounds (43 pounds/disc) and is priced at $1554 delivered to Fanning Springs, North Florida. The ETA disc has two, long, gang adjustment screws, one on each gang, to adjust the gang angle of attack. I admired ETA disc at the 2012 Sunbelt Ag Expo in Georgia. Leinbach box-frame disc harrows use an identical screw adjustment.

Monroe Tufline's THE71618BF disc harrow (1-1/8" axle) weighs 670 pounds (42 pounds per disc) and was quoted at $2100, plus a local delivery charge. The Tufline claims lever adjustment of the gang angles. I researched the Tufline 'THE' discs on Tufline's very basic web site. I have not seen a Tufline live but the Tufline brand enjoys an excellent reputation.

Brown Manufacturing Corp., Ozark, AL, produces the BDH-600-1620 Disc Harrow (1-1/8 axle), 6'-4" width, 1095 pounds (68 pounds per disc!) with lever gang angle adjustment priced at $2535 FOB factory. I researched Brown's BDH Disc Harrow on Brown Manufacturing´s web site.

Price is not the first priority when I purchase attachments. However, my Florida rock free, sandy-loam is not challenging to disc so I bought the Howse DLHT as adequate and a good value. I paid $950 delivered. (No sales tax in Florida on ag or forestry equipment.)

Pulling a Disc Harrow is high draft force work. Not only is the implement weight being pulled, but the discs are resisting passage through the soil, proportionate to gang angle adjustment. Box frame Disc Harrows require minimum five tractor horsepower per foot of width, plus four-wheel drive for traction. To optimize soil mixing a Disc Harrow must be pulled at a brisk pace.

I pull the Howse behind a Kubota B3300SU tractor/loader. ( 33-hp / 1,900 pounds / 4-WD / 58" tire width ) Tractor and Howse 587- pound Disc Harrow are well paired.

The B3300SU is in HST/MED range pulling the Howse. In repeatedly cut soil, in which the Disc Harrow will sink deep, additional throttle is required to keep the B3300SU from bogging down. Infrequently, I need to lift the Harrow just a tad. Adjusting gang angles to a less aggressive setting will reduce draft force.

Disc Harrows are frequently used to prepare game food plots. For food plot preparation, where you will maneuver between trees and boulders and work on slopes, buy a disc no wider than your tractor's rear tires. Anything wider and the tractor will pass through gaps but the disc will "hang up" and you will waste time extricating tractor+harrow combination, possibly banging up the tractor in the process. It is important to buy a heavy enough Disc Harrow; it is rarely practical to make a second pass over food plot ground.

It is important to tighten the four axle nuts regularly on a new disc harrow; they loosen. If the four axle nuts are tightened regularly the entire gang assembly will settle-in eventually and thereafter axle nuts require tightening infrequently. If axle bolts are not kept tight, disc hubs and axles will work each other, ruining one or both.

A test for tightness involves "ringing" the discs with a mallet when the harrow is elevated. A loose disc will give off a flat tone.

Howse offers its harrows in Kubota orange paint. Thank you, Howse. Standard Howse color is red.

Two complaints: No operator's manual with the Howse. I like manuals. Photo #10: When adjusting the rear gang I found the left clamp bolt to be 4-1/2" long, instead of 5" like the other five clamp/adjusting bolts. Sloppy assembly. So I drove 20 miles/round trip to Tractor Supply for a $3.52, 5" replacement bolt. I have added upper/lower flat washers to six gang angle adjustment bolts to preserve the paint.

HOWSE LINKS 16/18; 16/20:

https://store.howseimplement.com/in...en/disc-harrow-16-18-blades-w-ball-brg-1.html

https://store.howseimplement.com/in...t_en/disc-harrow-16-20-blades-w-ball-brg.html
 
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/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #4  
I am looking into buying a disc for my Kubuta M5040. Nice tractor. I be jealous.

I will need it mainly for food plot prep on our land and a few other farms around our area. We live in southeast Ohio with a mix of flat ground and hills.

Tractor is 4x4 and 50hp with r4 tires

As far as budget: I want something that will get the job done but doesn't run the bill up too much. I doubt new is a good option. I am just looking into these right now but want to buy one fairly quickly. I am buying a rotary cutter, disc/tiller, cultipacker, and maybe plow.

Questions:

I am right in assuming I want a 3pt type disc? YES. Pull Disc Harrows much less maneuverable, harder to transport between plots.

Benefits or concerns with a disc vs a 3pt tiller? Disc more rugged, faster, "enough". Plot seeds are eager germinators.

Will a plow be beneficial before using the disc? Some ground has never been worked, others have been. YES.

But if you have a heavy enough Disc Harrow it will suffice. Plowing a hillside, one tire down in a furrow, is NOT for the inexperienced.


If I need a plow, what size? Spend your money on a Cultipacker, not a plow.

I will someday probably own both a disc and a tiller but right now I can't buy everything. Who can?

Try to give me a size and average cost of a used disc. Howse is pretty cheap NEW.

I know that's a lot of reading and many questions. We volunteer here to help.
 
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/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #5  
. . . Pull Disc Harrows much less maneuverable, harder to transport between plots. . . .

The part about being harder to transport only applies to the drag type, not the pull-type ones that have gauge wheels and tires on a rockshaft that raises and lowers the tires. The latter type is easy to transport between plots and are typically heavier and, therefore, plow better. That type, however, is less maneuverable than a 3 point mounted one.
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #6  
Depending on whether you already have the other -non disc attachments...

After buying a used tandem 20 disc harrow- 10 round and 10 notched - and even with weighting the disc, I was unable to break up some of our fields.
decided to get something to open the field up- a JD 3 bottom plow and repaired a free broken tiller I had been using for 3 point weight.

If you have fallow , tough soils- may not be able to disc the field to satisfaction... Which is what happened to me.
If the soil has been turned in the last few years, then you may be fine with just a disc.

If just starting out and I could only have one of the 3 (plow, disc or tiller) It would be a tiller because it can work even a field that hasn't been touched in 30 years into powder if necessary- as long as the tractor has low enough gears and enough pto power. Pretty sure the Kubota M5040 is more than capable.

If you are going to have all 3 then I would try the disc first- if it won't begin to turn the soil in 2 passes, I would switch to the 3 point plow and then go back to the disc, or you can till and then disc if you want. In tight or small areas the tiller is VERY hard to beat and you can always till or disc once the surface has been opened up. I haven't owned a cultipacker , but they sound like they would be very handy...
not sure if this helps

Good Luck
As for as the discs -Jeff had lots of good information -and I am sure there are other TBNers with all of the field implements and more experience than me, hopefully more people will jump in with some more information...
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate the advice and knowledge you have shared. Do you think a 3pt disc about 6'-7' would be ample? What if I disced the ground with that after I plowed the ground? I am looking at a few Used discs that have 16" discs. I'm still trying to figure this all out. Sometimes the more I read and think, the more confused I get! I love the idea of a brand new 6' landpride tiller from a local dealer but the cost is high. I'm sure it's worth the money, but right now it's just not smart for me and my family. Anymore thoughts or recommendations? Thanks again!
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #8  
I have a 4900 that I use for food plots. I disc up about 7-8 acres per year.

I have a 3 point 6.5' Monroe-tufline with 22" discs that weighs 850 pounds. It does pretty good but it isn't enough weight to cut through sod. It takes 4-5 passes. If I had to do it again I would get a 8' pull behind and a rotary tiller.
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #9  
I have a Kubota L5740 and I have a 6' disc and a 6' tiller.

I use both for my business, and for food plots. We plant about 20 acres of food plots per year on my deer lease.

I would NEVER use the tiller on our food plots. In my opinion, the tiller will do a good job, but it is a much higher maintenance attachment. And, we have some stumps in our food plots that would destroy my tiller if I hit them. I would think that if you have rocks or stumps in your food plots, they could destroy a tiller too. My tiller is used to prepare athletic fields for renovation.

The soil on our food plots is fairly sandy, so the disc does a good enough job. And, we till/plant every year, so the soil has been worked every year for the past 5 years. On new plots that have not been tilled in a few years, you would probably need to disc it 4-6 times to get it into shape.

I would suggest spraying food plots with Roundup herbicide at least 4-6 weeks before you plan to disc them and they will work up a lot easier.
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #10  
LeadPoison: I have a 3 point 6.5' Monroe-tufline with 22" discs that weighs 850 pounds. I disc up 7-8 acres per year.

Notched discs or smooth discs on that Beast?

I keep asking T-B-N participants how the lever adjustment of gang angles works on Tufline discs so I can make Post #3 more informative and accurate. No replies of yet.

How about some comment? How about pictures of the lever adjust mechanism, when you have time?

I JUST COMPLETED A GOOGLE SEARCH OF T-B-N ARCHIVES. THERE IS NOTHING ON LEVER ADJUSTMENT OF GANG ANGLES ON TUFLINE DISC HARROWS.




Monroe Tufline's THE71618BF disc harrow (1-1/8" axle) weighs 670 pounds (42 pounds per disc) and was quoted at $2100, plus a local delivery charge. The Tufline claims lever adjustment of the gang angles. I researched the Tufline 'THE' discs on Tufline's very basic web site. I have not seen a Tufline live but the Tufline brand enjoys an excellent reputation.
 
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/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #11  
I have the notched blades.

Here is a pic from website. I don't know about lever adjustment, but I simply pull a pin and slide the gangs to the desired angle and reinsert the pin.

Here's a picture from their site:
 

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/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #12  
Take the guy's advice, don't plow! It makes a very uneven seedbed and is hard to even out. Just get a 6-8' disc and go to town with it. We have an m7040 and about a 7.5' disc and I've added two 55 gal barrels filled with water to the top and it digs in good even on new ground.
My plow is basically retired.
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #13  
Since you are looking to buy used and keep the cost down, just about anything decent will do. You can spend a lot of time fine tuning what you want, but with that much HP and 4x4, just about any 3pt disk will work. I have an angle iron one that I use twice a year. I bought it used on Craigslist for $300. After 8 years, I broke two discs planting my food plot for this years deer season and need to replace them before April when I plant my spring food plot.

If I had it to do all over again, I would prefer to have bought a bigger disk with a box frame, but I wonder if it would be worth the extra cost for something I use so little? I disk up half an acre. I've had four different food plots and my soil is hard clay. It takes many, many passes over it to get it to start to work, but then after awhile it happens, and the ground turns to powder. It's a wonderful feeling and something that I enjoy seeing happen.

For a food plot, you don't really need to disk down all that far, which means you don't need to have really large disks. Nothing that you will be planting will need more then an inch or two of soil over it, and most you can just broadcast and drag.

Ideally, hope to find an 8 foot, box frame, 3pt disk with lots of grease fittings. You have the power to handle it. I wouldn't go any smaller then six foot, you'll just wish you had a bigger one every time you use it. Since this is just for a food plot, all you want to do is turn over the ground. It's not farming, it's not gardening, it's just turning over the dirt.

Watch Craigslist, do a state wide search on Craigslist, check ebay, look on your local classifieds, go to local auctions and google what you are looking for in your area. I've found that when I need something, I often find it in a few months of online searching for a good price.

Eddie



Eddie
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #14  
Tyler
I use a Kubota L4240 on my food plots. My soil is hard and rocky. I had a Woods rototiller but using it in the soil I have was abusive to the machines and to me. I use a Howse 12" two bottom plow(depending on your soil you could probably pull a 14" or 16") and a 7' box frame disc. I find it quicker to plow and disc than to try with the disc alone. The disc I use is from Tractor Supply and I would check their prices before buying used. Some of their stores sell County Line others King Kutter. I've used them both and they work, but I used the heavy or box frame models. I'd recommend you get a disc large enough to cover your wheel tracks and small enough to maneuver in your plots. I also use a smaller tractor and a 4' lawn roller in place of a cultipacker, but when the roller's ready to be replaced I'll get a packer. I plant about 5 acres of plots ranging in size from 1/4 acre to 1 acre.
Barney
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks again to anyone that has chipped in to help with my decision. I still have not purchased a disc, plow, or tiller. I'm still trying to decide what route I want to go. Is the general consensus that a disc, or disc & plow combination would be adequate for food plot work? I still am getting feedback that a tiller with no disc or plow is better, and others are saying a disc is plenty. I could wait till late summer to do any ground work and just buy a tiller then. I will be able to save some money to buy a nice tiller. If a disc and plow are plenty though, I would like to get them now so that I can get the ground worked up and limed so the plots are ready for fall food plots.We have some topsoil but it turns to clay not very deep from the surface. Can anyone toss out some estimated prices of what I should expect to pay for a new 6 foot tiller, a used 6'-7' 3pt disc, used 2 bottom plow, and a nice used 8' cultipacker? I appreciate the help! Thanks again!
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #16  
I have a 7ft,3pt disc I used with my old M5040 and I didn't like having to make the several passes,so got a 74" tiller,tractor handles both no problem. If I had a place where may have hidden objects,the disc is the way to go. But if you know your place and its free of objects the tiller to me is hands down better and quicker. I haven't seen any difference from using the disc over the tiller on how good my plots yields but running the disc several passes,i would have to drag my 12ft chain harrow to level,so can run my 12ft roller,to get a nice level plot,not the tiller for my place one pass, bed is ready for seed and nice and level. However the bed gets ready,i find it just as important to get the seed covered and packed down,it makes a big difference in how mine turn out.
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #17  
Although I am sure my soil is completely different from Texas soil, I completely agree with what foreman Etexas said. I have tried most every way to prepare my seed beds: plowing followed by disking, just disking, just tilling, tilling then disking. I have settled on tilling followed by one pass with the disc. I tried planting a freshly tilled piece with clover one year and almost nothing came up because the soil was too loose for the seed. One pass with the disk makes rototilled soil just right here. Then I drill and roll, rolling being the most important part. I would like to get something like a nice big solid stand seeder. I think that would be perfect behind a rototiller. My $0.02.
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #18  
Thanks again to anyone that has chipped in to help with my decision. I still have not purchased a disc, plow, or tiller. I'm still trying to decide what route I want to go. Is the general consensus that a disc, or disc & plow combination would be adequate for food plot work? I still am getting feedback that a tiller with no disc or plow is better, and others are saying a disc is plenty. I could wait till late summer to do any ground work and just buy a tiller then. I will be able to save some money to buy a nice tiller. If a disc and plow are plenty though, I would like to get them now so that I can get the ground worked up and limed so the plots are ready for fall food plots.We have some topsoil but it turns to clay not very deep from the surface. Can anyone toss out some estimated prices of what I should expect to pay for a new 6 foot tiller, a used 6'-7' 3pt disc, used 2 bottom plow, and a nice used 8' cultipacker? I appreciate the help! Thanks again!

Looks like most guys are saying to go with a tiller. I recently priced a 74" heavy duty Korean made tiller and it was $2500. I will trade my 74" Bush Hog brand tiller on the new Korean unit. The dealer has offered me $1000 for my used one.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I would recommend going with a 6-7' disc for your food plots. Here are my reasons why. If you have lots of vegetation on the plots, the tiller will become clogged with that vegetation. If you have any rocks, stumps, tree branches, etc. in your plots, the tiller will find them and all **** will break loose.

If you know your plots are clean, you can probably get away with the tiller. And I agree that it will do a better job in less passes than a disc. In my case, I'm not willing to take the chance of damaging my tiller in a food plot. It's a lot easier and cheaper to repair a disc, than a tiller.

My tiller is used for tilling athletic fields, where there is little chance of hitting something that will damage my tiller, but it has happened......
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040
  • Thread Starter
#19  
When you are talking about unexpected or expected things in the food plot that might damage a tiller, how big of things are we talking? I know some of the areas have small saplings and root systems throughout. stumps are probably minimal. Branches and surface rocks can be removed. Unseen rocks could be a problem I guess but for the most part our soil isn't rocky. If I cut a few saplings out would you guys be worried that a small stump(maybe 1"-2"-3") would be bad on a tiller? I looked at 6' landpride tiller new for $2800. Is that reasonable? A 6-7' disc was used for $500. The disc seems nice and heavy but I don't know what to compare it to. 8' cultipacker for around $400. Any input on those prices?
 
/ Disc for Kubota M5040 #20  
Can always get the disc now and after awhile you will have the stumps and everything cleared and get the tiller later. I will still use my disc when planting areas just cleaned up with dozer, the tiller is pretty tough but just not worth the chance tearing it up,until I know the area is good...
tractors%20ready%20to%20plant.jpgBillyP%20food%20plot1.jpgBillyP%20food%20plot2.jpg

My tiller is a 74" TerraForce was $1750
 
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